D L 

40? 



I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 1 



I UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. | 

cii ^ ie. ^ . ** ^'♦>.4*- -.■»>^»v./«N. <i^<ib»^ it^i^ ^ l& *»1 



s 



ROAD-BOOK 
TOUKISTS IN NOEWAY. 

WITH 

HINTS TO ENOLISH SPORTSMEN 
AND ANGLERS. 

t/'' 

Bt THOMAS FOEESTEE. Esq.. 

AUTHOE OF 

''NORWAY IN 1848 AND 1849." 




LONDOI^: 

HENRY G. BOHN, YORK STREET, COVEOT GARDEN. 

1854. 



PRINTED BY HARRISOI^ AND SONS, 
iONDON GAZETTE OFFICE, ST. MARTIN'S LANB. 



PREFACE. 



This little work has been undertaken in compliance 
with representations from well-informed quarters^ that 
a compendious Road-Book for tourists in Norway^ con- 
fined exclusively to that part of Scandinavia^ is still a 
desideratum. Having been printed as a supplement to 
Norway and its Scenery/^ in a recent number of 
Bohn^s Illustrated Library^ it is now republished in a 
portable form for the convenience of travellers^ prefixed 
by an introductory chapter from the former work j 
conta;ining practical suggestions for their guidance. 

A popular writer lately remarked that the general 
error of works of this description is^ that they contain 
too much^ and are too large/^ and points out the desir- 
ableness of having little portable guide-books^ made 
like pocket-books^ so as not to overcrowd the traveller's 
pockety and make it stick out as if it held a boiled round 
of beef.'^^ When these judicious observations were 
pubhshed the present work had been already framed on 
the plan proposed_, the author's own experience ha\dng 
long ago suggested its convenience^ particularly to 
travellers in such a country as Norway- 

The Road-Book;, however^ though expressly in- 
tended for the tourist's side-pockety Avill be found to 
contain all needful information^ some pains having been 
taken to procure it from every available source^ as well 
to compress it into the smallest compass. In a pre- 
liminary section a choice of routes is offered^ embracing 

* Household Words, quoted in the Times of November^ 1852. 



vi 



PREFACE. 



the most interesting features of the country in one con- 
tinuous tom% without returning over the same ground. 
In the course of the work the facilities for reaching 
Norway by the present arrangements of the steam- 
boats are pointed out^ as well as those offered to the 
tourist by a new Norwegian railway^ and by the steam- 
boats on the inland waters. The times of their depar- 
ture^ and the places at which they call^ as well as those 
of the steam-boats round the coast^ are inserted from 
the latest tables. The stations on the several routes 
have also been thus corrected^ and the alterations 
recently made in the regulations for travelling post^ 
and in the rates of payment for post-horses and boat- 
men^ are also mentioned. A short vocabulary of Norsk 
words and phrases-added^ and a section devoted to the 
sports which attract many of our countrymen to the 
rivers and lakes^ the fields and fjords^ of Norway. 

The traveller is requested to correct the statements 
in the introductory chapter as to the rates of payment 
for posting and boats^ and the regulations of the Skyds- 
Law, by those given in Section IV. of the Road-Book, 
which contains the latest account of the alterations. 



NOTICE TO TRAVELLERS. 



CHRISTIANIA RAILWAY. 

This Railway is now open as far as Dahl. The following Table gives 
the stations, with the time of departure and arrival of the trains at each 
station. At present there is only one train daily each way : 



Down Tkains. li. m. 

From Christiana 8 ^ 

Grorud 8 55 

Stiommen 9 

Frogner , 9 30 

Kloften 10 

Frogstad 10 80 

Dahl 11 15 



Up Trains. h. m. 

From Dahl 13 a.m. 

„ Frogstad 13 45 

„ Kloften 1 20 „ 

„ Frogner 1 40 „ 

„ Strommen 2 15 „ 

„ Grorud 2 40 „ 

„ Christiana 3 20 „ 



The fares throughout are, 1st Class, 110 skillings (4 marks, 14 sk. ); 
the 2nd, 76 skillings (3 marks, 4 sk.); the 3rd, 34 skillings (1 mark, 
10 sk). ^ 

Dahl is about 6 English miles from the terminus at Eidsvold. The 
railway will be opened throughout in the month of August, of the 
present year. For routes to the interior, by Eidsvold and Minde, see 
pp. 342, 393, 398. 

The steamboats to Christiansand and Christiania now run weekly, 
leaving Hull on every Friday evening, after nine o'clock. There is also 
a weekly communication from London, by way of Gothenburgh. For 
further particulars see p. 416, and enquire at the Offices of the Company 
there referred to. 



May, 1854. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

Inteoductort Chapter 45—84 

Section I. 

Choice of Tours : — I. 1. Short tour in the south- western 
districts, including the Telemarken and Rjukan-Foss. — 2. Tour 
to the western Fjords and Bergen. — II. 1. Tour in the central 
districts, including the Hardanger and Sogne-Fjords. — 2. Ex- 
cursions from Ljerdals-oren. — III. 1. Continuation of tour to 
Trondhjem. — 2. Excursion from Molde to Romsdalen. — IV. 
Northern tours : to the Namsen and Alten rivers ; to Ham- 
merfest and the North Cape. — ^V. 1. Tour to Romsdalen from 
Christiania, joining that suggested in the west and south. — 2. 
Excursion to the Mjosen-Vand. — 3. To the Tyri-Fjord and 
Rands-Fjord. — 4. To Roraas, and the Swedish frontier. — 5. To 
places in the eastern districts 335 — 344 

Section II.— THE ROUTES. 

I. Christiansand to Stavanger and Bergen 345 

II. Christiansand to the Hardanger and Bergen, by Saeters- 

dalen 349 

III. Christiansand, by Arendal, to the Telemarken and Rjukan- 

Foss 353 

IV. Christiansand, by Skien and the Telemarken, to Bergen 356 

Branches from Route 4 :— 

1. Excursion in Telemarken ... ... ... ... 359 

2. Excursion to the Kujkan-Foss 361 

1. Continuation of Route lY. : — 

3. From the Rjukan-Foss, over the Hardanger, to 

Odde and Bergen ... ... ... ... ... 364 

2. Continuation of Route IV. : — 

4. From the Rjukan-Foss to Eid-Fjord and the Voring- 

Foss 366 



CONTENTS. 

Route Page 

V. Odde, on the Vor-Fjord, to Bergen 367 

VI. Vossevangen to Lierdals-oren 372 

VII. Eidfjord, by Urland, to Lierdals-oren 373 

VIII. Excursions from Lierdals-oren : — 

1. To the Voring-Foss and Hardanger ... 374 

2. To the Justedal 374 

3. On the Aardals-Fjord 375 

4. To the Horungurne... ... 376 

Continuation of Koute VIIL : — 

From Fortun over the Fjeld to Laurgaard on the Dovre- 

Fjeld road ... 376 

IX. Lierdals-oren to Drammen and Christiania 378 

X. Bergen to Molde 380 

XI. Molde to Trondhjem 383 

XII. Trondhjem to the Namsen-Elv and Fiskum-Foss ... 384 

XIII. Trondhjem to Hammerfest 386 

XIV. Hammerfest to the North Cape ... ... 389 

XV. Christiania by Drammen, to the Ejukan-Foss 390 

XVI. Christiania to Bergen, over the Fille-Fjeld 393 

Christiania to Bergen by Hallingdal, see Route IX. 
XVIT. Christiania to Trondhjem, by the Mjosen and the Dovre- 

Fjeld 398 

XVIII. Christiania to Lillehammer, by west bank of the Mjosen 403 

XIX. Christiania to Lillehammers by east bank of the Mjosen 404 

XX. Christiania to Trondhjem by the Glommen and Roraas... 405 

XXI. Christiania to Molde, by Romsdalen ... ... ... 408 

XXII. Christiania to Kongsvinger and the Swedish frontier ... 410 

XXIII. Kongsvinger to Roraas and Trondhjem ... 411 

XXIV. Christiania to Laurvig and Porsgrund 411 

XXV. Christiania to Drobak Moss, and Frederikstad ... ... 413 

XXVL Christiania to Frederikshald and Swinesund 414 

Section III— ROUTES BY STEAM-BOATS. 

I. Direct from England 416 

II. Hamburgh, Christiansand, and Bergen 416 

m. Copenhagen, Gothenburg, and Christiania 416 



COXTE^^TS. 

Route Page 

IV. Keil, in Holstein and Christiania ... ... ... ... 417 

y. Christiania and Christiansand 417 

VI. Christiansand and Bergen 417 

VII. Bergen, Hammerfest, and the !N'orth Cape 417 

Table of Stations of the Steam-boats from Christiania 

to Hammerfest and the IN'orth Cape 418, 419, 420 

Section TV. 

Tables of rates of payment for horses and boats. — Skyds law. 

—Forbud tickets 421—426 ' 

Section V. 

The language. — Vocabulary of usetul words and phrases 427 — 433 
^section Yi. 



Hints to Sportsmen and Anglers : — 1. Shooting ; 2. Deer-stalk- 
ing ; 3. Animals of prey ; 4. Angling ; — Salmon-fishing ; 
Trout-fishing; Game-laws 439 — 449 



INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER, 



PEACTICAL SUGGESTIONS TO TEATELLEES INTENDING A TOTJE IN 
NOEWAY, 

Times are changed since tlie traveller^ bent on a sum- 
mer's excursion in Norway^ had to take the chance of 
a passage by some homeward-bound timber-ship^ redo- 
lent of salt-fish and tobacco-smoke^, and encountering 
the risk of delay from the easterly winds^ generally 
prevalent at that season of the year^ with the chance of 
a gale in the North Sea^ might think himself fortunate 
if he sighted the wished-for coast, half starved and 
almost sickened of his project, in the course of seven 
or eight days after he left the Thames. But this mode 
of transit has been sometimes adventured, and has its 
advantages for travellers wishing to land on the southern 
or western coast, without being carried some hundreds 
of miles beyond their mark, and being set down at 
Christiania to retrace their steps westward ; but they 
must be prepared to rough it during the uncertainties 
and inconveniences of such a voyage* 

The only other alternative, in former times, was the 
land-journey through Germany to the coast of the 
Baltic at Copenhagen, or to Gothenburgh in Sweden ; 
after which the narrow sea was crossed to Fredericks- 



46 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



vsern^ or if Gothenburgli was the point of arrival from 
the souths the route from thence to the frontier of 
Norway^ leading by the celebrated Falls of TroUhsettan^ 
was short and easily accomplished. It has been fol- 
lowed by many travellers^ and among others by the 
artist, Mr. Price. An intermediate course was at one 
time in fashion, — that of taking the steam-boat to 
Hamburgh, and making Kiel or Lubeck the point of 
departure for Christiania ; but this also involved a long 
and not very pleasant voyage through the North Sea. 
Within the last two years, however, arrangements, long 
in contemplation, for facilitating the intercourse be- 
tween England and Norway, have been completed, 
and a steamer direct to Christiania performs the voyage 
regularly during the season in about sixty hours. We 
understand that it is also in contemplation, that the 
steamer shall call at one of the ports on the southern 
coast, by which means the uncertainties of the sea- 
voyage encountered by some former travellers will be 
obviated. 

Further particulars will be given hereafter respecting 
this mode of proceeding to Norway, as well as in re- 
spect of that which we may call the overland journey,^^ 
it being the object of this chapter to convey practical 
and useful information to intending tourists in Norway. 

Let us commence ab ovo. We will suppose our reader 
to have conceived the idea of such an excursion. Con- 
siderations of health, curiosity, or amusement, in- 
duce him to go abroad for a season, perhaps he is not 
very particular where. A trip to Norway offers some- 
thing new, and out of the common track. He broods 



CAUTIONS TO TOURISTS. 



47 



upon tlie idea until it has grown into something like 
life and consistency. He wishes to realize it^ but wants 
the means of shaping it to his own views and circum- 
stances. There are minds^ indeed^ so constituted that 
the peculiar attractions of Norway leave no room for 
hesitation; but even these may benefit by the first 
piece of advice which we shall ofi*er^ which is one of 
caution. Travellers^ even on the great post-roads^ in 
Norway, must not expect to meet with the comfort and 
accommodation which are now to be found on fre- 
quented routes in other parts of the Continent of Eu- 
rope. In travelling post the service is admirably per- 
formed, as we shall have occasion to mention more 
particularly in a subsequent part of this chapter; but 
as the light carriages of the country are all open, and 
the ways are impracticable for any other description of 
vehicle, while even the great roads are carried over 
elevated passes of the mountains, where tempests of 
wind and rain are frequent at all seasons, and in some, 
more or less rain falls every day throughout the countiy, 
the traveller will be very fortunate if he escapes ex- 
treme inconvenience and suff*ering from cold and wet. 
Then again, the houses of entertainment are few and 
far between, not very tempting in their general arrange- 
ments, and as to the larder, the traveller may think 
himself lucky if it supplies a small dish of fish, swim- 
ming in butter, and some sodden potatoes ; indeed, he 
will often find nothing to appease the cravings of his 
hunger except black and sour rye bread, or husky flad 
brod, made of oatmeal, with butter, cheese, sour cream, 
and perhaps a glass of a high-fiavoured spirit^ called 



48 



NORWAY, AND ITS SCENERY. 



corn^brandy^ to wash it down. Gentlemen of the silver- 
fork school are not recommended to travel in Norway. 
Even if they combine with fastidious habits a taste for 
the grand and picturesque in natural scenery^ it may 
be gratified^ as every one knov/s^ at far less sacrifice 
of personal comfort^ by an excm^sion in Switzerland or 
Savoy. The traveller can roll over the Simplon or the 
Mont Cenis in a well-closed carriage. If he covets 
excitement^ and his enthusiasm prompts him to climb 
an alp or a glacier^ he is almost sure of finding a well- 
spread table d^hote, with agreeable society^ at the end of 
his day's expedition. The pure mountain air^ slight 
fatigue^ and fresh impressions of diversified scenery^ 
give zest to the entertainment, and so the traveller 
passes from day to day through the stereotyped stages 
of an Alpine tour. 

Nothing resembling this will be found in an excur- 
sion through Norway. Between Christiania and Bergen, 
or Drontheim, distances of between three and four 
hundred English miles, he will scarcely meet any 
English, and not above half a dozen native, travellers j 
and, as a natural consequence, there are not, even on 
these high roads, above two or three halting places, at 
which he will find either fare or accommodation beyond 
what has been already mentioned. However, the most 
fastidious in these matters may now be landed at Chris- 
tiania, after a short and pleasant voyage, without 
fatigue or hardship. They will find at the hotels there 
all that they can reasonably desire. Christiania is a 
dull place, particularly during the summer months, but 
short and most agreeable excursions may be made on 



MODES OF TRAVELLING. 



49 



its lovely Fjord^ and in its beautiful neiglibourliood. A 
railway is now in process of construction from Christi- 
ania^ for a distance of forty miles^ to Minde^ at the 
foot of the Miosen^ the scenery of which is charm- 
ing^ though it does not rise to the stern and mag- 
nificent character of that of other inland lakes. It can 
be ascended through its whole length of seventy miles 
by steamers, which ply daily upon it to the town of 
Lillehammer^ and are fitted out with much elegance^ 
supplying a good table and every other comfort. Thus^ 
when the railway is completed^ an excursion of some 
extent mhj be accomplished with great facility. As it 
will also materially shorten the distance by road to 
Eergen and to Drontheim^ even scrupulous travellers 
may be induced to screw up their courage to underga 
the inconveniences attending these longer journeys. 
Those cities are well worthy of a visits and in his long 
line of route the tourist will pass through many grand 
and many beautiful scenes. But the true character of 
the scenery of Norway^ and of its simple and well con- 
ditioned people^ can only be learnt by scaling its snowy 
Fjelds^ penetrating its secluded valleys^ and following 
the windings of its Fjords into the depths of the moun- 
tain ranges, by cross-roads and paths sometimes all 
but inaccessible even to the pedestrian traveller. Those, 
however, who are disposed to embark in such enter- 
prises, should well count before hand the cost of the 
undertaking. It will try the mettle of the most hardy, 
resolute, and enthusiastic lovers of nature in her 
wildest aspects. "We are confident that such as these 
will have no reason to regret the toils and privations 

E 



50 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



tliey may undergo in their lonely wanderings^, while we 
warn from such, enterprises all who would consider their 
pleasure dearly purchased by weary marches^ a meagre 
diet^ and very questionable lodgings. 

MAPS AKD BOOKS. 

But our main object is to clear the way for the general 
traveller^ and to tell him how much of, and how best^ 
he may achieve^ under ordinary circumstances^ the 
objects he has in view when he contemplates a tour in 
Norway. Firsts then^ he should procure a good map. 

Munches Kart over Norge^^ is the best^ and is indis- 
pensable to all travellers who propose to make their 
wayby chart and compass^ by Pjeld and Fjord^ over the 
untrodden paths of its remote districts. The ^^Veikart 
over Norge '^ of Galigorski and Wergeland^ is^ perhaps^ 
preferable for the ordinary traveller^ as a useful map of 
the post-roads. There is also a valuable map^ Geog- 
nostischen Karte von Norwegen^ von B. M. Keilhau/^ 
geologically coloured^ and containing contour lines of 
equal altitude. But these maps are constructed on 
a large scale^ and the details are apt to confuse those 
who do not possess a tolerably distinct knowledge of the 
geography of Norway. A smaller and more compre- 
hensive map is better suited for general purposes. 
ArrowsmitVs map is clear^ not overcrowded with names 
of places^ and^ as we have found,, generally accurate."''^- 

^ The foreign maps, which are decidedly the best, can be procured at 
Mr. Trelawny Saunders's, No. 6, Charing Cross, who will have them 
mounted to suit the tomist's particular plans and convenience. For rough 



MAPS AND BOOKS. 



51 



Witli some sucli map before Mm^ we would recommend 
tlie intending tourist to look to our former chapter for 
tlie notices it contains of the various routes taken by- 
former travellers in Norway. It forms a sort of index, 
not only to their works^ but to the principal objects 
which are likely to attract the tourist^s attention. With 
these aids he will be able to chalk out for himself the 
rough outlines of an excursion fitted to his time and 
inclinations; and if he wishes for further information, 
he will do well to consult such of the works, or that 
particular one, which may appear most likely to suit his 
purpose, regard being had to his own plans. As a general 
rule, we strongly recommend some settled scheme for 
the tour being formed in the first instance. All the 
necessary information for the tourist^s guidance can l)e 
obtained much better in this country than after he has 
commenced his journey; and if he expects to procure it 
on the spot, he will probably be only perplexed by 
contradictory, and perhaps interested, advice. 

THE OUTFIT aENEEAL EQUIPMENT. 

The intending tourist having thus formed and defined 
his plans, it will be time to think of preparing his outfit. 
In so doing the leading objects are to secure, as far as may 
be, protection against rough weather, combined with the 
smallest possible weight and bulk of baggage. This, of 
course, is still more essential when any part of the tour 

work, that is to say, where exposure to bad weather Is contemplated, we 
recommend that the map be glazed and mounted on a roller, with a water- 
proof case ; in which shape it is very portable. 

E 2 



53 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



is to be performed on horseback^ or on foot. Indeed, 
in such a case, we recommend all wrappings of cloth, 
whether coats or cloaks, to be dispensed with, substi- 
tuting for them a light waterproof overcoat fitting closely 
about the neck, and with roomy sleeves to pull down 
over the wrists. It need not have a cape ; but we have 
found an apron, of the same material, of inestimable 
value when sitting for hours in a carriole, or the stern 
of an open boat, while the rain was pouring down in 
torrents. When not wanted, it will fold into a small 
compass. In such weather, the scanty skirts of the 
overcoat offer little protection to the thighs and knees. 
The carrioles, indeed, are fitted with aprons, but the 
rain beats in above them ; the portable apron should, 
therefore, be long enough to be bound tightly round 
the loins above the hips. There should be a travelling 
cap of some light, but waterproof, material; but not 
of seal-skin or other fur. The peak should be rather 
larger than usual, and if we were to travel again under 
liability of exposure to foul weather, in such a country 
as Norway, we would have a curtain of the same mate- 
rial at the back of the cap, like that of a woman^s 
bonnet, or more in the style of the shovel part of a 
sou' -wester, to be buttoned on, or fixed by strap or tye 
as occasion required, in order to shoot off* the rain from 
behind ; for the sensation of water trickling down the 
nape of the neck is, perhaps, of all others, most uncom- 
fortable. Thus equipped, with his cap pulled down 
about his ears, the apron tucked closely round the 
nether-man, and encased in his waterproof overcoat, 
which will throw off the pelting storm like arrows from 



TOURIST^S OUTFIT. 



53 



a coat of mail^ the traveller may defy even tlie hiirri- 
canes of a Norwegian mountain-pass. 

The reader will by this time have learnt that^ accord- 
ing to the experience of former travellers^ an excursion 
in Norway may probably turn out no fair-weather 
imdertaking. We do not say that the tourist may not 
be fortunate enough to happen upon a month or six 
weeks^ in the best part of the summer^ when these pre- 
cautions may appear to have been unnecessary. But in 
such a climate^ — in a country where there are no close 
carriages^ where road-side shelter is hardly to be fouud^ 
and^ in case of continued bad weather^ there is no port 
of refuge under his lee^ — woe be to the tourist who, 
having neglected our suggestions^ lights upon an unfa- 
vourable season^ or even a single day^s hard rain while 
he is on the move. 

The changes of climate in Norway are so sudden and 
great^ that one main difficulty in arranging a traveller's 
equipment^ lies in adapting it to them. In the morning 
he may be crossing a Fjeld above the level of perpetual 
snow; before noon he may have descended into a valley 
where his thermometer stands at eighty degrees. He 
requires a double outfit ; but the limited amount of his 
baggage forbids the indulgence. English travellers are 
too much disposed, wherever they go, to encumber 
themselves with a superfluity of unnecessary articles. 
In Norway all such luxury should be dispensed with. 
The little carriages of the country are lightly built, and 
have no sort of conveniences for the stowage of luggage. 
They are so narrow as only just to contain the traveller's 
person, and a foot-board behind, on which the conductor 



54 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



stands or sits^ is tlie only place of stowage. He is very 
tenacious of the vehicle being overloaded^, the horse is 
of an nndersize^ and the roads are often very steep. 
The foot-board will only hold a portmanteau of moderate 
dimensions^ — for securing which^ by the bye^ a good 
strap should be provided^ — and to the contents of this 
the traveller's outfit must be confined. We should 
prefer a leather valise^ in the old fashion^ as it could^ on 
occasion^ be carried on horseback. A covering of oil- 
cloth for it^ v6ry stout and waterproof, is desirable. 

With his limited allowance of clothings the tourist 
has the choice of two evils ; he is sure^ some time or 
other^ to find it too hot^ and that oppressively^ or too 
cold^ perhaps piercingly. Some of our friends^ of a 
warm temperament^ have preferred to travel in jacket 
and trowsers of some light manufacture; they have 
been all right'' in the close valleys^ but their plight 
was a pitiable one when shivering on mountains from 
3000 to 5000 feet above the level of the sea. We 
ourselves^ though often sufi'ering from heat^ have pre- 
ferred woollen. The intending tourist must decide for 
himself; but^ on the whole^ we are disposed to recom- 
mend the jacket and trowsers to be of stout cloth. 

Shepherd's plaid" is a good style. One suit must 
carry the tourist through his journey. Of course he 
will not want a dress suit^ unless he means to make any 
stay in the towns^ and go into society. Hats and hat- 
boxes must also be discarded. Especial care must be 
taken to procure well-seasoned extra-stout walking- 
shoes^ without nails or metal plates^ and a lighter pair 
should be included in the list of indispensables. Socks 



PROVISIONS rOR THE ROAD. 



55 



of hoTnespnn woollen yam are recominended. For the 
rest^ the intending tourist must consult his own habits, 
with a firm determination^ however, to exclude every 
superfluity. The pedestrian will, of course, provide 
himself with a light knapsack, and his outfit will neces- 
sarily be still more limited in bulk and weight. 

OrTPIT, CONTINTJED — PEOYISION FOE TEAVELLINa IN THE INTEEIOE. 

"While making provision for exterior comforts, some 
sort of supply for the cravings of the inner man must 
not be forgotten. Butcher^s meat is rarely met with 
out of the towns in Norway during the summer. The 
best substitute will be found in the concentrated essence 
of beef which is sold in the London shops which deal in 
preserved meats. It is very portable, being made into 
sausage-like rolls, and a few slices of it will make a 
rich, excellent, and nutritious soup, which an English- 
man will infinitely prefer to the preparations of oatmeal 
which are the staple of Norwegian diet in the country."^ 
Two or three pounds of it will be a good supply for a 
short tour.f To the pedestrian traveller it is invaluable, 
but he will have to learn to be, on occasion, his own 
cook. Some tea, in quarter-pound leaden packets, 
will be also useful, though coff'ee, admirably prepared, 
is to be met with everywhere. It is generally sweetened 
with sugar-candy, and sugar is rather a scarce commo- 

* A lamb or a kid may sometimes be procured at the farms. The 
price will be two or three orts. It will be well to hag what is not 
consmned on the spot, as such a chance may not occur on the morrow. 

t It may be procured, of excellent quality, at Mr. Wilmott's, corner 
o£ Fenchm"ch-street. 



56 



NORAYAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



dity in remote districts of Norway. It is a bulky 
article^ but a small quantity may be carried for special 
occasions. Cakes of chocolate are more portable. 
The scarcity^ indeed the total absence^ of wheaten 
bread in country districts^ is perhaps the greatest 
privation to which the English traveller is exposed in 
Norway^ and it is one the want of which cannot be well 
supplied. The tourist may^ perhaps^ find room for a 
tin case of rusks or biscuits^ reserving them frugally for 
occasional use. If his tastes be Epicurean^ he will not 
forget a bottle of ketchup and some cayenne pepper^ 
to season an otherwise insipid dish of fish, when he 
happens to be lucky enough to meet with it. Bat he 
must not encumber himself with more than a very 
moderate supply of these delicacies. They should all 
be got into the compass of the one portmanteau. A 
flask of French brandy will be found serviceable in 
case of extreme exposure to wet or cold^ the corn- 
brandy of the country being very unpalatable. 

MONEY, AND XETTEES OP CEEDIT. 

Next to the- viaticum, of wliich^ after all^ little can be 
provided in advance^ comes^ as the time for departure 
draws on^ the question of making provision for the 
current expenses of the journey^ — in what shape the 
tourist^ s resources are to be made most conveniently 
available for paying his way. The circular notes of 
the London bankers have no currency in Norway; 
but there are merchants in the city trading with 
Norway who will give letters of credit on their corres- 



LETTERS OF CREDIT. 



57 



pondents in five or six of the principal towns^ in ex- 
change for sums which intending tourists deposit with 
them. Messrs. Sewell and Co.^ of Adelaide Chambers^ 
Gracechurch-street^ are well known and in high credit 
in most of the commercial towns of Norway; and 
Mr. Tottie^ the Swedish and Norwegian Consul^ 
whose offices are at No. 2^ Crosby- square^ Bishopsgate- 
street^ will readily give references to other mercantile 
houses who are ready to render this accommodation; 
he will also with his accustomed kindness furnish any 
other information which the wants of the English 
traveller may suggest. The current Norwegian coins 
are not to be obtained in England^ and sovereigns and 
English bank-notes are not easily exchanged in Nor- 
way. The traveller had^ therefore^ better invest the 
whole capital he devotes to his undertaking in one of 
these letters of credit^ reserving only in English money 
what he thinks will be necessary for his immediate 
expenses before or after leaving Norway. At the first 
toism he reaches in that country^ the London mer- 
chant's correspondents will supply him with the cur- 
rency required for his further progress. Of that we 
may have to speak hereafter. Intending tourists may 
possibly desire to have some clue to the probable 
demand on their purse for an excursion in Norway. 
But so much depends upon a man's habits^, the length 
of his journey^ and the time of his stay^ that it is 
obviously impossible to furnish such an estimate. 
Some details will be given in their proper place of the 
expense of posting and the general charges at inns and 
hotels. All that we can say at present on this subject 



58 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



isy that we liave found travelling in Norway cheaper 
than in any other country of Europe of which we are 
acquainted or informed^, and that we are inclined to 
think that a traveller who is tolerably discreet^ and 
whose wishes are moderate^, may travel to Norway and 
back^ and go a long way into the interior of the country^ 
allowing him a couple of months to accomplish the 
wholC; for a sum certainly not exceeding fifty pounds. 

PASSPOETS. 

One travels through Norway, as through Great 
Britain^ without the annoyance to which travellers are 
subject in every other part of Europe, of having to 
produce their passports, and getting them vised at 
every stage of their journey. We believe they are 
sometimes required on re-embarking at Christiania for 
the passage homeward, though we have done so without 
any such demand. However, it is usual and most 
advisable to be furnished with a passport, which may 
be procured by leaving your name and description with 
the Secretary of the Swedish and Norwegian Legation 
at No. 14, Halkin- street, Belgrave-square, when it will 
be ready by the following day. Two or more inde- 
pendent names may be inserted in one passport, and 
we believe no charge is made at present, though at one 
time there was a small contribution devoted to cha- 
ritable purposes. If it is intended to take what we 
have called the overland route, by the north of Ger- 
many, it may be advisable to have the passport vise by 
the Belgian and Prussian ambassadors. 



STEAMERS TO NORWAY, 



59 



CHOICE OP EOTJTES FEOM ENaLAND — THE DIEECT PASSAGE BY SEA. 

And now^ maps and books of information having been 
obtained^ the personal outfit and viaticum collected^ 
and armed with letters of credit and passport^ the in- 
tending tourist will be fully prepared to start on his 
excursion. If he has not done so before^ it will be time 
that he shall decide on the route he proposes to take 
to reach the place in Norway where his travels proper 
commence. Two courses^ as we have already said^ are 
open to him^ — either to take his passage by steam-boat 
direct to Christiania^ which is the readiest and cheapest 
way^ — the other^ which he may adopt if he has a decided 
objection to a long sea voyage^ or wishes to combine 
with his trip to Norway the transit through some not 
uninteresting parts of Europe^ will conduct him to the 
shore of the Baltic^ from whence he will have a shorter 
passage to Christiania. Of both these courses we pro- 
pose to give some details. 

The direct passage to Christiania is performed by a 
steam-boat from HuU^ with very satisfactory accommo- 
dation^ every alternate week during the season from 
April to November. This boat^ the Courier/^ returns 
on the intermediate weeks_, calling at Christiansand both 
on the outward and homeward voyage. The fare is 
4Z. 10^. for the firsts and 31, 10s. for the second cabin^ 
to Christiania^ and the voyage is performed^ on an 
average^ in about sixty hours."^ Messrs. Wilson^ Sons^ 

^ Messrs. Wilson & Co. have just [1852] launched a splendid new 
steam-ship, " The Scandinavian/^ which has commenced to make voyages 
between Hull and Gothenburg in alternate weeks with the " Courier^s " 
trips to Christiania. 



60 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



and Co.^ of HuU^ will give information as to the precise 
days and lionrs of sailing, and are most obliging in 
contributing by every means in their power to the 
comfort and satisfaction of travellers desirous of pro- 
ceeding to Norway by their steam-boats. 



CHOICE OP EOITTES EEOM ENCIiAKD — THE " 0YEELA1!TD EOrXE/' 

For the other course, it is best to take the steam-boat 
from Dover to Ostend, which starts, we believe, soon 
after the arrival of the London mail at Dover early every 
morning, and reaches Ostend the same evening. It is 
then a day^s journey by the railway from Ostend to 
Cologne, and another from Cologne to Hanover; the 
traveller being detained for the night at each of the 
places indicated. The last day^s journey, also by rail, 
is from Hanover to Hamburgh. The journey should be 
so timed that he may reach Hamburgh not later than 
Friday in any w^eek. From thence, or Altona, it is a 
short run by the railway to Kiel, from whence a Nor- 
wegian steamer starts every Saturday morning during 
the season for Christiania, performing the voyage in a 
couple of days, including a call at Nyborg in Denmark. 
Tlie expense of the whole journey by this route from 
London to Christiania may be estimated at about ten 
pounds, and the time occupied is about a week. Some 
tourists may like, for variety, to take one of these courses 
in going to Norway and the other in returning. In 
that case we should rather recommend the continental 
journey for the return homewards. The scale of stages 



HOTELS. NORWEGIAN MONEY. 



61 



would be the same^ reversing the order in which they 
have here been given. 

TBAVELLIIs'a- li^- KORWAT — HOTELS IN" CHEISTIANIA j MO^^EY i:S 
NOEWEaiAIT CUEEEXCY. 

We will now suppose our tourist landed^ by one or 
other of these routes^ at Christiania^ the modern capital 
of Norway. He will find very respectable accommo- 
dation at either of the principal hotels. The Hotel 
du Nord^^ is considered the best^ as well as the dearest. 
The Hotel de Scandinavie^^ has very good accommo- 
dations^ but is not so much the resort of English 
travellers.^ The reader will find in the sequel some 
account of what Christiania presents which is worthy 
of notice. Our tourist will probably reserve the ex- 
amination till his return from the excursion on which 
he will be naturally anxious to proceed without loss 
of time. One of his first visits will be paid to the 
counting-house of the merchant on whom his letter 
of credit is drawn. There he will be initiated into 
the mysteries of the Norwegian currency. The tra- 
veller abroad ahvays finds some difiiculty at first in his 
dealings with foreign coins. This is particularly the 
case in Norway^ where he has daily_, while en routes to 
make a number of small payments in coins of very 
trifling value^ and of a great variety of descriptions. 
Till he becomes familiar with them^ it is a very puzzling 
afl'air^ and a fev/ lines will be well employed in assisting-^ 

^ The expence of living at hotels in the towns of Norway can hardly 
exceed a sp. dollar and a half per day ; in the country, a sp. dollar will 
generally cover it. 



63 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



Mm to solve tlie difficulties in wMcli^ without some clear 
apprehension of the monetary system^ he will find him- 
self perpetually involved. Our Englishman will have 
his order on the Norwegian merchant cashed at the 
current rate of exchange^ which is generally about four 
specie-dollars and a half for a pound sterling. The 
specie-dollar^ therefore^ is worth a fraction more than 
4s, 6d, English money. The word specie is apt to mis- 
lead a stranger. A very small part of the currency 
consists of silver coinage; it includes^ indeed^ dollars 
and half dollars^ but they are not in general use in any 
considerable proportion. The tourist will receive the 
greatest part of the change for his draft in paper money 
of the value of from half a specie dollar^ — a specie 
dollar^ — two specie dollars each^— to notes of larger 
amount^ — fives^ tens^ and so on ; and these notes^ being 
government paper^ are current everywhere ; and being 
less cumbersome than silver^ are very convenient. Being 
kept long in circulation^ they are often very ragged 
affairs^ but they are called^ in the representative sense it 
is presumed^ specie-dollars. Thus far all is plain enough. 
But the smaller payments are paid in marks'^ or orts/^ 
of which there are five to the dollar^ and skillinffs/' of 
which there 120 ; so that the mark is worth about ten- 
pence halfpenny, and the shilling somewhat less than a 
halfpenny, English money. There is a well-executed 
silver coinage of marks or orts and half marks and orts; 
but the general currency consists of a variety of very 
small coins of the old Danish kings, representing a 
certain number of skillings and orts. It is this small 
coinage which at first occasions perplexity to the 



TRAVELLING POST. 



63 



traveller^ as some of tliem are depreciated^ and Tvill not 
pass for the value stamped upon tliem j"^ and their 
varieties are so great^ that it is some time before he 
becomes famihar with their use. But it is necessary to 
be provided with a good supply of these coins^ as the 
scarcity of money is so great in the interior of the 
country that it is frequently impossible to obtain change 
even for a single dollar-note; and so trifling are the 
payments^ that the reckoning in travelling post seldom 
amounts to even half a dollar. Fortunately^ the coins 
are very lights as well as diminutive^ being of copper 
silvered over. A handful of them will not amount to a 
pound sterling of English money. The best way of 
carrying them is in a small leather bag slung to the 
side^ and thus ready at hand for the demands of the 
road. 



TEAYELLII^a IK KOEWAY, CO^TTI^sUED — THE SEETIGE BY POST. 

Posting in Norway is regulated by law^ there being a 
fixed tariff for every part of the service. There arfc 
stations for changing horses on all the great roads^ and 
many of the cross roads^ at the distance of about a Norsk 
mile_, a little more or less — equal to rather more than 
seven English — from each other. The horses are sup- 
lied^ on the summons of the station-master^ by the 
farmers in the neighbourhood in a certain order or turn. 

* Thus, in most parts of Norway, the coins which are stamped with 
the vakie of 4 sk. only pass current for 3. 



64 



NORWAY, AND ITS SCENERY. 



The fixed rate of payment at tlie country stations is 
24 skillings per Norsk mile. To this is added the fee to 
the station-master for procuring the horses called tilsi- 
gelse, which is 4 shillings for the stage. If a carriole is 
hired with the horse, it is charged 6 skillings extra, in- 
cluding harness, — if a cart, 3 skillings. The first stage 
at starting from great towns, which are called '^^fast 
stations,^^ is charged at the rate of 73 skillings per 
Norsk mile. There are some few fast stations^^ also in 
the country at which the charge is 36 skillings, but from 
the ordinary towns it is 48 skillings. The skyds-guty the 
boy or man who accompanies the horse, sometimes ex- 
pects a small gratuity called drikke penge (drink-money), 
which is optional, but he is perfectly satisfied if he gets 
3 or 4 skillings for the stage. The inconvenience at- 
tending the horses being supplied by the farmers is, that 
their farms being generally at a distance from the 
stations, the traveller is kept waiting a considerable 
time — one, two, sometimes three or more hours, before 
the change of horses is procured, unless he has made 
previous arrangements for prosecuting his journey with 
dispatch. 

TEAYELLI]S^a BY POST — THE TOEBUD. 

This is provided for by the regulation of the forbud, 
a messenger dispatched in advance from station to 
station to bespeak the horses. For this service the 
regulated charge is equal to that for one horse ; that is, 
on the ordinary stages, 34 skillings per Norsk mile. A 



THE FORBUD. 



65 



considerable saving may be effected on long journeys by 
sending the forbud tickets by the courier who has 
charge of the mails. In this AYay the cost is only 4 
skillings for each station. Altogether/^ says an 
experienced traveller in Norway^ the charges thus 
enumerated amount to about two pence-halfpenny per 
English mile for a single traveller^ or three pence if the 
forbud is not sent by post^ a very low rate according to 
English ideas of expenditure."'^ 

The forbud secures extreme punctuality; and all the 
other regulations of the service of travelling by post 
are equally precise^ and calculated to prevent disputes. 
If the horses are not forthcoming at the time appointed,, 
the owner or the station-master is fined one specie-dollar 
for each horse in default. If the traveller does not arrive 
within an hour of the time stipulated and keeps the 
horses waitings he has to pay 6 shillings^ and if he 
exceed three hours^ 12 shillings^ for the delay. After 
that time the owner of the horses is not bound to wait 
longer. But if the delay be occasioned by accident or 
stress, of weather^ the traveller is excused from any 
penalty. A book called the ^^Dag-bog^^ (day-book)^ is 
kept at every station^ in which the traveller is required 
to enter his name and route^ with the number of horses 
he takes. It also contains a column in which he can 
make an entry of any complaint he may have against 
the station-master^ or the owner or conductor of the 
horses. The book is periodically examined by a govern- 
ment officer^ who investigates the charges^ and imposes 
a fine where it appears to have been fairly incurred by 
misbehaviour. 

F 



66 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



TEAVELLING!- IN NOEWAY — TAEIPE POE BOATS. 

Norway is so intersected by lakes and fjords^ tliat 
scarcely a journey of any length can be taken without 
some considerable part of it being performed by water. 
The posting regulations extend to this part of the 
journey. There are regular stations at the place of 
embarking^ where the station-master provides boats^ 
and they may be ordered in advance by the forbud^ in 
the same manner as horses. The payment for each 
boatman is 20 skillings for a Norsk mile ; besides which 
there is a charge for the boat : if four-oared^ 8 skil- 
lings; six-oared^ 12 skillings^ and soon. The station- 
master^s tilsigelse is 2 skillings for each boatman^ and 
the same for the boat. 

TEAYELLINa IN KOEWAY, CONTINUED— THE CAEEIOLE. 

The carriage almost invariably used for long journeys 
in Norway is called a carriole. It is a long^ narrow 
carriage^ something like a canoe on wheels^ but the 
stern is raised high and padded to support the travel- 
ler's back. These vehicles are drawn by a single horse^ 
and will only hold one person. The seat is very low^ 
so that he sits^ or rather reclines^ with his legs extended ; 
and it being very narrow^ he is not easily thrown out. 
The carrioles have no springs^ but the body of the car- 
riage is fixed to light elastic shafts^ on which^ behind^ is 
fitted a foot-board. To this the traveller's baggage is 
attached^ mounted on which the postboy sits or stands. 



THE CARRIOLE. 



67 



These veliicles are so light that they are easily trans- 
ferred to a boat^ when a change in the mode of travel- 
ling is necessary^ the wheels being sometimes taken off 
when the boat is small. Carrioles are very seldom to 
be proenred at the country stations^ where light carts 
of the rudest description are substituted for them. 
They are simply square boxes of deal boards^ roughly 
nailed together^ of a size barely sufficing to hold two 
persons sitting upright^ and fixed on low wheels. 
Having no springs^ the jolting is insufferable. Of 
course such a vehicle is very inconvenient^ even for a 
few stages; to perform a long journey by them is out 
of the question. It is therefore usual for travellers to 
purchase a carriole — of which there are stores in all the 
towns — at the place at which he commences his jom^- 
ney^ selling it again on his return or his arrival at the 
place of destination. Such a vehicle may be purchased 
at from 20 to 30 dollars^ and the loss on re-sale may be 
somewhere from 25 to 50 per cent._, depending upon 
the condition of the carriage^ the state of demand in 
the market^ &c. 

This arrangement answers very well for long^ regular 
journeys^ as from Christiania to Bergen^ or to Dron- 
theim^ and vice versa ; but there is considerable diffi- 
culty when the line of route diverges from the post- 
road^ and lies through tracks impracticable for a car- 
riagC;, as must be the case when the tourist desires to 
visit scenes of interest in wild and mountainous parts 
of the country. In such cases a carriole is very desir- 
able as far as the road is passable towards his object^ 
but the traveller soon reaches a point at which it be- 

f2 



68 



NOEWAY^ AMD ITS SCENEEY. 



comes an incumbrance. It cannot be transported fur- 
ther^ and he will certainly find no pnrcliaser for it on 
tbe spot. If he return by the same road^ it may^ of 
course^ be left till his arrival; but this is not often 
desirable. The touristy therefore^ in these sorts of 
excursions^ must make up his mind from the first to 
get on how he can^ and dispense with the pm^chase of a 
carriole. He may perhaps hire one for a couple of 
stages out of the town from which he starts_, and after- 
wards^ on cross roads^ and as he proceeds further^ must 
submit to the jolting of the light country carts^ which 
are to be met with wherever there is any road practi- 
cable for wheel carriages. Saddle-horses can generally 
be procured^ Avith a little delay, in the most remote 
districts ; the charge for them being at about the same 
rate per Norsk mile as for post-horses on the high roads. 
It is better^ however^ in such excursions to agree by 
the job for the service required. 



TEAVELLIira m KORWAT, CONTIKUED — DISPATCHINa THE FOEBTTD. 

Supposing our tourist to be bent on a journey of some 
extent along a highroad — to have purchased a carriole^ 
and supplied himself with a bag of small coins for 
defraying his current expenses^, — perhaps made some 
addition to his slender stores of provender^ for contain- 
ing Avliich a leather pouch may be conveniently attached 
to the splashboard of his carriole — the only thing re- 
maining to be done wiU be to make timely arrange- 
ments for the forbud. The mail leaves the great towns^ 



DISPATCHING THE FORBUD. 



69 



we believe^ twice a week^ and^ as before observed^ it 
will save expense to forward the tickets by the post. 
The traveller's departure^ therefore^ should be so timed 
as to follow the coimer at some little interval. If a 
forbud is dispatched from the stations^ a greater interval 
must be allowed before the traveller commences the 
journey. It will be desirable^ in the first instance^ to 
get some one acquainted with the road to fill up the 
forbud tickets. Printed forms are to be obtained in 
the principal towns^ of which he should procure a sup- 
ply. In filling them up, one for each station along 
the road, it is necessary to state the number of horses 
required, whether with or without harness, and the day 
of the week and month, with as nearly as possible the 
hour of the day, which will suit the traveller's arrival 
at the particular station for which the ticket is destined; 
and each of the tickets must be signed by him. He 
will therefore have to make a calculation of the number 
of days it will take him to perform the journey, the 
places at which he will stop at night, and the hours at 
which he may hope to arrive at the intermediate sta- 
tions. An order is generally added to the forbud ticket, 
addressed to the station-master where the traveller in- 
tends to rest for the night, directing a supper and bed 
to be prepared. The rate of travelling on which these 
calculations are to be made is from one to one and a 
quarter Norsk mile per hour. The day's jom'ney may 
be just as much or as httle as the traveller pleases. 
There is no inducement to linger on the highroads, and 
an English traveller is generally disposed to push on. 
If the forbud be previously well arranged, there is no 



70 



NORWAY, AND ITS SCENERY. 



difficulty in accomplishing seventy miles a day. Indeed, 
in a country where there is scarcely any night, the only 
limit to his progress is the traveller's power of endur- 
ance. One thing, however, it is desirable to attend to 
in arranging the scheme of the journey, and that is, to 
select, for the night's lodgings, places at which there is 
at least some decent accommodation and promise of 
fare. The post-houses in general are not to be depended 
on for this. 



TEAVELLING IIT KOEWAY, CONTINUED — COUEIEHS OB aUIDES. 

On the eve of the English tourist's departure for the 
interior of Norway, the question will press upon his 
mind and require a decision, if it has not occurred to 
him before, — whether, ignorant as we presume him to 
be of the language of the country, he can venture to 
embark on the journey before him without being ac- 
companied by a courier or servant who can supply his 
deficiency. There will be hangers-on about his hotel, 
who will be eager to offer their services ; and he will 
probably meet with persons who will be ready to assure 
him that such services are indispensable. For ourselves 
we decidedly recommend him to have nothing to do with 
such persons, if he is willing to exert himself, and to 
make the best of things as he finds them. A traveller in 
a country, the language of which he cannot speak, who 
puts himself in the hands of a foreign servant, consults 
his ease at the expense of his independence. Once 
placed in his power, he cannot help himself; he is not- 



COURIERS^ AND THE LANGUAGE. 



71 



only tongue-tied^ but must permit himself to be bound 
hand and foot^ and controlled in all his designs. There 
is a lion in the path when anything is to be done which 
does not suit the purposes or inclination of his trusty 
follower. Through such a medium of communication 
and interpretation the tourist will learn but little of the 
true character of the people among whom he travels. 
There are^ indeed^ countries and circumstances in which 
such services are indispensable; but that is not the case 
in Norway. Several of the travellers whose works have 
been noticed^ who performed extensive tours in remote 
parts of the country_, and have introduced us to the 
vie interieure of Norwegian existence among all classes 
of society^ had no previous knowledge of the language. 
'^1 hardly know anything/^ says one of them^ '^'^that 
sharpens one^s wits more than travelhng where one has 
little or no knowledge of the language. It is wonderful 
how soon the mind becomes familiar with the language 
of signS; and to how narrow a vocabulary the necessities 
of mankind are limited.^'' 



TEAYELLLN-a IK NOEWAY — THE I/AITGUAGE. 

It is an English tourist^s own faulty with the aid that 
is offered him, if he does not^ at this day at leasts set 
out on his journey with a sufficient knowledge of where 
he is goings how he is to go^ and what he has to pay; 
and he must be very dull if he does not quickly learn 
words and expressions which will make known his 
wants. The Norwegian language is very much the same 



72 



NORWAY, AND ITS SCENERY. 



as the Danisli, and bears a nearer affinity to the English 
than any other continental language, the old Norsk 
and the Anglo-Saxon having been cognate branches 
of one original tongue. This language was probably 
once spoken among the people of one-third of England 
during the Norwegio-Danish ascendancy in this coun- 
try, and, according to some writers, it has left indelible 
traces in the vulgar tongue of some parts of the island. 
Be this as it may, it is certain that a north-country 
man, or a Scotch lowlander finds very little difficulty in 
making himself understood among the Norwegians, 
There are vocabularies for assisting the traveller in his 
intercourse with them ; but the mere knowledge of the 
words, without the power of pronouncing them so that 
they may be understood by a native, is obviously of 
little value. The method we took was this. Folding 
a sheet of paper into a small compass — a small-sized 
memorandum-book would be better, but we had none 
at hand — so as to go into a side pocket, and be always 
accessible, we procured from time to time lists of words, 
names of things, and useful expressions, from some 
intelligent native, which we repeated after him till we 
had got the proper tone and expression, and then wrote 
them down exactly as they were pronounced and met 
the ear, with a magnanimous disregard of the correct 
mode of spelling. Sometimes we got our informant to 
write them for us in the same manner. An intelligible 
pronunciation was thus secured; the words thus ac- 
quired with some effort were impressed on the memory; 
and when that failed, our own phonetic^^ vocabulary 
was at hand to refresh it. Our list of words and 



CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. 73 

phrases continually increased^ but we soon came to do 
without it. 

TEAYELLIXG- IN ITOEWAY— CHAEACTEE OF THE COUNTET PEOPLE. 

The Norwegians are an intelligent and kind-hearted 
people^ extremely well-affected towards English travel- 
lers^ and being intensely patriotic and independent^, are 
proud to see him exploring their country. The more 
he trusts to his own resources and throws himself on 
their good-will^ the more he Vvdll be esteemed and the 
better he will be treated. There are no privileged 
classes in the social and political system of Norway; 
all exclusiveness is held in abhorrence by its free and 
sturdy population; but a frank and manly bearing, 
kindly manners^ and a spirit of enterprise will receive 
from them the meed of a better homage than that 
which is paid to the milordo by the slavish sycophants 
who wait upon his progress through softer and sunnier 
regions. The peasantry are^ perhaps^ greedy of small 
gains, except in cases of sheer hospitality, which is 
never wanting ; but they are easily satisfied, and it is 
best not to attempt to drive too hard a bargain with 
them.^ The English traveller, for the credit of his 

It is but fair to say that accounts somewhat differ as to the greed of 
the Norv/egians. Our own experience, confirmed by that of most of the 
travellers whom we are disposed to regard as possessed of the best tone of 
feehng, is favourable to the Norwegian character in this respect ; while 
we have in our eye the narrative of a long jom^ney by a tdurist of some 
experience, whom it would be invidious to name, which is full of accounts 
of the impositions practised on him. Instances of exactions will doubt- 



74 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY, 



country^ should not imagine tliat a well-filled purse 
ought to purchase for him a right to a haughty and 
supercilious demeanour^ such as no native Norwegian^ 
whatever be his official rank or his pretensions^ exhibits 
to his countrymen; nor should he scatter his money 
with a lavish hand^ corrupting the tone of those who 
are brought into intercourse with strangers^ and rais- 
ing expectations which travellers who follow him may 
not be disposed to gratify. At present the English 
name stands as high throughout Norway as once it did 
from Calais to Naples^ from Ostend to Vienna. We 
trust the time is distant when things will be changed in 
this respect; and^ from the class of travellers prin- 
cipally attracted to the rugged shores of Norway, we 
have every reason to hope that it is. 

TEAYELLINa BY CAEEIOLE — LESSONS EOE THE EOAD. 

Everything being now ready, before the tourist takes 
his seat in his carriole, we will venture to give him a 
few hints on Norwegian jockey ship, which he may 
possibly find not without their use. He should under- 
stand then, that he may either drive the carriole him- 
self, or permit the postboy, who is mounted behind, like 

less occur, especially on the post-roads that are most frequented, and 
where the better feeling has become vitiated by the temptations to which 
the people connected with the stations are exposed. But as there is a 
tariff for every item of a traveller's expenses — and it even regulates the 
charges for his fare, which are entered in the dag-hog of every station, 
according to law, such extortions cannot be practised with impunity. 
They will be seldom attempted, if it is perceived that the traveller knows 
what he is about. 



LESSONS rOR THE ROAD. 



75 



tlie conductor of a Hansom^s cab^ to handle the long 
reins and drive it for him. Most English^ as weU as 
native^ travellers prefer the former^ even if they have 
not before been accustomed to driving; and if the 
tourist will attend to one simple piece of advice^ which 
we will presently offer him^ there is no reason why he 
should not do so in full assurance of safety. Mr. 
Barrow gives an amusing account of his sensations on 
his first attempt at driving in Norway. On this 
occasion/^ he says^ I confess I felt myself rather 
awkward^ it being, strange to say^ the first time I had 
held the reins in my hand ! And I was now on the 
point of setting out on a long and perilous journey, 
and to drive myself over the worst of all possible roads, 
and along some of the most frightful precipices that 
are probably to be found in any part of the civilized 
v/orld. Of this we were fully apprized, and I had 
collected from De Capell Brooke^s travels that he 
considered four things were essentially necessary for 
such an undertaking in Norway, — a skilful driver, a 
strong vehicle, good nerves, and harness in perfect 
order ; and that on these the safety of the traveller, in 
a great measure, depends. Add to all which, it was 
stated that a great degree of expertness in driving was 
absolutely necessary, particularly in guiding a carriole 
down the side of a mountain nearly perpendicular, over 
a road barely the width of the carriole, and the sides 
opening upon a yawning precipice. All this had made 
a strong impression on my mind, as I was contem- 
plating to make the same kind of journey; and now 
that I was actually on the eve of mounting, I began to 



76 NORWAY, AND ITS SCENERY. 

hesitate, I was conscious that I was not a skilful 
driver, distrusted the strength of my vehicle, and 
thought that the harness was as likely to break on 
ascending the first hill as not. I had therefore nothing 
but my ^good nerves^ to trust to, and happily they 
carried me through/^ 

The nerves have need, indeed, to be well strung for 
travelling on Norwegian roads ; but the best pitch to 
which they can be braced is, a determination to let 
things take their course, be the apparent danger what 
it may. The carrioles are slightly built, the harness at 
country stations is often old and in bad repair, and yet it 
is astonishing how small a number of accidents happen. 
We attribute this, notwithstanding great authority to 
the contrary, neither to strength of nerve or expert- 
ness in the drivers, except so far as the former is 
entirely passive, but to the great sagacity and sure- 
footedness of the little Norwegian horses. Though 
undersized, they are generally strong and full of spirit. 
The rapidity with which they descend the steepest hills, 
and the agility with which they keep their footing, and 
turn the sharp angles of a precipitous descent, are won- 
derful. When the tourist first mounts a steep ascent, 
Vv^alking up it, as is the usual practice, to spare the 
horse, he probably finds on topping the crest of the 
hill that the declivity on the other side is steeper than 
the ridge he has just ascended. He looks down the 
road, which presents an angle of perhaps forty or fifty 
degrees, a yawning gulf,^^ on one side, as Mr. Barrow 
says, terminating in a foaming torrent beneath. The 
tourist walks on to spare both his nerves and his horse ; 



LESSONS FOR THE KOAD. 



77 



he has no idea how a loaded vehicle is to get to the 
bottom of such a precipice. But in this way he would 
never reach the end of his journey. His conductor 
knows better. The startled tourist is recalled by un- 
mistakable signs^ and made to resume his seat in the 
carriole. Scarcely has he done so^ than he finds him- 
self flying along the edge of the abyss^ jolting over 
loose stones,, and whirled down the precipice with 
a rapidity that leaves him absolutely breathless^ and 
may well shake the firmest nerves. The loss of a 
linch-pin^ or the fracture of a strap in the harness^ 
niight be fatal ; but the Norwegian horse never stum- 
bles ; it knows and is equal to its work. It is not^ 
then^ to his dexterity in driving that the traveller owes 
his safety. The only accident to which Mr. Forester 
was exposed during a long journey arose^ he tells us^ 
from his checking his horse when^ on descending just 
such a dechvity as has been here described^ he appre- 
hended it was approaching too near the edge of a pre- 
cipice^ and thus causing it to swerve, threw it over the 
bank. The advice, therefore, which we ofl'er to the in- 
experienced traveller in Norway is to interfere as little as 
possible with the horse he drives, particularly at critical 
junctures. An experienced ^'^whip^'' is too apt to think 
that he can assist the animal, by holding him up 
while descending a steep hill, as he has been accustomed 
to do at home ; but the Norwegian bridle has no sharp 
curb, the horse is free to exercise the agility with which 
nature has endowed him, the reins are probably an old 
rope which snaps like packthread with a strong pull, 
and the driver^s seat is too low to give him any power 



78 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY, 



over the horse. Here the most unpractised charioteer 
is on a level with the most expert. His safety and 
comfort depend upon his placing the most imphcit 
confidence in the faithful animal which is rapidly 
whirling him down the dangerous pass. 

But even in circumstances where he might exercise it 
without any danger^ the traveller has less control over 
the movements of his horse than he might at first sup- 
pose. He will quickly learn the rule of the road_, which 
is that he is to keep to the rights and he will avoid a 
passing vehicle^ if he should chance to meet one. But 
he can do little to accelerate the pace^ however he may 
be inclined to do so. A whip is an abomination to a 
Norwegian peasant; the spirited little horses seldom 
require the lash^ and we never carried one in any of our 
journeys. The conductor^ who sits behind you^ is not 
an impassive observer of your proceedings. He is very 
careful of his horse^ and if you attempt to urge it to 
what he thinks is an unreasonable speedy he can mode- 
rate the pace by a peculiar whistle^ despite of all your 
efforts; while^ when he pleases^ the well-known sound 
of a certain chirrup excites the animal to greater exer- 
tion. In general^ however^ the post-boys are very good- 
tempered^ and will permit you to have your own way ; 
to which the optional drikke-penge at the end of the 
stage no doubt contributes. If they are obstinately 
surly or phlegmatic^ persisting in checking what you 
think a reasonable speedy the only way to deal with 
them is to hand them the reins and desire them to 
drive themselves^ at the same time taking out your 
watch and pointing to the hour at which you are due 



LADIES TRAVELLING? 



79 



at the next station. Their liability to a fine for need- 
less delay will suffice to enforce greater diligence. On 
the whole^ we believe^ that all tourists are agreed that 
travelling post with a carriole in Norway^ in fair wea- 
ther^ is the most exciting and delightful way of travers- 
ing a country they have ever experienced. 



HOW TAB IS IT PEACTICABLE FOE LADIES TO TEAVEL IN Is^OEWAY ? 

It is a very natural question^ and it may perhaps 
occur to some of a class of our readers to whose gratifi- 
cation we should greatly wish to contribute^, whether 
ladies can be advised to travel in Norway. We meet 
our fair countrywomen crossing Alp and Appenine^ 
braving the terrors of malaria in the Pontine Marshes^ 
and of banditti in the defiles and plains of Campania. 
We see them climbing the passes of the St. Bernard 
and the St. Gothard^ and scaling the slippery steeps of 
the Montanvert ; the Lago di Como finds them gliding 
over its treacherous waters^ and the Lake Leman 
sketching on its picturesque shores. Why are they 
precluded from the pleasure of exploring the romantic 
scenery of Norway? What is to prevent their em- 
barking on the Miosen or the Tind-Soe^ penetratiag to 
the valley of the Maan^ graving the forest-clad base of 
Gousta-Fjeld^ and listening to the mysterious throbbings 
of the mighty Rjukan-Foss^ or threading the mountain 
passes of the Dovre-Fjeld and the Fille-Fjeld? There 
is often in our fair countrywomen no lack of a spirit of 
enterprise equal to our own^ and of a curiosity at least 



80 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



equally keen ; while^ in cheerful submission to hardship 
and patience under privation^ many of the softer sex 
would more than rival those who are better framed for 
stern endurance. How is it to be accounted for that 
we meet so few^ none^ we believe,, of our countrywomen 
travelling in the interior of Norway ; and are there 
sufficient reasons for their being excluded from the 
gratification of such a tour ? 

Let us see what experienced travellers have said on 
this subject. The Rev. Mr. ^ Smithy in the Introduction 
to his beautiful Plates of Norwegian Scenery^ remarks: 
I am not ignorant of the indomitable spirit^ energy^ 
and courage with which English ladies will surmount 
the greatest difficulties^ and brave the utmost peril. 
I can easily believe many would scamper with fearless 
intrepidity on Norwegian ponies down the almost per- 
pendicular cliffs of a fjord^ and through trackless rocks 
and dismal forests ; but I doubt if they will be so easily 
persuaded to entrust themselves to the rough arms of a 
Norwegian boatman^ redolent with finkel^ repose their 
delicate limbs on a shaggy bearskin in some Norwegian 
barn^ or wrap their cloaks around them^ and spend the 
night in a dreary forest^ with a stone for a pillow and 
heather for a bed.-^^ 

In Mr.jForester^s ^^Eambles among the Fjelds and 
Fjords of Norway/^ there are some practical remarks 
on this subject. He says^ ^^If I were asked whether 
English ladies could be recommended to undertake 
a tour in Norway^ I should be disposed to reply^ 
that much of its most interesting scenery may be 
visited^ not only with perfect safety^ but without any 



LADIES TRAVELLING? 



81 



particular privations or grounds of apprehension^ by 
such as are not very fastidious on the score of accom- 
modations^ — have a reasonable share of courage and 
enterprise^ — and are prepared to place implicit confi- 
dence in their conductors. Suitable carriages may be 
procured in the great towns; and on the post-roads 
there would be little difficulty in so arranging the day^s 
jom'ney as to secure proper resting-places for the night. 
The more enterprising might even reach the Rjukan- 
Foss^ and other points diverging from the main lines of 
road^ if provision could be made previously for securing 
saddle-horses from some of the nearest farms. In such 
case Enghsh side-saddles should^ if possible, form part 
of the equipments for the adventure.^^ 

For ourselves, we agree with Mr. Smith that the 
want of suitable accommodations is the main obstacle 
to females undertaking a tour of any extent in the 
remoter districts of Norway, where all the finest scenery 
is to be found. No one who has not been an eye- 
witness and personal sufi*erer can form any idea of the 
disgusting annoyances to which travellers are exposed 
who have to seek their gite where they can find it on 
unfrequented roads. The time is not come when even 
the great highways to Bergen and Drontheim are open 
to female tourists. The resting-places where decent 
accommodations can be obtained, are still of rare occur- 
rence. For a lady to undertake such a journey — of 
three or four hundred miles — in a carriole, a vehicle 
which carries only one passenger, and is not much more 
roomy than a park chaise, with equal exposure to the 
weather, would be preposterous. We have often met 

G 



82 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



Norwegian proprietors travelling with their wives and 
families in a sort of two-horse phaeton^ a roomy and 
commodious carriage; but that was only on good roads, 
and in comparatively level districts, and we very much 
doubt whether it would be practicable by any exertions 
to get such vehicles over the mountain-passes of the 
Dovre-Fjeld and the Fille-Fjeld, not to mention others 
almost as difficult on the same roads. But these car- 
riages, which may no doubt be obtained at Christiania, 
can be used in short and very pleasing excursions. 

The completion of the railway, now constructing 
between Christiania and Minde, at the foot of the 
Miosen, will open an easy way of access to the steamers 
which ply on that large and beautiful lake. Another 
railway is projected between the Skienfjord and the ; 
foot of the Nordsoe, and late accounts from Norway 
inform us that steamers are to be placed on the 
Nordsoe and the Plaa-Vand, which will open out the 
communications with the picturesque district of Telle- 
marken, and materially lessen the difficulty of reaching 
the valley of the Maan and the Ejukan-Foss. Of 
course various points round the coast are accessible by 
by the steamers already mentioned, which ply between 
Christiania and Hammerfest ^"^ but, for ourselves, we 

* The Norwegian coast- steamers may, liowever, sometimes be used 
with advantage to reach distant points, from which it is proposed to 
make excursions into the interior of the country. One of these steam- 
boats leaves Christiania for Christiansand, on the south cocist, twice a 
^veek. From thence there is a similar weekly communication with 
Bergen; and from Bergen, once a fortnight, there is a steam-boat to 
Drontheim. It proceeds northward as far as Hammerfest, touching at 
the principal intermediate places on the coast. The whole passage from 
Bergen to Hammerfest is usually accomplished in eleven days. 



RAILWAY AND STEAM-BOATS. 



83 



consider it only tantalizing to catchy from the crowded 
deck of a steamer^ passing glimpses of distant mountain- 
ranges and opening valleys^ among which one longs to 
roam in all the seclusion and freedom of action^ which 
contribute to give them their greatest charms. On 
the whole^ we agree with the experienced traveller we 
have just quoted^ with a distinct recognition of the 
importance of his reservations^ that much may even 
now be accomplished by ladies whose enthusiasm is 
kindled from what they see and read in portfohos and 
books of travel^ into a strong desire to know something 
for themselves of Norwegian scenery. But we can on 
no account recommend them to undertake the journey 
unless they are accompanied by a gentleman already 
experienced in Norwegian travel, and in some degree 
acquainted with the language ; or unless the party is 
attended by a courier who has been well recommended, 
and who speaks both languages, English and Danish. 

It has been our design in the present chapter to asso- 
ciate ourselves with the intending tourist, from the first 
germ of thought which leads him to contemplate an 
excursion through the far-famed scenery of romantic 
Norway. We have endeavoured to forward his project 
by assisting him in his preparations for the tour, and 
pointing out the means by which it may be most satis- 
factorily accomplished. We have accompanied him in 
the preliminary journey, whether by sea or land, which 
has introduced him to the shores of Norway. We have 
prepared him for his further progress by some details of 
the mode of travelling in that country, and suggestions 

G 2 



84 



NORWAY^ AND ITS SCENERY. 



for his own guidance. And now that^ having conducted 
him to his carriole^ he is ready to step into it and set 
forward on his road, we bid him good speedy trusting 
that he will derive advantage from the aid we have been 
able to offer him^ and nothing doubting that his tour 
in Norway will fully realize the expectations he may 
have formed^ and that^ like all other travellers in that 
country, he will leave it with regret. 



EOAD-BOOK FOE TOUEISTS IN NOEmY. 



SECTIOJf I. 

ON THE CHOICE OF A TOUR IN NORWAY— SEVERAL 
% ROUTES PROPOSED. 

Ii^" the preliminary observations containing practical 
suggestions to tourists in Norway it was recommended that, 
as a general rule, some settled scheme for the tour should 
be formed in the first instance ; it being assumed that, 
with the aids referred to, the intending tourist would be 
able to sketch out for himself the rough outlines of an 
excursion suited to his time and his taste. Having, there- 
fore, landed him in JSTorway, and supplied him with general 
information on the modes and incidents of travelling in the 
interior of the country, he was left to follow the bent of 
his own inclination, without further help for his future 
guidance. 

Upon further reflection, however, it appeared that the 
inexperienced traveller might still be perplexed in the selec- 
tion of routes which would best include the several objects 
he might desire to accomplish, and in the guidance he would 
require from stage to stage in his proposed journey. There 
appeared also to be no means at hand exactly calculated to 
furnish him with the assistance he requires. To supply 
this deficiency, the first object will be to ofier a choice of 
Eoutes, by which the greatest number of desirable points 
can be combined in one continue as excursion, without 
returning over the same ground. Succeeding sections will 
draw out in detail the course of the several Eoutes, accom- 

z 



836 CHOICE OF TOURS, AND TIME REQUIEED. 

panied by useful remarks and such short notices as may 
suffice to direct attention to remarkable objects. 

The limited time which his avocations allow for an autumn 
excursion is often an important ingredient in the calcula- 
tions of an English tourist ; and in such a country as 
Norway, where the distances are great, and the season for 
travelling with comfort is short, it is more than ever neces- 
sary that the arrangements for a tour should be made with 
reference to this important element. July and August are 
the best months for travelling in Norway, but the excur- 
sion may commence as early as the middle of June, and 
be prolonged far into October; thus allowing full four 
months of generally good travelling weather, in the course 
of which the tourist, who has so much time at his command, 
may traverse the whole of Norway from the Lindesnses (the 
Naze) to the North Cape. But a single month, from the 
time of leaving England, will suffice for the accomplish- 
ment of many of the tours proposed, embracing the most 
remarkable objects Norway has to offer. Indeed, in that 
space of time one of our best writers of travels in Norway 
visited its three capital cities, though they form the angles 
of a triangle, each of the sides of which is upwards of 
800 miles in length, and the roads to two of them cross 
extensive mountain ranges. In a time almost as limited, 
another traveller went through the central and western dis- 
tricts, embracing the finest scenery in Norway, spending 
some days in each of two of the capitals, though great part 
of the excursion was performed on foot. There is no induce- 
ment to the casual visitor to linger in the cities and towns of 
Norway ; but any one who has felt the wear and tear of long 
journeyings'in a rough country, will understand how much 
some break is requisite in the fatigues and privations to 
which he must be exposed: two or three da^^s will serve to 
recruit his strength, refit his wardrobe, and replenish his 
resources ; and after such an interval of repose, he will be 
prepared to start with fresh energy on his further progress. 
In the calculation of time for the proposed tours, due allow- 
ance will be made for this respite, and fitting points for its 
indulgence pointed out. 

It has been hitherto the almost universal practice of travel- 
lers to make Christiania the starting-point for their excur- 



POINT OF DEPAETURE. 



337 



sions througli the country, the "overland route," and all 
the communications from England having centered in that 
capital. It may still be considered the most desirable base 
for expeditions into the districts of Trondhjem, Nordland, 
and Einmark, but the finest and most attractive scenery 
lying in the central and western districts, it will be evident 
on the most casual glance at the map of Norway, that Chris- 
tiania, lies so much to the eastward, that to go there in the 
first instance, when these districts are the main object of the 
excursion, is so much time lost. Not that this, the present 
capital of the kingdom, with its enchanting fjord and the 
beautiful scenery of the Mjosen-vand, with other attractive 
objects in the neighbourhood of Christiania, ought to be 
omitted from any well-digested plan of a visit to Norway. 
But where the main design is to visit the western districts, 
and points of interest connected with the routes to them, 
it is desirable that Christiania, with its neighbourhood, be 
reserved for the conclusion of the tour, being made the 
place of embarkation on the return to England, instead of the 
starting-point for an excursion into the interior of Norway. 
That city will otherwise have to be visited twice, and it would 
be difficult to frame a tour of moderate extent, without 
having to retrace the steps on a road already travelled. 

So much was this difficulty felt by some former tourists, 
that, wishing to be landed at once on the south coast, at any 
point from which they might plunge at once into the heart 
of the most romantic districts of Norway, they have, as 
before remarked, encountered with this object all the annoy- 
ances of a passage in the ordinary trading- vessels. During 
the last season, however, a speedy and direct communication 
was opened with the south of Norway, by the English steam- 
boats calKng regularly at Christiansand. There is some 
doubt whether this will be continued ; but at all events, 
the lightly equipped and active tourist will find no great 
difficulty in being put ashore, either there or at some other 
port on the south-coast, by one of the numerous pilot and 
fishing-boats which ply along the shore. It does not 
much matter where, as the road along the coast joins 
all the routes in this quarter. By this plan something 
will be saved in the outward voyage, and the tourist's 
natural longings, after sighting the coast, to ramble without 



338 TOUR m THE SOTITH-WESTEBK DISTRICTS. 

loss of time in the recesses of the mountains which he 
is invited to explore, will be gratified ; so that in four or 
five days after leaving England, he may, if he please, find 
himself far up in the land where he would be : an object 
not to be accomplished in any other way without double or 
treble loss in time and distance. The same object may be 
attained by taking the road through Grermany already 
pointed out; as the steam-buats from Kiel meet, at Sandse- 
sund, those which touch at the ports on the south coast; 
or, still better, by the new line between Hamburg, Christian- 
sand, and Bergen. See "Eoutes of Steam-ships," Sec- 
tion 3. 

I. Considering Christiansand, therefore, as the base of 
operations for the present, the Jlrst group of routes, diverging 
from thence, opens up the midland and western districts. 
A comparatively short circuit will embrace all the principal 
features of the former. 

1. This will lead the tourist into the province of Tele- 
narken, remarkable for the beauty of its valleys, the 
primitive manners of its inhabitants, and for the curious 
timber church of Hitterdal, of unknown age, and of most 
singular architecture. Pursuing his course through dais 
and forests, he will embark on the Tind-soe, one of those 
magnificent lakes, an inland sea, for which Norway is so 
celebrated. This navigation will land him at the foot of 
Gousta-Fjeld, the noblest mountain in the south of Norway ; 
a short journey up the valley at its base will bring him to 
the Ejukan-Eoss, its most splendid waterfall. Making this 
the extreme point of his tour in a north-west direction, the 
traveller, whose time is limited, may proceed by way of 
Kongsberg (famous for its silver mines) to Christiania, the 
whole of the circuit, embracing several striking objects, and 
through a wild, yet beautiful country, being accomplished 
with ease in less than a fortnight. A few days may then be 
devoted to an excursion to the Mjosen Vand, and other 
points of interest easily reached from Christiania ; and if the 
tourist does no more, he will in this short space of time 
have accomplished a most interesting tour, and made himself 
acquainted with many of the peculiar features of Norwegian 
scenery. This tour may be accomplished either by Eoutes 3 



TOUR IN THE WESTEUN DISTRICTS. 



839 



or 4^ as the tourist may choose, and Rente 15. Eonte 8 from 
Arendal, by the Falls of the Eiver Xid and the noble Nisser- 
vand, is decidedly recommended to the more enterprising 
traveller. 

2. But if his plans are of a more extensive kind, and he 
wishes to visit the mountain Fj elds and magnificent Fjords of 
western JSTorway, and perhaps reach Bergen as the ultimate 
point of his destination in that quarter, the tourist may still 
make Christiansand his place of departure, taking the direct 
road from thence to Odde, at the foot of the Hardanger- 
Fjord (Eoute 2). So doing, he will have to relinquish the 
excursion through Telemarken and the Ejukan-Foss ; but 
both objects may be combined, by not taking the direct 
northern road from Christiansand, but after visiting the 
Foss joining that route by a pleasant detour through the 
valleys of Telemarken, or, if the tourist is not encumbered 
with baggage, and has spirit and strength for a somewhat 
bold adventure, by crossing the chain of the Hardanger- 
Fjeld into the Bergen stift in a direct line from the E;iukan- 
Foss. This tour would be completed by returning from 
Bergen to Christiania by the great post-road over the Fille- 
Fjeld, a most interesting route. — (See continuation of 
Eoute 4 and Route 16.) This second circuit may be accom- 
plished, with ordinary diligence, in about three weeks, 
including two days spent at Bergen, and a day or two of 
occasional respite on the road ; one of which should always 
be Sunday, both from proper motives, and out of respect to 
the feelings of the people. The calculations should be so 
made, if possible, that the rest may be connected with a 
suitable station. 

It will be convenient to throw the routes through ^Norway 
into groups connected with certain centres, and those already 
mentioned, and some others, having Christiansand for their 
starting point, will form the first, or south-western group. 

11. 1. If the tourist does not proceed to Bergen, which 
city is, however, well worthy of a visit if that does not 
interfere with more important objects, the time saved may 
be most satisfactorily devoted to excursions on the Har- 
danger and Sogne-Fjords, including the magnificent Voring- 
Foss. — (See Routes 6, 7, and 8.) In that case Lierdals-oren, 



340 TOUR IK THE CENTRAL WESTERN DISTRICTS. 

on the latter Fjord, will be the extreme northern point of 
the tour, and the traveller will there join the high road to 
Christiania. 

2. Lierdals-oren is centrical and convenient for a series 
of excursions into the heart of the boldest and most mag- 
nificent scenery of Norway. These are pointed out in 
Route 8, and the more enterprising tourist may return to 
Christiania by the road described as a sequel to one of these 
excursions. The routes connected with Lierdals-oren form 
our second, or central group. 

III. The tourist may have leisure and inclination, while 
he is in the western districts, to extend his journey still 
further northward, making Bergen his point of departure; 
having reached it either by one of the direct routes already 
mentioned, or by Lierdals-oren, on the Christiania road to 
the former city. In that case two courses may be suggested 
to him. 

1. He may take the post road to Drontheim (Trondhjem)* 
the ancient capital of Norway, returning over the Dovre-Ejeld 
to Christiania. The former part of this route is somewhat 
toilsome, no less than fifteen fjords, and a proportionable 
number of intersecting ridges having to be crossed; but it 
will amply repay the difiiculties to be surmounted. The 
road over the Dovre-Fjeld has been thought one of the 
finest mountain-passes in Europe. This extension of the 
tour, including a stay of two or three days at Trondhjem, 
would not add more than a week or ten days to the time 
estimated for the tour 1. 2 ; the return route by the Dovre- 
rjeld being in distance much the same as that by the Fiile- 
Ejeld, which the tourist must then relinquish the present 
opportunity of visiting. 

2. Connected with the route from Bergen to Trondhjem, 
the tourist will have the means, if his time allow, of visiting 
the valley of Eomsdal, forming, with its mountain peaks, 
one of the most striking scenes in Norway. He may also 
make a short excursion on the Fjord to Aalesund, remark- 
able as being the place where Bollo fitted out his fleet 
for the conquest of Normandy. From Molde, if he strikes 

* This name is spelt both ways. In the " Eoad-Book " that which is 
nearest the usual pronunciation of the word, Tronyem is adopted. 



TOIJE TO TEO^s^DHJEM AND THE NOETH. 



841 



Trondtjem out of the sclieme of his tour, having no desire 
to visit cities, however ancient and curious, he may turn 
south along practicable roads, either following the course of 
the Eauma-elv (Eoute 2i), which will land him on the post 
road to Christiania south of the Dovre-Fjeld, or, if he wishes 
not to lose its fine passes, by taking the road down the 
Sundal's-Elv, he will fall in with the high road at Opdal, 
on the northern side of the range. These routes (see Kos. 
10 and 11,) and others connected with them, form the tJiird, 
or north-western group. 

ly. All the roads from the south of ISTorwaj converging 
at Trondhjem, the general point of departure for the northern 
provinces of JN'ordland and Finmark, this will be the place 
for introducing the Eoutes in that direction. The most 
frequented are those to the ISTamsen and Alten rivers, 
famous for their salmon fishing. The work would be incom- 
plete, unless it supplied the Eoute through to the JN'orth 
Cape, though this route, traversing nine degrees of latitude 
in a desolate and impracticable country, is little used, even 
by the few travellers who extend their journey so far north, 
since the coast-steamers land them with ease and comfort 
at Hammerfest, within ninety miles of the North Cape. 
The routes thus connected with Trondhjem form the fourth, 
or northern group. 

V. The routes which traverse the eastern and south-eastern 
districts of Norway remain to be noticed. Some of them, 
indeed, extend far beyond these limits ; but Christiania may 
be considered as the centre from which they all diverge. Of 
the two main lines, one to Trondhjem, over the Dovre-Fjeld, 
and the other to Bergen, over the Eille-Fjeld, the best known 
and most frequented routes in Norway, nothing need be 
added to the remarks appended to those routes. It may 
be desirable, however, to direct particular attention to 
Eoute 15, as it forms a link connecting Christiania with the 
interesting excursions to the Telemarken and the Ejukan- 
Foss, and in fact with all the approaches to the western 
districts, which may be called the southern roads, in dis- 
tinction from the route to Bergen over the Eille-Fjeld ; and 



842 TOUES iisr the south-easteen disteicts. 

thus with a great part of the circuit pointed out in the 
earlier part of this section. In the present arrangement 
those Eoutes to the westward are all connected with Chris- 
tiansand and the south coast ; but they will equally serve 
the traveller who lands at Christiania, by adopting Koute 15 
by Drammen and Kongsberg ; and should he proceed west- 
ward, by the northern road, he may of course take them 
the reverse way on his return to Christiania. 

1. A most interesting tour, of about a month, may be 
made by taking Eoute 21 to Eomsdalen, and thence joining 
some of those in the central and southern group, as pointed 
out in the remarks on that route. On the other roads 
in the eastern and south-eastern districts few preliminary 
observations are necessary. The surface of the country 
in these parts of Norway is more level, and the scenery 
of altogether a tamer character than that of the districts 
which have previously passed under our notice, and the 
English tourist seldom lingers in this part of the kingdom. 
The country is, however, in many directions beautiful and 
diversified — lakes, forests, and rivers, being intermingled 
with well cultivated land — and though the elevations of 
the hills are comparatively low, the foreground is often 
backed by distant chains of lofty mountains. Many ex- 
cursions of considerable interest, and within easy reach of 
Christiania, may be sketched out. A few of the most agree- 
able shall be mentioned, either as distinct excursions, or 
connected with the wider tours already suggested. 

2. The railroad from Christiania to Minde, now in process 
of completion, will open to the traveller easy access to 
the foot of the great Mjosen-Vand, about 40 miles from 
Christiania; the lake itself penetrating 70 miles into the 
interior of the country, almost due north. Steam-boats, 
supplied with every accommodation and an excellent table, 
ply almost daily between Minde and the town of Lille- 
hammer, at the head of the lake, where there is a good 
hotel. The tourist can take this course with advantage in 
going to, or returning from, the Dovre-Ejeld or Trondhjem, if 
those objects are included in his plans. He will then have 
to ascend the beautiful valley of Grulbrandsdal for the whole 
of its vast length. But if such be not his intention, it would 



EXCUESIOl^TS FEOM CHEISTIANIA. 



343 



be well to make an excursion up it from Lillehammer, as far 
as his time and convenience will admit. 

Returning from Lillehammer to Cliristiania, it will be ad- 
visable to vary tbe route ; and, having passed up the centre 
of* the Mjosen lake in the outward voyage, to return by 
the roads on one or other of its banks. Both Eoutes are 
given ; but that on the eastern side of the lake, through the 
fine district of Telemarken, is preferable. This excursion 
can be easily accomplished in a week. Carrioles should be 
taken from Christiania and the forbad for post-horses laid 
from Lillehammer, if it is intended to return by land. The 
latter precaution must never be omitted, wherever there is 
an opportunity of making previous arrangements, otherwise 
the delays will be very inconvenient. 

3. The Tyri-Fjord and the Rands-Ejord are two lakes 
within easy distance of Christiania, the latter running 
30 miles up the country, and offering many fine points 
of view. They lie on the road to Bergen ; but if the tourist 
does not take that route, he may very satisfactorily employ 
a few days in such an excursion from Christiania. It may 
be agreeably varied by crossing the ridge between the 
Mjosen- Vand and the Eands-Fjord from Hun to Land, and 
returning by the Mjosen to Christiania. See Eoute 16. The 
road is good, and there are excellent accommodations at Hun, 
where the steamers call daily, and embark carriages as well 
as passengers. 

4. One of the roads to Trondhjem passes through Boraas, 
celebrated for its copper mines ; and in the neighbourhood, on 
the hills near the Swedish frontier, there is an encampmer 
of Laplanders, who with their herd of reindeer are objects 
of curiosity not otherwise to be seen nearer than the remote 
provinces of Nordland and Binmark. Boraas lies about 
220 English miles north of Christiania, and is approached 
by a post-road, which, turning off from the road on the east 
bank of the Mjosen, follows the course of the Grlommen, 
the largest river in Norway; the same road also descending 
the river to Kongsvinger. Several travellers have taken 
Boraas in their way to, or from, Trondhjem; a road from it 
joining the great northern road at the station of Jerkin, 
while another, not much frequented, leads directly from 
Boraas to Trondhjem. 



344 



CnEISTIANIA-rJOED. 



5. An excursion may be made by those who have time and 
inclination to some of the towns in the south-east of Norway ; 
Kongsberg, famous for its silver mines ; Drammen for its 
saw-mills and timber trade; Frederikshald and Frederiksvsern, 
the naval arsenals of Norway; or to Moss, Sarpsborg, and the 
Falls of the G-lommen. That noble inlet of the sea, the Chris- 
tiania Fjord, will doubtless be navigated by the tourist, either 
on his outward or homeward passage, but its enchanting shores 
and islands offer many separate excursions of great interest. 

The several routes glanced at in the last division, and 
more or less connected with Christiania, together with the 
routes connecting Norway with Sweden, its sister kingdom, 
compose ovx fifth group — that including the roads in the east 
and south-east of Norway. 

By the aid of this classification, and the general view now 
taken, the tourist will be able to select from the choice of 
routes offered him those which will best suit his inclination 
and convenience. He is recommended not to attempt too 
much, unless he has entire reliance on his energies of mind 
and body. Estimates, which may be depended on under 
ordinary circumstances, have been given, in connexion with 
most of the defined tours, of the time required for the 
accomplishment of the journey proposed. But the tourist, 
with limited time, must recollect the importance of not 
missing the steam-boat from Christiania, which, at present, 
only departs once a fortnight ; and his arrangements should 
be made with reference to that circumstance, his movements 
being accelerated accordingly in the last stages of his tour, 
if necessary.. Several of the separate, or combined, circuits 
suggested, may, as already mentioned, be performed within 
a month, and it may be observed, in conclusion, that nearly 
the whole series of excursions, from Trondhjem southward, 
sketched in the preceding observations, may be accomplished 
by an active and spirited traveller in six weeks, or two 
months at farthest, not only without any undue haste, but 
with leisure to linger in scenes particularly attractive ; and 
even, if his strength and equipments permit, to wander 
on foot through those parts of his tour which are best 
adapted to, and most enjoyed in the course of, rambles of 
that kind. 



345 



SECTION II. 

I. ROUTES m TUB WEST AND SOUTH-WEST OF NORWAY. 



ROUTE 1. 

CHEISTIANSAND TO STAY AN GEE AND BEE GEN. 

The most direct road from Cliristiansand to Bergen is by 
Eoute 2; but both are, in great measure, superseded by the 
steam-boats which perform the voyage during the season 
round the southern and western coasts of Norway, from 
Christiania to Hammerfest, calling at the intermediate ports, 
including Christiansand, Stavanger, and Bergen, particulars 
respecting which are given after the Land Routes. But 
the tourist who has sufficient leisure, and wishes to see the 
country, will be amply repaid for the difficulties of the 
journey by the present Boute, which, following the coastline, 
crosses the numerous Tjords with which it is indented, and 
for the first hundred miles, at least, leads through a succes- 
sion of scenery of the most diversified and picturesque cha- 
racter. The journey may be performed in a carriole, and to 
prevent delays the forbud must be dispatched according to 
the directions already given. 

^ Christiansat^d to 
Brsendaasen . . . . . . 

Lunde, in Sogne* . . . . |- 

* The stations in the several Routes are given from the latest tables 
published by authority at Christiania [1852.] But as they are fre- 
quently changed, and are in many cases merely lone farmhouses, which 
do not appear on ordinary maps, the names of the parish or other locality 
in which they are situated are generally added; so that if the traveller 
should be at any loss from subsequent changes, he may, at least, be able 



346 EOIJTE I. — CHEISTIAH^-SAKD TO STAYANGEE, 



VaLtne, in Holem 
^ Mai^^dal 

Vigeland, in Valle 
^ Sandnoes, in ditto 
* Bergsager 

Tjomsland 

Eorvig, in Pedde 

Tedde 

^ Flekkeejoed 
^ Sirnses, in Bakke 

Nysted, or Moi, on the Lunde- 
vand 

Eide, or Eye, in Hellestad 

Hefsland, in ditto 

Smlestad, in Holleland 
' Slettebo, in Eoeesujstd 

Hegrestad, in ditto 

Holleland 
^ Haar, in Barboug 

Hobberstad, in ditto . . 

Soy land, in Xserbo 

Eee, in Theme-Sogn . . 

Skiefveland, in Hojland 

Sannaes, in Some 
^ Stayakger 



If 



H 
1 

1 

li 

4. 

U 
If 



1 

If 



5, 

S 
5 
"8 

2 

r. 

8 

A 

8 



Pay for m. 



251-K m. 181 E.m. 

^ Cheistiaksakd stands well at tlie bottom of a deep 
bay, called the Top dais-Fjord, wbieh forms a fine harbour. 
It is a place' of considerable trade, and a bishop's see, and 
from the number of gardens included in its circuit, the town 
covers a large space of ground, the population being 12,000. 
The " Britannia" is the principal hotel : but there is much 
more comfort, and the charges are reasonable, at a house 
kept by Mr. Eosenkilde. Messrs. Sewell's letters of credit 

to ascertain whereabouts on his Hne of road the new stations must lie. 
Munch's map is invaluable for occasional reference, as it contains the names 
of all the places, hov/ever unimportant, which can by possibihty become 
stations. But it is, consequently, so crowded with names, that the traveller 
will find it convenient to carry also a clearer map for general purposes. 



347 



are payable here, and the traveller will do well to obtain a 
good supply of the jSTorwegian currency. There is not much 
to detain the traveller at Christiansand ; but the cathedral is 
worthy of a visit, as w^ell as the ancient church of Oddernses, 
over the bridge, where there are some old tombstones, and 
a Eunic stone supposed to be of the eleventh century. The 
wild scenery of the Torrisdals-Elv will repay an excursion 
to the Hel-Eoss. Eoute 2 follows the romantic course of 
this river to its source in the mountains. 

^ Mais'dal. — A small fishing town, from which an excur- 
sion may be made to the Naze, or Lindesnses, the S.W. 
point of Norway, on which there is a light-house. It is 
generally the first object seen by the tourist on approaching 
the coast. See "Norway and its Scenery," p. 85. 

^ SandncES is the nearest point of the road to the Lindes- 
n^s ; the tourist may probably procure a boat down the little 
Ijord, a distance of 14 English miles. 

* JBergsager. — Cross here the Lyngedals-Elv*, up which a 
horse-track leads to the lake of the same name, through a 
very picturesque valley, and afterwards passing the moun- 
tains, joins the road in Eoute 2. All this part of the main 
road ofiers scenes of great variety and beauty. 

^ Elekkeejoei). — A town of considerable trade, with a 
good harbour, but the entrance of the Fjord through rocky 
headlands is extremely narrow and difiicalt. It was here 
that the " Neptune" steamer was brought in during a gale 
of wind in 1852 by a female pilot, who has been called the 
" Grace Darling " of Norway. 

^ Sirnces in Bakke. — The Siredals-Vand, a picturesque 
lake, extends for nearly 20 English miles to the north of 
Bakke. 

' Slettehd. — Egersund, a small town supported by the 
herring and lobster fisheries, for which all this coast is cele- 
brated, stands at the head of a small bay -|-rd of a mile north 
from this station. 

^ Haar. — Here the road approaches the North Sea. Its 
romantic character ceases after crossing the lower range of 
the long chain of mountains which, extending the whole 

* It is not intended, as a general rule, to notice all the rivers and 
fjords crossed in the several routes, as no tourist can be recommended 
to travel without a good map, on which he will find them laid down. 



348 EOUTE I. — CHEISTIANSAKD TO STAYAKGEB 

length of Norway, parallel witli the coast, terminates in the 
promontory of Lindesnses. 

^ Stayanger. — A large town, containing upwards of 
8000 inhabitants, the principal station of the herring fisheries 
on this coast. It was formerly a bishop's see ; the cathedral, 
in the style of early English architecture, is stiU. in good 
preservation. 

EOUTE I. continued. — STAYAl^aEE TO BEBGEI?". 

There are so many water stations on the remainder of this 
route, and so little that is interesting in the land stages, 
that the tourist is advised to take the steam-boat from 
Stavanger to Bergen. Tailing to meet it, he may go forward 
in boats, there being water-stations all the way. 



Moad Stations. 




Boat Stations, 


* Gangenses, in Renniso 




Fjeldoen 


. n 


Island 


1 


Forresvig 


. H 


* Judebjerget, m i^mao 




Kopervig • 


. 1 


Island 


1 


, Hougesund 


1 


* Jelstranden . 


2 


Lyngholmen • 




* Vigedal-soren 


li 


Tjernagelen 


. 1 


Trseet, by Sanddei, in 




Mosterhavn . 


. 1 


Vigedal . 
Aalen, in Fjgslberg . 


2 


Folgerden 


. 1 


3 
4 


Engesnnd 


. 1 


* Etnsesoen 


1 


Baekkervigen . 


. 1 


Sknonevig-soen 


1 


Ostre Bagholm 


. 1 


Olfernses, in Sknd- 




Bukken 


• n 


nevig , 


3 
4 


3 Beegen 


. 2 


Vahlen, in ditto 


3 
4 






Helvigen, in Quin- 






16 IST. m. 


herred 


1 




112 E. m- 


* Huse, in ditto 








Sundfjord, in ditto . 


I 

2 






* Ssernvold, in ditto 








Fuse, in ditto 


5 
8 






* Hatvigen, in ditto 


1 

2 






* Onsoren, or Inner 








Moberg . 


1 

2 






Atlestad, in Fane 


u 






Beegen 









ISjK.m. 
132| E. m. 



AND BEEGE^'. 



849 



^ The first four stages in this route, as well as all the 
others marked are performed by water. 

^ OJfernces. — There is a track, marked in the maps, from 
Ijseren, at the head of the Aakre-Fjord, above Sknonevig, 
by the foot of the Eolgefonde glacier to Seljestad, near the 
bottom of the Sor-Fjord, and other tracks by the Folgefonde 
to the Hardanger, more to the north. Any of these roads 
must be very interesting, and would save time to tourists 
wishing to explore the fine scenery of the Hardanger from this 
Eoute instead of following it to Bergen ; but these passages 
should not be attempted without an experienced guide. 

^ Eesgek. — The hotels here are not frequented by English 
travellers, but there is an excellent establishment, kept by 
Mrs. Soutum, where all the comforts of a private house are 
found, with the kindest attentions. Mr. Alexander Greig, 
the British Vice- Consul at Bergen, is well known for his 
readiness to give friendly assistance and advice to English 
tourists. Principal objects in Bergen : — The harbour with 
its variety of shipping ; the fish-market ; the German quarter 
and curious church ; the castle, and Walkendorf's tower, 
with the old king's hall and the esplanade ; and the museum, 
containing a collection of Xorsk antiquities, and specimens 
of the animals peculiar to the country, &c. Eor further 
particulars of Bergen, see " Norway and its Scenery/' p. 174. 



EOUTE 11. 

CHEISTIANSATO TO THE HAEDAlS^aEE AITD BEEaE^^, BY S^TEESDALEN. 

This is the most direct route from Christiansand to Berofen : 
but as great part of it runs through ^ild and thinly inhabited 
districts, with only horse-tracks for roads, and resting-places 
of the most wretched description, it is little frequented even 
by Norwegians. The hardy tourist will, however, find com- 
pensation for his fatigue and privations in the variety and 
grandeur of the scenery; some of the finest in the south of 
Norway. If this route be not pursued all the way to 
Bergen, which is not advisable, no more agreeable excursion 
can be chalked out for a tourist lightly equipped and willing 



850 EOUTE II. — CHRISTIANSAT^D BY S-^TEESDALE15?', 

to rough, it, than to follow the road as far as Bytle, or at 
least to Valle, in Scetersdalen^ about 120 English miles from 
Christiansand, and then to diverge by a horse-track to the 
right, which leads in about 30 English miles into the beau- 
tiful valleys of Telemarken, where the tourist will fall in with 
Eoute 4, and taking the Ejukan Eoss in his circuit, may 
proceed either to Christiania or Bergen. Mr. Inglis (see 
"jN'orway and its Scenery," p. 19.) has given a delightful 
account of this excursion. He followed this route as far as 
Bykle, from whence he struck off to the east; but in general it 
would be better to do so at Hommeland, \ Norsk mile beyond 
Valle, when the Torris-Elv makes a bend to the west. 

This excursion, as well as the long journey to Bergen by 
this route, is attended with the inconvenience, that as there 
is no carriage-road beyond Valle, it is useless to take a 
carriole from Christiansand, and the whole journey must 
therefore be performed on horseback, except the traveller 
prefers using the country cars provided at the stations, and 
which may be taken as far as Valle. There are regular 
stations all the way, but horses must be previously engaged 
by the forbud, or the delays on so long a route will be 
harassing. The tourist's baggage should be very portable, 
but it must include a small stock of such eatables as can be 
easily carried. He will do well to consult the directions on 
these particulars given in the preliminary chapter. The 
stages from Christiansand are as follows : — 



1 Mosby . . . . 1 

Elomsmoen . . . . ] .j 

Eejersdal . . . . 1 

^ Hssgeland' . . . . 1^ 

Moe .. .. H 

^ Eabret, in Hordnaes . . | 
^ Gruldsmedmoen, or Senuni . . 2 

Langerak . . . . 1 

Aakhuus, in Bygland . . \\ 

Eroisnses . , . . 1^ 

^ Langeid . . . . 1 

^ Rysjestad . . . . 1-^ 

Bjige, near Elarenden . . 1-^ 

Valle, in SsDtersdalen . . 1 



TO THE HAEDANGEE AND BEEGEK, 



351 



® Bykle 
Vatndal 

® Guggedal, or Aarhus, in Suledal 
Gautetun . . 
Botten 

Horre, in Eoldal 

Seljestad 

Skare 

Hildal 



Bjorneraa 



1 

2 
3 



3, 
4 

O 



1. 

2 



Bustetun, near Odde . 



2 
1 

1 
1 



33|]Sr.m. 2341- E.m 



Por the continuation of this route from Odde, on the Sor 
branch of the Har danger-Fjord, to Bergen by Vossevangen, 
see Route 5. 

^ Mosby. — Here the high road leaves the Torris-Elv to 
the right, and crossing some steep ridges, before reaching the 
next station it passes through park-like scenery, green slopes 
dotted with woods. 

^ Hcegeland, — After threading a chain of small lakes, the 
road here reaches the foot of the Eile-Fjord, a long, narrow 
strip of water into which the Torris-Elv expands. 

^ Fabret in HordncBs. — The road follows the windings of 
the lake northwards for about 18 English miles to this station, 
the scenery improving, and becoming peculiarly Norwegian, 
and highly romantic. 

* At Guldsmedmoen, the road crosses the Torris-Elv, and 
for upwards of 20 English miles^ coasts the Aardals or 
By gland-Fjord, first on the right and afterwards on the 
left bank. This is also a narrow sheet of water, the very 
perfection of picturesque beauty, while all around is in a 
high style of wild and savage grandeur. 

^ Langeid. — Half way from Froisnaes, the road, leaving 
the head of the By gland-Fjord, again follows the Torris-Elv, 
rapidly approaching the gorges of the mountains, the pine- 
covered sides of which inclose the head of the Fjord. 

^ Bysjestad. — The Torris, here called the Otteren, Elv, 
flows through a deep valley among mountains which rise to 
the height of 3000 to 4000 feet ; the scenery of the wildest 
and most magnificent character. 



2a 



852 EOXJTE II. — CHIIISTIANSA5TD, BY S^TEESDALEN, 

Valle in Scetersdalen, — The natives of this sequestered 
district preserve, in much of their original purity, the cos- 
tume, manners, and customs of ancient times. The former, 
however, is now only displayed in all its glory on bridal and 
other great occasions. At the marriage-feast it was usual 
for the bridegroom, on returning from church, to cut with all 
his strength one of the rafters in the hall, where the notch 
remained to future years to show his prowess, and that he 
had not degenerated in the use of his father's sword. A 
blue jacket and several waistcoats of a bright colour are 
worn, the outermost having silver buttons. The black 
breeches are kept up by a yellow leather belt, called the 
brass belt, from the number of brass buckles and buttons 
rivetted close to each other. From this is suspended a 
double sheath, containing a knife and kind of fork, used for 
a weapon. The most peculiar article in the female costume 
is the stately Tjeld, a large piece of white wadmel (of home 
manufacture), two yards in length and the same in breadth, 
with red and yellow borders wove in. It is thrown round 
the shoulders in tasteful folds, and gathered under the left 
arm. This article of dress reminds one of the plaid of the 
Scotch, and the red and white whittle of the Welch moun- 
taineers. The road is less rugged after leaving Valle, though 
constantly ascending, the river being now only a stream, such 
as the Derwent at Matlock, or the Dee in Mar Forest. 
The route is impracticable for carriages beyond Valle. 

At Hommeland, ^ mile Norsk beyond Valle, the tourist who 
does not further pursue this route to Bergen, having ob- 
tained a guide at Valle, will cross the mountains in his way 
into Telemarken to a farm called Bondal, upwards of 20 
English miles from Valle. About 10 miles beyond, he will 
fall in at Lillestuen with a regular station road, which will 
bring him by Veum (1| Norsk mile) and the head of the 
Vraa-vand to Nardal, on the north shore of the Bandags- 
vand (3 Norsk miles), and at Hoidalsmoen (1^ Norsk 
mile), into the post road, Eoute 4. But the toin'ist is 
recommended to fall down the Vraa-\and to Mden in 
Vraadal, where he will join Eoute 3. 

^ Bykle. — The traveller who pursues this route to the 
Hardanger-Fjord and Bergen has a most dreary road before 
him. At Bykle, a village in a wide valley between two ranges 
of lofty mountains, he will leave for a time all signs of cul- 



TO THE HAUDANGEE AKD BERGETT. 



358 



tivation and human habitation. The road still leads north 
for about 10 English miles, following the course of the 
Torris-Elv, now a mountain torrent ; it then turns abruptly 
to the west, up one of its tributary streams, which flows 
from a chain of narrow tarns, or mountain lakes, in Vatndal, 
which the road coasts. 

® Aarhus. — Descending into Suledalen, the Suledal-vand, 
a large sheet of water is crossed to Grautetun. 

Horre. — Here Koute 4 is joined, which see for the 
continuation of the route to Bergen. 



ROUTE III. 

CHEISTIANSAND, BY AEENDAL, TO THE TELEMARKEN AOTD EJUKAN-EOSS. 

This route is little known or frequented, but it opens a 
ready access from the south coast to some of the most 
delightful and striking scenes in the south of Norway. Soon 
after leaving the town of Arendal, it follows the course of 
the Nid, a fine river, to its magnificent Falls, not far from 
the foot of the Nisser-Vand. This noble lake, running due 
north and south, 30 English miles, is ascended to its northern 
extremity at Moen, from whence there are regular stations 
and a good post-road to Sundbo in Lomodden, [^^ee Excur- 
sion in Telemarken, in Route 4,] and so on to Tinoset, where 
our present route joins others, which there converge towards 
the Ejukan-Eoss, and onward to the Har danger- Ej eld and 
the Voring-Eoss. The Norwegian government was so sen- 
sible of the importance of this line of communication with 
the interior, which has long been used for conveying goods 
on pack-horses, that a few years since it caused a good road 
to be formed through part of the route, which was before 
impassable for wheel-carriages. A carriole may now be 
taken as far as Tinoset, where it may be left till the 
traveller returns to that point from his excursion to the 
!Rjukan-Eoss, if he purposes then, in the shorter tour sug- 
gested, to take Eoute 15 to Christiania ; but it will be 
useless, after Tinoset, if he follows out Eoute 4 to the 
westward. There is no difficulty in the case to tourists 
who, on occasion, can perform part of their journeys on foot,. 

2 a2 



854 KOTJTE III. — CHEISTIAKSAKD, BT AEEKDAL, 



in cars, or on horseback, and are suitably equipped. In the 
present route the tourist may still go by the steam-boat 
from Christiansand to Arendal, the least interesting part of 
the road, or according to a former suggestion, he may land 
at the latter port. 



Kostol, in Tvede . . 
Aabel, in Eirkenses 
Tvede, in ditto . . 
Moglestue, in "West Moland 
Landvig, near Gteimstad 
Bringsvserd, in Fjaere 
Laerrestvedt, in Oiestad 
Abendal (Bloddekjser) . . 
Brsekke, in East Moland 
Ubergsmoen 
Uxvatten 
Tveit, in Omlid 
Oy 

Houjsgasund. . 
Tveitsund, in Treungen 
Bakka, in Nissidal 
Moen, in Vraadal 
Spjotsodden, in Hvidso. . 
Omthveit 

Midbo, in Lomodden , . 
Sundbo 

Mselandsmo, in Hjerdal 
Sauland, in ditto . . 
Kroshuus . . 
Tinoset 



If 

5 



3. 
4. 
5 



|- Pay for 1} m. 



4 
7. 

8 

If 
If 

H 

1 
1 

2 
2 
1 
1 

■■■8 



14- 



31|- K m. 223|- E. m. 

^ Aeendal is pleasantly situated at the head of one of 
the branches of a small Ejord, the water of which is so deep, 
that large vessels lie close to the quays, and in the coves of the 
rocky harbour. The Nid-elv discharges itself into the fjord. 
Arendal is a busy place for trade and ship-building. A 
good hotel has been lately opened by Mr. Anthony Sandberg, 
close to the water. 



TO THE TELEMAEKEN AKD EJUEIAK-EOSS. 



355 



^ Uhergsmoen. — The route follows the high road along the 
coast between Christiansand and Brevig, to near this station. 
(Eoute 4.) The new road turns off at Holt, and passing the 
extensive iron foundries at JSTses, and a small lake, crosses 
an undulating country, through fine forest scenery. 

^ Tveit, in Omlid. — A boat may be procured near the 
prseste-gaard, or parsonage, and the Nid-elv, which is here 
as broad as the Thames at Eichmond, ascended for a Norsk 
mile. Tveit is a good resting place after a day's journey 
from Arendal, and there are fair accommodations. 

* Hoiijsgasund. — Here the new road passes close to the 
Falls of the Nid, the rocks having been blasted, and the 
road conducted to the level above the Falls with great engi- 
neering skill. There are three falls, one of which, though 
not of great depth, is very magnificent, from the immense 
Volume of water, and the accessaries of rocks and woods. 
They are on a grand scale, and it is curious to see the pine 
logs, floated down from the forests far up the country, 
which are dashed over the ledge of rocks, and carried down 
the stream to the port of Arendal. 

^ At Tveitsund a boat is taken for the navigation of the 
Nisser-vand. This noble lake, lying out of the usual 
routes, has been little visited. It is about thirty English 
miles long by two or three miles broad, and being inclosed 
on both sides by almost perpendicular cliff's of vast eleva- 
tions, broken only by overhanging forests of pine ; its fea- 
tures, though sombre, are very magnificent. 

^ Bakka, — The mountains here recede from the shore, and 
inclosing the green pastures and corn land of jST issidal with 
the church and village in a vast semi-circular sweep, again 
approach and shut in the lake, the scenery of which, after 
being thus enlivened, becomes still more bold as the head of 
the lake is approached, when a distant chain of mountains, 
far in the N. W., comes into view. 

^ Landing at Moen, or JEidstuen, horses and cars can be 
procured, after some delay, to prosecute the journey. At 
the next stage, the Hvidso-vand is crossed by a ferry; amass 
of mountain, 4,000 feet high, towering over the ferry, and 
the scenery of mountain, forest, and water, being very fine. 

Spjotsodden is a station of the new steam-boat on the 
Hvidso-vand, and other w^aters connected with it, of which 



356 EOUTE IT. — CHEISTIA^^SAIS^D, BY SKIEN, 

advantage may be taken either for continuing the route, or for 
very pleasant excursions. By ascending the Bandaks-vand 
to Lardal and Dalen, the tourist can join Koute 4 at Ofte, 
and either follow that route to the westward, or reach the 
valleys of Telemarken by an easy detour, meeting the pre- 
sent route at Omthveit. The Laurmand, or provincial judge, 
at Dalen, is a most intelligent and obliging person, and 
is willing to give advice and assistance to travellers. Pur- 
suing our route from Spjotsodden, after ascending a steep 
hill, the journey will be pursued rapidly, through an undu- 
lating country, to Lomodden, on the Sillejord-vand, where 
decent accommodations are found at Midhb, Por notices 
on the route from this place, see Eoute 4. 



ROUTE IV. 

CHEISTIANSAND, BY SKIEN AND THE TELEMAEKEN, TO BERGEN ; WITH 
BRANCHES TO THE RJUKAN-FOSS, THE HARDANaER-EJELD, &C. 

This route, or selected portions of it, will answer the pur- 
pose of tourists, with limited time, who landing at Christian- 
sand, or any port to the east of it, may wish to carry 
out the plan for a short tour previously suggested. It would 
be desirable to purchase a carriole for the first part of the 
journey, which might be parted with at Porsgrund or Skien, 
without any great loss ; it can be of little use afterwards, 
unless it is intended to take the post-road from Skien to 
Bergen, and even then it would be of no use further than 
Vinje, where it could not be disposed of. This way of pene- 
trating into Telemarken by the newly-established steam- 
boats on the Nordso and the Hvidso, and thence proceed- 
ing to the E]ukan-Eoss, will be found very convenient. 
Calculations should be made with reference to the departure 
of the steamboats, and the forbud to Skien dispatched 
by post, that there may be no delay in getting rapidly over 
the least interesting portion of the route. If the tourist 
finds himself incumbered with luggage unsuitable to the 
prosecution of his plans, he can easily forward all super- 
fluities from Porsgrund to Christiania, to wait his arrival 
there. The stations as far as Arendal are given in Eoute 3. 



Aim THE TELEMAEKEIT, TO BEEGEN". 



357 



Arekdal • • 


* 








Ersekke, in East Moland 


7 
8 


Pay for li 


m. 


Angelstad, in Holt 


H 


55 


H 


m. 


West Eoed 


.. li 


55 


If 


m. 


Holt, or East Eoed 


H 


55 




m. 


Humlestad 


.. li 








Odegaarden 


5. 




1 


m. 


Eosland 


.. 4 


55 


li 


m 


Utgaarden . . 


3 
4 








^ Breyig 


3. 

• 4 


55 


1 


m. 


^ PORSaRUND 


li 
4 










3. 

• • 4. 








^ Ejserstrand 


1. 
4- 








Bergane 


1 








Namlos . . • • 


1 








Xundefaret • • 


It 

4. 








Nordbo 


1^ 

2 








Skakevje . • 


IJL 

• • 8 








Nses 


1 








Sundbo 


3. 

• • 4. 








Lomodden 


7. 
8 








Omthveit • • 


.. 1 








Berge 


1 

<> 








Hoidalsmoen 


- li 








Ofte . . 










Leerlid . . 


• • -^8 








® Vinje 


1^ 

8 








Nordgaard 


13. 
• • 4 








Grugaard 
^ Horre, in Eoldal . . 


14- 

8 








6 








CI 1 * ^ T 

ISeljestad . . 


2 








Skare . « 


.. 1 








' Hildal . . 


1 








Bustetun (Odde) 


.. 1 










48i 


N. m. 


336f 


E. 



^ Brevig and Porsgrund are small towns on the left bank 
of the Langosund, a broad inlet of the sea, which gives them 
advantages for a considerable trade. A ferry is crossed from 
Strathelle to Brevig, and there is a steam-boat from Brevig 



358 EOIJTE IV. — CHBISTIANSAl^n), BY SKIEK, 

to Skien. Brevig stands in a beautiful district among hills. 
Porsgrund has two divisions, one on the mainland, the other 
on an island, connected with it by a drawbridge. 

^ SMen^ at the head of the Langosund, one of the oldest 
towns in Norway, is also a place of trade, increased by the 
new steam communications on the inland waters. By means 
of these and the sea-going steam-ships, the tourist can now 
proceed by water all the way (except a short passage of less 
than \ Norsk mile) from England into the heart of the 
finest scenery in the south of Norway. 

^ Fjcer strand, — This is the station for the steam-boats on 
the Nordso, mentioned presently. The route follows for 
some distance its right bank, and might be varied by taking 
the steam-boats to its head, 1\ Norsk miles from the station 
of Nordbo, or the boat will land the tourist at a station from 
whence, by crossing \ Norsk mile, to the Flaa-vand, where 
the steam-boat, on that lake and the Hvidso-vand and Ban- ' 
daks-vand, will convey him to Dalen, mentioned in Eoute 3. 
The scenery towards the head of these lakes, where the 
mountains close in upon them, is very magnificent. 

* Lomodden, — There are fair accommodations at Midbo, 
not far from the station. Lomodden is in the centre of the 
district of Telemarken, for which see particulars in the 
" Excursion" which follows this Eoute. 

^ Omthveit, — The road now becomes very hilly, and the 
country wild ; but there are magnificent views of the moun- 
tains to the wxst, part of the great Hardanger chain. 

^ Vinje, — Here the track subsequently pointed out from 
Dal and the Ejukan-Eoss joins this Eoute. 

' Gugaard. — Carriages cannot proceed beyond this sta- 
tion, at which there are good quarters. From some of the 
maps and road-books the tourist might be led into the 
error of supposing that the post-road is continued all the 
way to Horre in Eoldal ; but soon after leaving Gugaard, a 
vast elevation is reached, and the road, a mere track, passes 
over almost continuous fields of snow for forty miles. As it 
is desirable to efiect the passage of this elevated plateau in a 
single day, the best plan is to obtain quarters for the night 
at a farm called Voodid, about 4 Norsk miles from Gugaard, 
at the foot of the ascent, where there is, at least, hos- 
pitable entertainment, and the farmer, who is an excel- 



TO THE TELEMAEKEN A]S"D BEEGEIS^. 



359 



lent fellow and experienced guide, will furnisli horses for 
passing the fjeld. If the traveller be fortunate in the wea- 
ther, he will descend, at the end of the next day's journey, 
into the charming valley of Eoldal, at which village he will 
find good entertainment at the house of Mr. Svend. The 
prsesten, Eev. Mr. A. Mohr, is also very obliging. 

^ Erom Horre there are regular stations to Bustetun, at the 
foot of the Sor-Ejord, the southern branch of the Hardanger- 
Ijord ; but between Horre and Seljestad there is again a 
spur of the mountain to be crossed at the snow level. 
Descending to ^ Hildal, where there are good accommo- 
dation, with excellent Hardanger ale, the views of the Folge- 
fond Grlacier and the Fjord are magnificent. Indeed, the 
whole route from Eoldal is full of interest. Por its con- 
tinuation to Bergen, see Eoute 5. 



EEANCHES PEOM EOUTE IV TO THE VALLEYS OP TELEMAEKEN AN^D TO 
THE EJUKAN-EOSS, &C. 

These excursions form part of the short tour suggested. 
They are facilitated by the steam-boats lately established on. 
the Nordso, which have their station at rjserstrand, near 
Skien, in the present route. According to the latest accounts, 
they start from rjserstrand every Monday, Tuesday, and 
Wednesday at 2 p.m., and on Eriday and Saturday at 7 a.m., 
accomplishing the voyage in about six hours. The steam- 
boats return from Hitterdal on Tuesday, Wednesday, and 
Thursday at 5 a.m., and on Eriday and Saturday at 3 p.m. 

1. ExcuEsioN 11^ Telemaeken. 

Landing at Hitterdal, the tourist will examine with in- 
terest the curious church, the best specimen of the ancient 
Norwegian churches, supposed to have been erected in the 
llth or 12th century on Byzantine or Eomanesque models. 
They are built of pine timber, notwithstanding which the 
general effect is massive. The details are elaborate; rounded 
apses to the chancels, transepts, chapels and porches, 
exterior cloistered galleries, lofty spires or cupolas, all richly 
ornamented with encircled crosses on the gables, and 



360 



EOTJTE lY. — EXCrBSIOK IKTO THE 



dragons' heads carved in bold relief projecting from the 
angles, break the general outline with picturesque variety. 

At the station of Smn^ in Hitterdal, Route 15, from. 
Christiania by Drammen and Kongsberg to Tinoset, is 
joined. Here the tourist, who has time to spare, may make 
an agreeable excursion into the valleys of Telemarken. The 
stations from Ssem are KaasaX^^"^^ niile up the picturesque 
valley of Hitterdal (the lower valley,) Sauland, | mile, where 
there is a decent inn, and an excellent store kept by Herr 
Hoist ; Mcelandsmd, 1\ mile, in Hjerdal (the higher valley) 
which the road ascends, it becoming wdlder at every step, till 
it crosses an elevated pass, to Sundlo, 1\ mile, where a horse- 
track leads into Tlatdal. The road then descends a most 
romantic valley, in which there is a small lake, and over 
which towers the Lee-Fjeld, 4600 feet high, and passing the 
church of Sillejord, embowered in woods, reaches Lomodden, 
\ mile ; the whole distance from Seem being 36 English 
miles. 

The Telemarken is one of the most charming districts in 
Norway, the most picturesque scenery being combined with 
great fertility in the lower valleys. The peasants appear to 
be in good circumstances ; their costume is peculiar. The 
men wear a short jacket of a military cut, ornamented with 
silver lace and rows of small bright buttons ; breeches of a 
dark colour, seamed with red, and woollen stockings, (the 
clocks of which are brilliantly worked,) with a redcap. The 
vest of the women is either of a bright colour, or gaudily 
braided ; the petticoat is dark, the hem gaily trimmed with 
a worsted lace of red or yellow. Their head dress is a 
coloured kerchief, the ends of which hang down the back. 
Both sexes wear large brooches, and shoe-buckles, of silver. 

Many of the Telemarken farmers are wealthy, and they 
are famed for their hospitality. On all the farms in the 
higher valleys of Norway a much greater stock of cattle is 
wintered than the home pastures will feed in summer. 
In the early part of July these are driven to the Sseters on 
the lower Fjelds, a distance of sometimes 40 or 50 miles, where 
the attendants, generally the girls of the family, take up their 
abode in huts built of logs or rough stones, like the chalets 
on the Alps, and employ themselves in tending the cattle 
and converting the cows' milk into butter and cheese. 



YALLETS OF TELEMABKEK. 



861 



Wild as are these vast solitudes, it is often a season of mirth, 
and gaiety, especially when a number of young people 
assemble from dilferent sseters on a Saturday or Sunday 
evening. Then a fiddler seats himself on a block of stone, 
and they dance to tunes which vary from melancholy to gay. 
Often the cows form a circle round, and wanton kids and 
lambs intervene in the mazes of the dance. And not the 
cattle only thus intrude. The Scandinavian legends tell of 
the Hidder, a mysterious being who is found in mountains 
and forests over the whole country. She is believed some- 
times to join in the dance of the young people. Then all 
the lads are eager to dance with the handsome strange girl 
in the blue petticoat {stale) and white handkerchief on her 
head, as long as they have not discovered the ugly cow's-tail 
hanging down under her gown. All are not so discreet as 
one young fellow, who, having discovered the cow's-tail 
during the dance by which he knew at once with whom he 
was dancing, although much frightened would not betray his 
partner, but bade her beware with these words, " Fair maid, 
your garters are unloosed." Suddenly she disappeared, 
but afterwards she rewarded his forbearance with rich 
gifts, and made his flocks increase. The return from the 
excursion may be varied by boating down the Sillejord- 
vand to the station at Skakevje, (Eoute 4), and thence 
joining the steam-boat at Naes on the Nordso. Returning 
to Ssem, in Hitterdal, and proceeding with the short tour 
before sketched out, the Ejukan-Foss becomes now the 
main object. 



2. EXCUESION TO THE EJUKAN-FOSS. 

There is a good station-road from Saom as far as Tinoset, 
at the foot of the Tind-so. At this station a boat wiU be pro- 
cured, and the tourist, embarking on the lake, will navigate 
it -for about 25 English miles to nearly its northern ex- 
tremity, and, landing at McbI, wiU follow a horse-track up the 
valley of the Maan-Elv, or Westfjordalen, to the Eoss. The 
following are the stages all the way from Porsgrund, where 
this route leaves the great western post-road. Observe also 



362 



EOUTE lY. — EXCURSIOIT 



that 'Route 15 connects this excursion with Chrtstiania, should 
the tourist proceed from thence^ joining the 'present Moute at 
Tinoset. 

Porsgrund to Skien . . f 

Pjser strand . . ... \ 

Ssem, in Hitterdal . . 4^ on the Nord-so. 

Kaasa . . . . f 

^ Tinoset . . • • li 

2 Mael, in Westf jordalen . . 8i on the Tind-so. 

^ Dsel, in ditto * . . . . li 

^ Ejukan-Foss . . 1 

13i K m. 92f E. m. 



Upwards of 60 English miles of this route being per- 
formed by water with great facility, the rest of the journey 
may well be accomplished on horseback, or on foot ; but 
from Ssem to Tinoset, the country cars may be used. 

^ The Tind-so is a magnificent lake, nearly 30 miles 
long, by from 2 to 4 broad. It is inclosed by lofty moun- 
tains, particularly towards its northern extremity, where 
it runs up to the very foot of the Tind-Ejeld and Tessun- 
Ejeld. Escarped cliffs rise perpendicularly from the water to 
elevations of 4000 or 5000 feet, and in other places tangled 
forests clothe their flanks to the water's edge. These 
sombre . features are occasionally enlivened by small farms, 
with their picturesque buildings of pine logs, and green slopes 
and patches of cultivated land, rescued from the surrounding 
waste. 

M(jel. — On landing here, there is a small house of re- 
freshment ; but the accommodations are of the most wretched 
description. 

^ Dcel, in the valley of Westfjordalen, which is ascended 
from Mael. The track follows the course of the Maan-elv, 
which runs, full and rapid, through a narrow margin of green 
meadow, shut in by the almost perpendicular ranges, and 
divided by the folds of the mountains; the channel of the 
river being broken by fairy islands of level greensward, tufted 
with dwarf birch, a spiral spruce fir occasionally breaking 
the softer outline. About midway, the Grousta-Ejeld, streaked 



TO THE EJTJKAlS--rOSS. 



863 



with snow, and towering above the valley to the height of 
5,540 feet, bursts on the view. The gieste-lmus, or — gaard, 
at Dsel, has been lately enlarged for the accommodation of 
tourists, who will find in it much comfort and attention. 
Grousta-Fjeld may be ascended, with some fatigue, though 
without any serious difficulty. Being the only insulated 
mountain peak in this part of Norway, the views are ex- 
tensive and magnificent. There is a track to Dsel over the 
plateau of Gousta-Fjeld from Souland (see Excursion in 
Telemarken), which may be taken with advantage by the 
pedestrian tourist, if his plans do not enable him to make a 
more extensive acquaintance with the Norwegian Fjelds. 
The track leads by the little mountain lake of the Tudal-vand 
to the foot of the peak of Grousta-Fjeld, an ascent of 
2000 feet. The descent into the valley at Dsel is easy ; the 
whole distance being about 18 English miles. In that case 
the tourist might return by the Tind-so. — (See " Norway and 
its Scenery," p. 98.) 

* JRjukan-Foss. — Horses can be procured at Dsel for a visit 
to the Eoss ; but as the distance is only about 7 English 
miles, and the path not fatiguing, active travellers will not 
require them. Nor is a guide wanting, as it is impossible to 
deviate from the windings of the deep valley. Eollowing 
the course of the river, which becomes an impetuous torrent, 
with continual rapids and cataracts, the thunders of the Eall 
speedily announce the approach to it. No short account 
of the Ejukan Eoss — no words, indeed — can do it justice. 
The tourist will judge for himself; but its, perhaps, unri- 
valled grandeur has been admitted by all who have seen it. 
The height of the Eall has been variously estimated at from 
450 to 900 feet. Its volume of water is very great ; the river 
Maan, which here discharges itself into the valley in a single 
leap, being the drain of the waters of the Mjos Yand, a lake 
80 miles in length, whose level is 2100 feet above the Eall ; 
w^hile the river itself, during a course of 50 miles before it 
enters the lake, receives numerous streams fed by the springs 
and melted snows on the fjelds, and connects a chain of lakes 
and tarns, inexhaustible reservoirs high up in the hollows of 
the mountains. — (See Norway and its Scenery," p. 93.) 

The usual point for a near view of the Eoss is from a little 
grassy platform which juts out from the right bank, at about 



864 ROUTE IT. — FEOM THE EJUKAIsT-EOSS, OYER THE 

two-thirds of its height. It is reached b j diverging from the 
horse-road, and clambering for a mile or two over a succession 
ol woody ridges. From this point it is not verj difficult to 
scramble down through the wood, and gain a view of the Fall 
from below. There is also a track called the Marie Stein to 
the level above, but it should not be ventured on without a 
guide. 



3. FkOM the RjUKAN-FoSS, OVEE the HAEDANaEB-FjELD 

TO Odde and Bergen. 

Travellers who confine themselves to the shortest of the 
tours before suggested have no alternative but to return down 
the valley of the Maan-elv, and embarking on the Tind-so, 
proceed to Kongsberg and Christiania by Route 15. Those, 
however, who wish to combine an excursion to the E^jukan 
Foss with a more extended tour to the western Fjords, or to 
Bergen, will find themselves, when far advanced to the west- 
ward at the Foss, in the dilemma of having either to retrace 
their steps for 80 or 90 miles, or, taking a direct course, of 
having to encounter the fatigues and privations attendant 
on crossing the Har danger- Fj eld. This enterprise, how- 
ever, should only be undertaken in the proper season (not 
earlier than the month of July), and by travellers properly 
equipped, and who are resolute and hardy, and little fastidious 
in regard to their comforts. They must also secure ex- 
perienced guides. At Dsel they will meet with some one to 
conduct them as far as the foot of the range, where they may 
be able to procure another guide acquainted with the pass 
they select. ' There are several of these only known to 
hunters of the reindeer and to peasants who have sseters on 
the Fjelds. All the tracks across the mountains debouch on 
the Har danger-Fjord, and the tourist will have to decide 
whether he prefers taking the southern pass, and striking the 
fjord at Odde, near the Folgefond Glacier^ or crossing the 
Fjeld in the direction of Eidfjord, in the immediate neighbour- 
hood of the Voring-Voss; both first rate objects of attraction. 
There is an intermediate track issuing at Ullensvang, which 
appears to present great difficalties, and has no particular 
object in its termination. For ordinary tourists the southern 



HAEDAKGER TO ODDE AND BERaElS'.. 



365 



pass is recommended, as by far the least difficult ; and 
although it will take more time, it will place them in a 
position ot being able to make an easy excursion to the 
Yoring-Poss in their subsequent passage up the Hardanger- 
Pjord. The other, however, has the advantage of being a 
direct route towards the Voring-ross, and of saving time 
and distance, if they propose extending their tour to the 
Sogne-Ejord and districts still further to the northward. 

The southern route falls in with Eoute 4 at Finje, The 
stages from Dsel are as follows : — 

Dael to Holvig, diverging to the 

Ejukan-Foss, say . . 4 N. miles. 

Gaardsjord . . 3 

Eosthveit . . . . y across the Totak-vand. 

Vinje . . . • 1 

To bdde, by Eoute 4 . . 13|- 

22| ]Sr. m. 156i E. m. 



The distance by the horse track from Dael to Vinje is 
therefore about 60 English miles. The track, after gaining 
the summit level above the Ejukan-Foss leads south-west 
over upland moors to a lone farm, called Holvig, on the 
Mjos-vand, which is in some respects the most interesting 
of the Norwegian lakes. — (See "Norway and its Scenery," 
p. 22.) The lake, which is there narrow, being crossed, 
the next point to be made, over a most dreary country, 
is Gaardsjord, on the Totak-vand, which has also to be 
crossed to Eosthveit. There is a farm called Hooe, on 
the shore of the Mjos-vand, opposite Holvig, where English 
travellers have passed the night ; but the accommodations at 
most of these farms are wretched. The object, therefore, 
should be to reach, before night, Gaardsjord, where the 
country improves. Its situation is lovely, and either there 
or at Eosthveit tolerable accommodations may probably be 
found at one of the farms. It is an easy march from thence 
to Vinje, where the station road is joined. 



360 EOUTE lY. — EEOM THE EJUKA1?"-F0SS, OYER THE 



4. Feom the Rjukait-Foss, oyeb the HABDAisraEE TO Eid-Fjoed 

AND THE VOEING-FOSS. 

This route is upwards of 130 Englisli miles. It may be 
accomplished in three days, including a visit to the Ejukan- 
Foss by the way. ^Reference should be made to the pre- 
liminary notice to the other passage of the Hardanger ; and 
see " Norway and its Scenery," p. 200. 

Horses may probably be procured at Dael for the first day's 
journey, after which they are taken for the whole of the 
passage. The two first nights are passed at mountain 
farms, where homely fare and hearty welcome will be found ; 
but the English tourist must not trust himself to the beds ; 
he may be content with a soft shake-down on the floor, com- 
posed of fresh birch or juniper spray, for one night, at least ; 
afterwards he will have to take shelter in a ledger or hovel, at 
an elevation far above all human habitations. The journey 
may be thus divided : — 

Dsel to Vaagen, a gaard or farm on the 
Mjos-Vand .. ..28 

Kevenna, a farm at the foot of the ascent 28 

To a Iceger or hut on the Ijeld near the 
Laagen-vand . . . . 42 

Saebo, in Eidfjord . . . . 85 

133 E. miles. 

The first day's journey conducts the tourist, after climbing 
the track already mentioned to the summit above the Ejukan- 
Eoss, over a level of upland moors to the head of the Mjos- 
vand. On the second day, he will thread the western shore of 
that lake, which is deep set in the bosom of lofty mountains, 
and one of the most striking scenes in Norway. On the 
third, he will ascend the Hardanger-Fjeld, to the elevation of 
perpetual snow, about 4,500 feet above the level of the sea, 
and follow his guide in the track across its vast and dreary 
plateau, to their inhospitable quarters for the night. The 
only living things he may chance to see wiU. be a herd of 
reindeer, or some of those singular little animals, the 
lemmings. Views may be obtained of the lofty dome of 



HAEDAIsaEE, TO EID-FJOBD ATO THE YOEING-EOSS. 367 

Hallings-Jokeleii, covered with snow, at a vast distance to 
tlie north-west, and of more distant ranges of mountains in 
that direction ; but, on the whole, from the great uniformity 
of its vast level, the Hardanger, as well as the other Tjelds, 
have little in common with alpine scenery. Arctic scenes 
can scarcely be more utterly desolate ; but desolation itself, 
on such an extended scale, is striking and august. On the 
fourth day, if favoured by the weather, the traveller may 
hope to fall in early with waters descending to the ISTorthern 
Ocean; and, reaching sseters on the flanks of the Fjeld, where 
milk m.ay be procured, he will accomplish the descent to 
Eidfjord before night. 

At Sceld, near the foot of the pass, there is a giestegiver- 
gaard^ where tolerable accommodations are oftered: the 
tourist may think them excellent after those of the preceding 
nights. Erom Ssebo the Voring-Foss may be visited in a day's 
excursion, it lying about 1 Norsk mile east from Ssebo. The 
horse track to it is rugged and difficult, being carried up a 
deep and narrow glen between escarped cliffs of great eleva- 
tion, with a furious torrent crossed by alpine bridges which 
are rather trying to the nerves. The ascent from this valley 
to the level above the Fall is very steep. As to the Voring- 
Poss itself, it may be conceived what a fall of the river, in a 
single column of water 900 feet deep, among cliffs and pre- 
cipices of the sternest and most gigantic character, must 
be. — (See " Norway and Scenery," p. 99.) For a track across 
the Fjeld to Ulvig, on leaving the Foss, which the enter- 
prising tourist may take on his road to the Sogne-Fjord, 
see Eoute 7. 



ROUTE V. 

ODDE OlS THE SOE-FJOED TO BEEaE?T. 

This is a continuation of Eoutes 3 and 4, as well as of the 
two branches connected with Eoute 4; all of which terminate 
at Odde, except the last, which joins this Eoute by a stage on 
the water from Eidfjord to Eide. 

Before leaving Odde, the tourist should make an excursion 
to the glacier of the Folgefonden, which is so magnificent an 

2b 



^68 OIOIJTE Y. — FEOM ODDE, 01^ TnE SOR-EJOED, 



object on the road from Hildal, and from this branch of the 
Hardanger-Fjord, The greatest elevation is 5,440 feet ; but 
the principal feature is its vast range, extending for 40 miles 
in a direction north and south, and 14 miles across, in its 
widest part. — (See " Norway audits Scenery," p. 103.) 

The greater part of Route 5 is accomplished in boats ; the 
water stations being marked thus There are settled 
rates, as in the case of the land service, for which see the 
Tables at the end of the volume, and the directions given in 
the preliminary chapter. 

^ * Helleland, in Ullensvang 
2 ^IJtne 



=*Eide.. 

* Nether Vassenden 
Over Yassenden 
Yossevangen 
Plage 

* Evanger 

* Bolstadoren 
Dalseidet . . 

* Dalevaagen 

* G-arnsDs 
Hauge 
Beegek . . 



1 
1 



7. 
8 
3. 
4. 

JL 

2 

X 

2 
5. 

8 



151- K m. 



110i:E. m. 

^ Vllensvang, a large village, is seen to great advantage from 
the Ejord, nestling among woods, which, with green slopes 
and cultivated lands, occupy a wide sweep beneath an amphi- 
theatre of the mountains. A little further, the village of 
Kinservig is passed on the same shore, lying nearly opposite 
the station of tJtne. 

The tourist, in ascending the Sor-Ejord, is in the heart of 
the Hardanger, a wide district comprising the three large 
parishes of Kinservig, Graven, and Vigoer, with others. The 
people here have preserved the ancient Norwegian sim- 
plicity, as well in their manners and customs as in their 
whole way of living. They exhibit a remarkable frugality 
in eating and drinking, and, like their ancestors, seldom or 
never eat fish or meat, unless smoked or salted ; when fresh, 



TO BEEGEIT. 



369 



tliey are unpalatable to their taste. The dwelling of the 
poorer peasant is a Bogstue, or smoke-cabin, with an opening 
in the roof. Here, as in the olden time, the " house-father" 
occupies the Hoi-swde, high chair or place of honour, which 
he yields to none of his own rank. There are many rich 
farmers in the Hardanger who practise the same simplicity 
of manners in their ordinary way of living as those of ; 
less substance, and exhibit their wealth in hospitality to 
strangers. These are entertained with the best cheer the ] 
house can afford ; the Ojceste-stuer, the stranger's chamber, 
is exclusively devoted to the reception of travellers, and the 
"house-father," otherwise so proud himself, attends his 
guest, it being his pleasure and pride to practise this hospi- 
tality ; and he would be greatly offended by the offer of 
payment, instead of a hearty shake of the hand. Their 
ideas of chastity and pure morals are very severe ; only girls 
of spotless fame are allowed to go bare-headed, those of 
doubtful reputation are obliged to wear a white handkerchief 
of a different fashion from the head-dress of married women, 
and called the Skaut-Slcampled^ or cloth of shame. Some of 
the ancient customs are still maintained in their courtship. 
The lover makes his wishes known to the father or guardian, 
and the answer he receives, even if the offer be acceptable, 
is "Time will shew." He must wait some time before he 
asks again ; if favourably received, the suitor then speaks to 
the damsel, for the first time, without witnesses, and if she 
consents to his suit, they shake hands, and the alliance is 
concluded on. Sometimes, however, the suitor goes to the 
house at night with one of his friends ; he waits before the 
door while his companion wakes the girl. She invites them 
to the store-room, and regales them with a supper of beer 
and gammel-ost. The asssistant then pretends to go away, 
when the girl also struggles to make her escape, especially 
if she dislike the man. In former times, after the suitor 
had undergone the ordeal of the family scrutiny, his friend 
was sent to fetch the girl from her refuge in the hay-barn, 
where she was concealed under bundles of straw, or in a 
chest, and being stoutly defended by her maiden friends, 
there was a serious struggle before the prize was carried off. 
The peculiar dress of the women in the Hardanger is a 

2 B 2 



370 



EOUTE V. — ODDE, Olf THE SOR-EJORD, 



black wadmel jacket with a red boddice edged with worsted 
ribbons and silver lace ; a scarlet petticoat of wadmel 
(homespun) and a linen apron, with a red border. The 
men wear a red woollen cap, a white jacket of wadmel, with 
a red one underneath, a blue waistcoat with silver buttons ; 
and yellow leather breeches, embroidered up the seam, are 
fastened round the waist by a belt with a brass buckle; grey 
stockings with bright clocks. 

The Sor-Fjord is the southern branch of the great Har- 
danger-rjord, which, in its direct course from the foot of the 
Fjelds to the North Sea, is about 120 English miles in length, 
with a breadth of from 2 to 5 miles ; but its various ramifi- 
cations greatly increase its extent. Surrounded by lofty 
mountains, which for the most part descend precipitously to 
the water's edge, its general character is stern magnificence ; 
but the sterile features are relieved by great masses of forest, 
and occasionally by little smiling farms straggling up the 
lower slopes, and occupying every rood of available land with 
rich cultivation. 

^ A t Utne, where boats are changed, the main channel of 
the Fjord sweeps round in a sharp angle to the south-west, 
which course it keeps for about 70 English miles to the JN'orth 
Sea. About 30 Norsk miles down on the right bank, where 
the Ejord is called Samlen, stand two considerable villages, 
Vigoer and Ostenso ; and midway between them there is an 
inlet and little harbour at Noreim, from whence there is a 
track up the Steins-Dalen across the country to Bergen, 
passing by Aadland, near Samnanger and Trendereig, on the 
Oster-Ejord. There is a very fine Eall, the Ostud-Eoss, near 
Vigoer. The distance from Odde to Bergen is thus reduced 
to about 75 lEnglish miles ; but parts of the route are such 
as will try the traveller's patience. On a lower part of the 
channel, called the Quinherred-Ejord, the views of the Eolge- 
fonden glacier are said to be still more magnificent than 
those obtained from the Sor-Fjord; this enormous moun- 
tain of ice and snow filling the space between the two 
channels. 

^ Eide ; crossing from Utne to this station, the mouth of 
a deep inlet, the western branch of the Ejord leading to 
Eidfjord, is passed. Tourists who propose visiting the Voriug- 



TO BEEGEJ^*. 



871 



Foss on tliis ronte will take boat from TJtne to Vik in 
Eidfjord. From thence they may proceed to Laerdals-oren, 
either by Vossevangen, or by a track presently given in 
Eoute 7. 

* At Vossevangen, where there are good accommodations, 
the route joins the high road from Christiania to Bergen. 
Here the tourist who is taking the circuit I. 2, of those sug- 
gested in the preliminary observations, will turn eastward, 
taking the post-road over the Fille-Fjeld to Christiania (for 
which see Eoutes 9, 16), stopping, however, at Lierdals-oren, 
if he wishes to extend his excursions on the Sogne-Fjord. 
The road from this station, in the direction of Bergen, is 
carried along the bank of the Vangs-Vand. 

The strength and intrepidity of the men of Voss is cele- 
brated through the whole country. They were always a 
warlike and hardy race, renowned in the northern Sagas, 
and have maintained their character in the wars with 
Sweden even to the present century. Many a bloody fray 
has taken place within the walls of the well-known Skrump- 
strue, the ancient law-court on the Vangs-Vand. Those 
who have seen the men of Voss sitting round the hacked 
table in the hall, deeply marked with the blows of their 
hard fists, or preparing for fight, when they cast off their 
upper garment, and throwing themselves into plastic, but 
unstudied attitudes, display the fine shape and Herculean 
strength of their limbs, or, after a hard fight, not of passion, 
but of rivalry, grasp each other's hands in token of friendship, 
and wash their adversaries' wounds vdth brandy, will find in 
them the true sons of their iron fathers, who from the 8th to 
the 10th century were the terror of all Europe. Their 
costume is a black hat, with a white ribbon band ; the shirt 
front is open, displaying a silver cross and studs ; leather 
jacket and breeches, with a blue waistcoat of wadmel edged 
with red, and small silver buttons. They wear leather belts, 
from which are suspended the sheaths of their short knives, 
and red garters and tassels. The women wear the usual 
white linen head-dress, white sleeves, and collar, with a 
boddice of red wadmel. On the breast, besides silver studs, 
a large medallion is suspended by a chain. Bound the waist 
is a leather belt, with silver nails and buckles ; a blue calico 



372 



EOUTE VI. YII. — YOSSETAIS-GEN 



apron over a black plaited petticoat, and bright worsted 
stockings, reaching to the ankles, meeting the yellow socks 
with which, and with silver-buckled shoes, the feet are 
encased, complete the costume. 

^ Evanger stands at the head of a small but romantic 
lake, surrounded by lofty mountains. The traveller takes 
boat upon it for the next station, and between Bolstadoren 
and Dalseidet there is again a short passage by water on a 
narrow branch of the Oster-Fjord. 

^ At Dalevaagen travellers embark on this Fjord, which 
is navigated for about 18 English miles. The Fjord is about 
a mile, or a mile and a half, broad. The boats keep to the 
eastern shore, the mountains rising precipitously from the 
water's edge, except where there are slopes at the base, formed 
of the debris washed down from the upper regions. All these 
spots are occupied as small farms ; and when the people are 
busy with their hay, the green slopes and haycocks form 
charming objects among the dark ranges of woods and 
mountains. 

' Landing at Garnces, there are two stages to Bergen. 
The general character of the country is open moorland, ex- 
tremely hilly, with occasional fine views of distant mountains. 
There is also a fine view of Bergen, the Fjord, islands, and 
mountains, from a hill about a mile before entering the city. 
For an account of Bergen, see Eoute 1. 



II. CENTRAL GROUP.— EOUTE VI. 

VOSSEVANGEN TO LIEEDALS-OEEN. 

Considering Lierdals-oren as the centre of this group, 
the two following short routes are intended to connect the 
preceding routes from the south with that place ; and 
although Eoute 6 is a section of a longer one given else- 
where, it may be convenient to have this link supplied in its 
present place. It need hardly be remarked, that all these 
routes will equally serve travellers coming from the eastward, 
the order of the stations being reversed. 



A^B EIDFJOED TO LIEEDALS-OEEN. 373 

Vossevangen, Eoute 5, to Tvinde 1 

Vinje . . • • • • -8 

Stalheim . . . . 1 

Grudvangen • . • . 1| 

LiEEDALS-oEEN . . 5\ OH the Sogne-Fjord. 

9|- K m. 63^ E. m. 
Odde to Vossevangen 7} „ 50f „ 



16f „ 114i „ 
For remarks, and continuation to Bergen, see Eoute 16. 



ROUTE VII. 

illDFJOKD TO LIEEDALS-OREN BY UELAND. 

On leaving tlie Voring-Foss, a lightly-equipped and active 
tourist need not return to Ssebo and Vik ; but having pro- 
cured a guide, may pursue this direct route, following a 
track over high moors, from which he will obtain magni- 
ficent views of the summit of Hartiegen (5,500 feet,) and 
the dome of the Folgefonden, distant forty miles. He will 
pass near the Skyttie-Foss and the Eembis-Foss, two noble 
waterfalls. The track then winds by a sharp descent into 
the deep and dark valley of Simedal, which, shut in by cliffs 
3,000 feet high, leads down to the eastern fork of the 
Hardanger-Fjord. On the shore of this, near Ose, there is 
a hospitable farm, and the tourist can procure a boat to 
take him to Ulvig, about fifteen English miles, on the 
northern fork of the same fjord. From thence the horse- 
track across the fjeld to TJrland passes through charming 
scenery to upland farms, where tolerable accommodations 
are procured. It then ascends rapidly to an elevation of 
not less than 4,000 feet, commanding views of a vast range 
of snowy mountains, with Jokelen, 5,550 feet high, in the 
distance. Descending to the Eundals-Elv, the traveller may 
procure horses at a farm called Almindigen, and will descend 
into Kaardal, from which King Sverre effected his bold 
retreat, when forced by the men of Voss to retire into 



874 BOUTE YIIL — EXCTJESIOKS TO JUSTEDALEN, 



Hallingdal through the rugged passes where to this day 
" the path of Sverre" recalls the memory of those thnes. 
Still descending, the road falls into the fertile valley of 
Flaam-dalen, where some Bauta stones are to be seen, the 
records of battles fought in this district in very ancient 
times. At TJrland the tourist will be able to procure a boat 
to navigate the fjord to Lierdals-oren. 



Vik to the Yoring-Poss 


1^ 




Ose 


2 




Ulvig . . 


. 2 


by water. 


Almindigen, across the Fjeld 


4 


Plaam, ditto 






Urland 


1 




LlERDALS-OBEK . . 


. H 


by water. 




18i 


N.m. 129»-E.m. 



ROUTE VIII. 

HXCUESIONS FEOM LIEEDALS-OREN. 

LlerdrJs-oren, on a branch of the Sogne-Fjord, is an 
excellent resting-place for the tourist. Though the village 
itself is insignificant, there is a roomy and comfortable 
hotel, and he may here refit, and replenish his stores, for far- 
ther enterprises. The place is centrically situated as a 
starting point for several excursions. 

1. If the tourist arrives here without having visited the 
Ejukan-Foss, or the Voring-Foss, and other objects of in- 
terest connected with the Hardanger-Ejord, he will do well to 
mate arrangements for that purpose from hence, taking 
the reverse way such of the preceding routes, 4 to 7, as he 
may select. 

2. Excursion to the Justedal, 

Solvorn, on the Lyster-Fjord . . 2|- 

Eonneid, on the Graupne-Fjord 1^ 

Moklemyr, in Justedal 2 

Nygaard glacier . • 2 

7f K m. 54i E. m. 



AND THE AAEDALS FJOED. 



375 



The two first stages are performed in boats. Horses may 
be procured at Eonneid, but the road is so rugged, that it 
is better, for those who are able, to walk up the Justedal. 
Nygaard is the finest glacier, but there are others higher in 
the valley ; the Alpine scenery is throughout magnificent. 
There are no accommodations but such as the hospitality of 
the clergyman at the prseste-gaard may induce him to 
supply. From Nygaard there are horse-tracks to the north 
and east, the one leading into the road from Molde to 
Bergen, at Ealeidet, Eoute 10 ; the other to the Lia-Vand 
and Lom. 

3. Excursion up the Aar dais-Fjord. 

From Lierdals-oren to the head of the Aardals-Pjord is 
about two Norsk miles. At Aardal the Landhandler, or 
shopkeeper, an intelligent person, will assist the traveller as 
to obtaining a guide, &c. The first station recommended is 
the farm of Svaleim, about 10 English miles up the Aardals- 
Vand and Utnedal. FroDi thence the high Fjelds, on which 
reindeer are plentiful, may be ascended. Retracing his 
steps a little, the tourist will proceed up the Thy-Elv, 
through one of the grandest of Norwegian glens, in dis- 
tinction from the valley or dal ; the river forming a suc- 
cession of falls, second only to the Voring and Ejukan-Eoss. 
He must content himself with the shelter and dairy pro- 
duce which a sseter will supply, in addition to his own 
stores. On the morrow, ascending the Ejeld, points of view 
may be obtained, at an elevation of 4,500 feet, from which 
the whole range of the peaks of the Horungurne, called also 
the Jotum-Fjelds^ or giant mountains, may be seen ; Skag- 
tols-tind, the highest summit in Norway, being 7,670 feet. 
Numerous dyr-sJiaclc, the trail of the reindeer, will be 
observed, and, suitably equipped, there is no better range of 
Pjeld in Norway for stalking them. The night may be spent 
at the sgeter of Sletterust. In the morning, the Ejeld will 
be crossed, and the track descends by a steep zig-zag of 
2,500 feet into the 3Iorlce-Tcold'dal, the dark, cold valley, 
a scene of wonderful grandeur, increased by a magnificent 
pine-forest, over which the Horungurne peaks are seen. 
The tourist will rest at the Sseter of Vetti, and thence 
returning to Svaleim and Aardal, take boat on the Ijord for 
Lierdals-oren. 



376 EOUTE Yin. — LIEEDALS-OBEN TO THE HOETJNGIJENE ; 

4. JExcursion to the Sbrungerne, 

The tourist who wishes to penetrate further among the 
mountain peaks, seen in the last excursion, will embark at 
Lierdals-oren, and, passing the entrance of the Aardals- 
Pjord, already mentioned, wUl follow up the Lyster-Ejord 
to its extreme eastern point at the foot of the mountains, 
near Fortun. Thus far the noble Sogne-Pjord and its 
branches penetrate, a distance of 150 miles from the sea. 
But, on the whole, the scenery of the Sogne-Fjord is not on 
the same scale of grandeur as that of tlie Har danger. The 
higher mountains, with some exceptions, do not rise so 
directly from the water ; their elevations are not so great ; 
and there is less variety in the outline of the shores. The 
stations to Fortun are as follows : — 

Solvorn . . • 2f 

Dosen, in Lyster . . \\ 

ISkj olden . . • • f 

Portuu 1 

5| N. m. 401- E. m. 

The voyage to Skj olden takes ten or twelve hours, accord- 
ing to the wind; there are good accommodations at that 
station, and either there or at Fortun the tourist w411 be 
able to procure a guide and horses, and make arrangements 
for an excursion into the Horungurne, at the foot of which 
it stands. There is a herd of tame reindeer on the Fjeld 
about four Norsk miles from Fortun, and the wild deer are 
to be met with on the higher Fjelds. Having satisfied his 
curiosity, the- tourist will return to Lierdals-oren, unless 
he is inclined, as some English travellers have done, to cross 
the Fjeld to Lom on the Otte-So, from whence there is a 
by-road which joins the great northern road just below the 
Dovre-Fjeld, between Trondhjem and Christiania. 

CONTINUATIOIT OP EOUTE VIII TO THE DOVEE-FJELD EOAD. 

Arrangements should be made at Fortun for this journey, 
which is an enterprise attended with considerable hardship 
and fatigue, but it may vary the line of route, and some 



LOM, ON THE OTTE-SO ; AND CHEISTIANIA. 377 

sucli undertaking is necessary for those who wish to form 
any adequate idea of a Norwegian Tjeld, which cannot be 
gained on the post-roads over the Dovre-rjeld or the Fille- 
Pjeld. The distance from Fortun to the first sseters on the 
further side of the Fjeld is about 5 Norsk, or 35 English 
miles ; and to lessen the day's journey over an inhospitable 
waste, at a vast elevation, it is advisable to sleep at one of 
the saeters on the west flank of the Fjeld, about 1 Norsk 
mile from Fortun, and thus get an advanced start in the 
morning. If the weather be fair, without which it would 
be dangerous to venture on the Fjeld, splendid views will 
be obtained of the HoruDgerne peaks. The path, however 
wild, is the frequented track from Gulbrandsdalen, by which 
shop goods are conveyed on pack-horses to the head of the 
Sogne-Fjord. The first saeters on the east of the Fjeld can 
be reached in about seven hours. The traveller may pro- 
bably procure there a fresh horse, and push on about 10 
English miles further to Hoft, where there is a gieste-huus. 
It is about 10 miles more to Lom on the Otte-So, where 
there is a regular post-station on a by-road which joins the 
Dovre-Fjeld road at Laurgaard, three stages beyond. The 
distances from Fortun to Laurgaard are as follows : — 

Over the Fjeld to Sseters . . 5 



The distance from Laurgaard to Christiania, see Eoute 
17, is 27 Norsk , or 189 English miles. At Gardmo, the 
Otte-So, or Vaage-Vand, is crossed to Vaage. Laurgaard 
is on the Laagen-Elv, at the head of the long valley of 
Gulbrandsdalen. 



Hoft . . 

Lom 
^ Gardmo . . 

Svee, in Vaage . . 
^ Laurgaard 




11 N. m. 77 E. m. 



378 



EOUTE IX.— LIERDALS-OEEN" 



EOUTE IX. 



LIEEDALS-OREN TO DEAMMEN AND CHRISTIANIA. 



The direct road between Bergen, Lierdals-oren, and 
Christiania, over the Fille-Pjeld is given in Eoute 16, the 
route taken by most travellers, and the one indicated in 
the preliminary observations addressed to tourists, who 
wish to make the most of an excursion in Norway, limited 
in point of time. If they extend their tour to the Har- 
danger and Sogne-Fjords, they will probably take this 
road either in going or returning. But there are circum- 
stances under which Route 9 may be convenient, particu- 
larly when the Ejukan-Eoss and Telemarken have not been 
visited, as it brings them within easy reach by the cross Eoute 
15, which joins the present at Drammen, a town likewise 
only three stages from Christiania. Some persons prefer 
this route to the more frequented road to Christiania, 
considering the scenery more beautiful. The first stages 
through the romantic defile by which the summit of the 
Fille-Fjeld is reached, are the same in both routes. Our road 
then crosses the strikingly-wild plateau of the Fjeld by a 
shorter course, and descends into the beautiful valley of 
Hemsedal, which it threads to the entrance of the still 
more celebrated valley of Ilallingdal. The remainder of the 
route has also many points of interest. 

Lierdals-oren to Mid Lysne 1^ 



Husum . . 



- 1 



' Hgeg 

Bjoberg . . - 
^ Tuf, in Hemsedal 



2 J Fast station, pay extra. 



Aalrast . . 
Eo, in HalHngdal 
Hoftun, or Haag 




7. 



* Nses 
Sevre 
Trostheim 
Gulsvig . . 



8 




* The scene of Miss Bremer's well-known tale of " Strife and Peace/* 
Halling-skarven, above the head of the valley, is 5,600 feet high. 



TO DEAMME2T A:S"D CHEISTIANIA. 



379 



Sorteberg 
^ Green, in Ulberg 



1| pay for 2 m. 
1 



Vatsenreed 
Gubbereed 
Vikersund 
Bjorndalen 
Haugsund 
Deammen 



« • 




1 



1 



3. 
4 



24f N. m. 173i E. m. 



^ Between Husum and Sceg the scenery is most ro- 
mantic (see Eoute 16,) and examine the curious old timber 
cburch of Borgund, as to wbicb, consult remarks on Hit- 
terdal church, in Eoute 4. At Haeg our road turns off 
from the usual route to Christiania, already mentioned. 
After passing Haeg, the summit of the Fille-rjeld is gained 
by a very steep ascent of the mountain side, through a deep 
ravine ; the scenery is wild and magnificent, while that of 
the Fjeld, which is passed to Bjoberg, is desolation itself. 

^ Tuf. — The road following the course of a torrent, which 
has its source on the Fjeld, descends rapidly into the valley 
of Hemsedal. 

^ The station at Bo is at the entrance of Hallingdalen, and 
there are good quarters at Nces^ 

^ Green. — The range of mountains seen for the last three 
stages to the S.W. is the Ekkedals-Fjeld, the road coasting 
the right bank of the Krorem-rjord, and crossing a narrow 
part of it to the left bank near the station. At Grreen the 
direct road towards Christiania turns to the right, and 
joins Eoute 16 at Sundvolden, by the stages, Oppegaard 1-^, 
Veeme 1, Braaten, |-, Sundvolden 1|-, miles. 

^ Drammen is a town of some commercial importance, 
with a population of 12,000 souls, having a large export in 
deals to England and Erance. The timber is floated down 
the river Dram, and its numerous tributaries ; some of it 
from great distances in the interior. Here it is sawed into 
deals by a vast number of saw-mills worked by the river. — 
(See " Norway and its Scenery, p. 322.") Hotels, D' Angle- 
terre, and De Scandinavie. Eor continuation to Christiania, 
see Eoute 15. 



380 



EOTJTE X. — BEBQEN TO MOLDE, 



III. NORTHERN AND NORTH-WESTERN GROUP. 
ROUTE X. 

BEEGEN TO MOLDE, ON EOAD TO TEONDHJEM, 

This is the first of tlie north-western routes in our 
present arrangement, all of which are connected with 
Trondhjem as the centre. It carries on the line of com- 
munications from the south in previous routes ; this road 
is also taken by tourists from Christiania making directly 
for Bergen, and afterwards travelling northward. Great 
part of the road to Trondhjem being rugged and hilly, 
with no less than fifteen Fjords to cross, many of them of 
considerable width, this route, never much frequented, will 
probably be still less, in consequence of the establishment 
of the line of steam-boats round the coast. They make 
the voyage from Bergen to Molde in two days, and from 
thence to Trondhjem in two more. Further particulars 
respecting them will be found in the proper place. The 
trip to Molde and Trondhjem in this way must be very 
agreeable, from the character of the coast, the steam-boat 
threading the channels between the clusters of islands 
which shelter it from the swell of the North Sea. This 
mode of transit is easy, cheap, and expeditious; but of 
course Norway may be steamed round, without the tourist's 
acquiring much knowledge of the country, or seeing its 
most attractive scenery. In the present instance, he will 
have to decide between the coasting voyage and the land 
route, which, though it may be fatiguing, conducts through 
some of the very finest scenery in Norway. The very 
obstacles he will have to contend with, the crossing so many 
Fjords, with their enclosing ridges, spurs from the great 
central chain of Fjelds, enhance the interest of the journey. 
Should he go no further than Molde on this road, and, 
making an excursion into the singularly grand and pictu- 
resque valley of Eomsdal, turn south to Christiania, he 
will be amply repaid for any difiiculties he may encounter. 



ON ROAD TO TEONDHJEM. 



381 



The whole of this route, and its continuation to Trondhjem, 
can be performed in a carriole, the wheels being easily taken 
off to embark it on boats at the various Fjords. A screw 
for taking the wheels off the axle should not be forgotten, 
and the general directions for preliminary arrangements 
prefixed to other Eoutes must be carefully attended to. The 
journey to Trondhjem by this route has been accomplished 
by English travellers in about seven days. The four first 
stages from Bergen to the Sogne-rjord may be performed 
by water. The stations are given in the parallel column. 
For farther details of this route, see "Norway and its 
Scenery," c. ix. p. 242.) 



Eodland 
Horvigen 
Isdal 
Nsese . . 

Hundven, in Lindaas 
Lindaas (Fanebust) 
Steenvaagen, in Edvindvik 
Eide, in ditto 
Nordgulen 
Kutledal 
Lservig 

Systad, in Askevold 

Skaar, in ditto 

Floekke, Outer Holmedal 

Trods, in ditto 

Sveen, Inner Holmedal . 

Langeland, in ditto 

Hafstad, in Forde . . 

Moe, in ditto 

Eedre-Vasenden . . 

Skeid, or Skei 

Forde, in Breim . . 

Eeed, in ditto 

TJdvig . . 

Faleide 

Kjosebunden, in Horning 

dal . . 
GraadsDs, in ditto 



1 
1 



4 

n 
1 

X 

2 

U 



Alvestrommen 
Skjerjeliavii . 
Sogiiefast 
Lsei'vig 



2 

1!- 
H 

H 



li on Sogne- Fjord. 
1 



1 

1| 

5. 
8 

1 
1 



on Dale-Fjord. 



■f- on the Jolster-Fjord. 



on ditto. 



1 on the Breims-Yand. 
1~ on Indvigen-Fjord. 
1 on ditto. 



on Horningdal-Vand. 



382 



EOUTE X.— =MOLDE 



Haugen, in ditto . . 
Tronstad, in Eomsdals 

Atnt 
Hellesylt 
Ljoen 

Helstad, in Stranden 
Slyngstad, in ditto 
Soholt, in Orshaug 
Eemeim 

MOLDE 



3. 
4 



f on the Stor-Pjord. 

^ on the Fjord to Slyngstad, 2^. 

-*-8 



2^ over Orshang-Fjeld. 
1^ on the Fjord. 



36f N. m. 254i E. m. 

The situation of Molde is striking. Built on the declivity 
of the mountains, which slope down to the Fjord, it com- 
mands a view of the snowy Alps bounding the whole of its 
southern shore. " I do not remember such a long extended 
range of peaks, except, perhaps, in the LolFodens ; but here 
one rank peeps out from behind another, until they are lost 
in the distance, and, as they mix with the white clouds, we 
fancy them like hanging cities or fortresses in the air. 
Among them Eomsdals-horn appears conspicuous." — 
Everest's "JSTorway," and see " Norway and its Scenery/' 
p. 251. 

An excursion may be made by water from Molde to Aale- 
sund, on an island off the mouth of the Stor-Fjord, near which 
place Eolf-ganger, or EoUo the Walker, embarked for the con- 
quest of Normandy ; the rocky coves in which his gallies 
were fitted out are still shewn. Soliolt is the nearest 
point to Aalesund in the route, but perhaps the visit may 
better be reserved till Molde is reached. The excursion 
to Eomsdalen may either be by boat all the way to Veb- 
lungsnses near the head of the Fjord, distance about 20 English 
miles, or by driving along the north bank of the Fanne- 
Fjord, which commands splendid views of the Eomsdal 
peaks, to Lonsset, 1 Norsk mile ; across the Fjord and by 
land to Soliesnses, | of a mile; over the Lang-Fjord to 
Alfarnses, fths of a mile ; by land to Thorvik, 1^ miles ; cross 
a wide branch of the Eomsdal-Fjord to Veblungsnses, f ths 
of a mile. The scenery up the valley of Eomsdal for a Norsk 
mile to the station of Horjem is of the grandest description. 



TO TKO]S"DHJEM. 



883 



The road passes between the two remarliable peaks of the 
Komsdars Horn on one side and the Vinges-Tindene on the 
other, which rise upwards of 2,000 feet above the valley. 
From Veblungsnses, the tourist, who abandons anj design he 
may have entertained of proceeding further northward, can 
return to Christiania by Eoute 21, which joins the Dovre- 
Pjeld road at Lid . The scenery from J^Iolde to Eomsdal, 
and along the Eauma-elv, and the western fork of the 
Laagen-elv, with the lake LsDsjo, which unites them, being 
among the finest in Norway. See the preliminary remarks 
to Eoute 21. 



ROUTE XI. 



MOLDE (continuation FEOM BEEOEN) TO TEONDHJEM* 



Lonsset, in Bolso parish 
Eide, in ditto 
Istad, in ditto 
Haegeim, in Thingvold . . 
Angviken, in ditto 
Bsekken, on Thingvold-Fjord 
Vaagboen 
Stangevik, on Fjord 
Aasen, in Sureudalen 
Honstad, in ditto 
Sseter, in ditto 
Aune . . 
Hotte 

Garb erg, in Meldal 
Kalstad, in ditto 
Gumdal, in Orkedal 
Fandreim, in ditto 
Bye, in Borsi-skogn 
Hammer, in Budvig 
Skjefstad 

Tll02^I)HJEM 



1 
1 

If 

H 

1 
1 

3. 



19 JST. m. 133 E. m. 



384 



ROUTE XII. — TRONDHJEM 



At Hcsgeim^ the Trondhjem road turns off to Christian- 
sund, a town built on three islands in the Fjord, which forms 
an excellent harbour. It has a considerable trade, principally 
connected with the fisheries. The stations from Hsegeim 
are, Taarvik Erasdo 1, Bolgen -f, across the Fjord to 
Christiansund \, — Norsk miles. 

^ Trondhjem^ the ancient capital of Norway, containing a 
population of 14,000, is situated on the Fjord of the same 
name. Its original name was Nidaros, from the river which 
here flows into the bay. The principal objects are the 
venerable cathedral, founded in the 12th century, where the 
kings of Norway are still crowned ; the fortress of Munk- 
holm, on an island in the bay ; and the museum. In the 
neighbourhood are the Falls called Leerfossen, on the river 
Nid, about 3 English miles from Trondhjem. There are 
several good hotels, but the accommodations of a private 
establishment now, or lately, kept by Mrs. Homberg, are 
generally preferred by English travellers. For further 
particulars of Trondhjem, and the road from Molde, see 
" Norway and its Scenery," pp. 267 to 289. 



BOUTE XII. 



TEONDHJEM TO THE NAMSEN-ELV AND yiSEUM-FOSS. 



Haugan 
Sandferhuus 
Farbord 
Vserdal 
^ Hammar 
Hove 

2 Thynsss (Leyakoee) 



1 



1 



1 



1 




2 



^ Holme, near Sticklestad 
Hodske 




* Steinkjser 
Vikan 

» Eilden 
Aargaard . . 

* Bangsund 
SpiUum . . 



2 



1 



TO THE NAMSEK-ELY AND EISKUM-rOSS. 885 



Hun, on Namsen-Ejord 

Haugan . . 

Storem 
« Vie 

Fosland 

Gotland . . 
^ Piskum-Foss 

24f K m. 173^ E. m. 

The first part of this route lies through a more fertile and 
level district than is generally found in Norway. It is, 
however, varied by frequent hills, commanding fine views of 
the Trondhjem Fjord. There is good accommodation at 
Hammar^ which is pleasantly situated near the head of the 
Fjord. 

^ Levanger is a large tov*'n, and a place of considerable 
trade ; the fairs held there in winter and spring are much 
resorted to by the Lapps or Finns, and by Swedes and 
Eussians. 

^ Near Holme is Stikklestad, where St. Olaf, king of 
Norway, fell in a great battle fought with Canute, a.d. 
1030. Eetween Levanger and Holme a road branches off 
to the right into the valley of Lserdal, proceeding onward 
into Sweden. In this valley Mr. Samuel Laing, the author 
of several works connected with Norway, resided for some 
tiDie. 

^ SteinlcjcBr. — Excellent quarters may be had at the 
principal merchants, and there are decent inns at Hilden^ 
and at Hun. 

^ From Aargaard to Bangsund the scenery is wildly 
magnificent, the road winding through a mountranous 
district among glades and glens, with views of the Namsen- 
Fjord, which it coasts. Tolerable accommodations may be 
had at Bagsund, which stands on a small bay expanding into 
the Fjord, a lovely spot. 

From Hun the road follows the course of the Nam sen 
river, which is crossed repeatedly. At first the valley is 
level, but it becomes alpine further up. The best stations 
for salmon fishing are from Yw^ to Gotland^ and in the 
Fiskum pool below the Foss. 

2 c 2 




386 



EOXJTE XIII. — TEOlS^DnJEM 



^ The Fiskum Toss, one of tlie finest x^^aterfalLs in 
Norway, is about 4 English miles from Gotland, by a very 
rough road. The whole river makes a single fall over an 
almost perpendicular ledge of gneiss to a depth of 100 or 
150 feet. " A perpetual column of spray rises above the 
abyss wherein it is received; and the cataract's eternal roar 
adds Nature's voices to the scene." — Belton. 

In returning from the JSFamsen, the route may be varied, 
after Steinkjser, by taking another road which, though much 
of it is hilly and bad, presents interesting views over an ex- 
tremely wild country. The stages are as follows : — Steinkjser 
to EoUing, 1 Norsk mile; Koam, 1; ]Ryg, 1 ; Hammar, |; 
Haegset, 1^; Grrogn on the Namsen 3, — 8|- Norsk, or 27 
English, miles. Erom Eolling to Hsegset the road coasts the 
Snaasen-Vand, a beautiful lake nearly 40 English miles 
long. This part of the journey may be performed by boat. 



EOUTE XIII. 

TEONDHJEM TO HAMMEEFEST. 

This route follows the road to the Namsen as far as Hun, 
and has only one stage by land beyond that place. Such a 
journey for nearly 900 miles performed in open boats, in all 
weather, through a most desolate and sterile region, has little 
to compensate the fatigue and expense of the undertaking. 
There is nothing very remarkable in the scenery of the 
North Cape; and to stand on the most northern point of the 
Continent of Europe, if such it be, is a project which has 
tempted very few travellers. Since, however, the establish- 
ment of the steam-boats to Hammerfest, distant only about 
90 English miles from the North Cape, these extreme points 
of the Norwegian territory have been made accessible to 
tourists who would not previously have entertained a thought 
of visiting them. This season (1853), for the first time, the 
voyage is extended northward beyond Hammerfest, rounding 
the North Cape, within two Norsk miles of which passengers 
are landed, and terminating at Yardo, on the East coast of 
Einmarken. The steam-boats will now, it may be supposed, 
supersede the former mode of travelling through these deso- 



TO HAMMEEPEST. 



887 



late regions ; the post-route, however, is retained for the 
convenience of tourists who, missing the steam-boats, or for 
any other reason, may find it useful. For the steam-boats to 
Hammerfest and the North Cape, see the Tables at the end 
of the Land Eoutes. 



To Hun, Eoute 12 

Vemundvik . . 

Sejerstad 

Strand 

Pinne 

Aarfor . . . . , 

Toldereid 

Teraak 

Steensoen, in ISTostvik 
Salhuus, in Brono 
Jorviken 

Soviken, in Alstahaeug . . 
Sandnses-soen, in ditto 
Kobberdal, in Nsesne . . 
Donnses, in ditto . . 
Luro 

Selsovik, in Eodo . . 

Svinvser 

Stot . . 

Melyr, in Grildeslkaal . . 
^ Bono . . 
Kjerringo, in Eolden 
Hielnses 
Lovo, in Stegen 
Pikke, in Hammero 
Bseroen 

Sandtorvholm, in Trondenses 
Havniken, in Ibestad 
Dypvik, in Dyro 
Kloven, in Trano . . 
Gribostad, in Lservik 
2 Teomso 
Einkrogen . . 
Karlso 
Skjervo 



20i 



2 
1 
2 

3 
2 

2i 

1| 

2 

^8 



21. 
2 
3 
3 

2i 
2i 

2i 

1| 

11- 

3i 

2 

2 

8 



388 EOUTE XIII. — TEOKDHJEM TO HAMMEEFEST. 



The singular feature of tins route is the myriads of islands, 
islets, and insular rocks or sheers which stud the coast, and 
through the channels formed by which the navigation is 
carried on. The most remarkable of these islands are the 
Loffoden, extending in a chain for 70 miles from the neigh- 
bourhood of Bodo to beyond Tromso, their southern point 
being 20 miles from the mainland, which they gradually 
approach till they form a narrow channel through which our 
route passes. The cod-fisheries of these islands employ 
annually 15,000 men, and produce 16 millions of fish, besides 
upwards of 20,000 barrels of cod-liver-oil, and (3,000 barrels 
of cod's-roe. The elevations of the mountains on the coast 
decrease after leaving theSogne-¥jord, though there are many 
long ranges and peaked summits of a striking character. It 
will be observed how many names of places end in d, that 
monosyllable being the Norsk term for an island ; as nces, 
which also forms the termination of many descriptive names, 
signifies a promontory; So is a fresh water lake ; as Fjord is 
an arm of the sea. The pine forests entirely disappear, and 
the interest centres in the rugged scenery of the coast and 
its islands ; what may be called the general level of the 
country being a succession of sterile and dreary moors. 
The valley of the Alien river forms an oasis in this vast 
desert, being the most extensive and fertile in the north 
of Norway. The river is well known to English anglers 
for its salmon fishery, for which it is only inferior to the 
ISTamsen. From the station of Skjervo, in this route, the 
Kvenangen-Ejord is ascended in boats to Alteidet, whence 
a narrow isthmus is crossed to the Alten-Fjord, on which 
a boat is again taken to the village of Alten, at the mouth 
of the river. The whole distance from Skjervo is Sf Norsk 
miles, about 60 English miles. The steam-boats call at 
PxSsokop, on the Alten-Fjord, 1 Norsk mile by land from 
A Iten. The Arctic circle is crossed between Luro and 
belsovik, 80 that there is hardly any night in these regions 



Loppen 
IJasvik 
^ Hammeeeest 




104 N. m. 728 E. m. 



BOUTE XIY. — HAMMERFEST TO THE KOETH CAPE. 889 



at the season most usual for travellmg, and the atmospheric 
effects are magnificent. 

^ Bodd, the chief town of the province of Nordland, is the 
residence of the Amptmand, and other civil officers of the 
district, the office answering to that of a lord-lieutenant of 
our counties. It is a small place, but there are a few mer- 
chants settled there engaged in the fisheries to the Lofi'oden 
islands. 

^ Tromsb is the capital of Pinmarken, where the Ampt- 
mand of that province and the bishop reside. It is a much 
larger town than Bodo, the inhabitants likewise depending 
upon the fisheries, the produce of which is largely exported. 

^ Hammerfest is the most important town on this coast, as 
well as the most northern in Europe. An extensive com- 
merce is carried on with Russia, and ports to the south, in 
stock-fish, as the dried cod is called, and other products of 
these northern regions. There are also trading establish- 
ments connected with Spitzbergen. The merchants of Ham- 
merfest are remarkable for their hospitality to strangers, and 
in this remote place the traveller finds comforts and luxuries, 
the fruits of its commerce, which he would little expect. A 
large proportion of the population of Finmarken consists of 
Laplanders or Finns, the most singular of European races, 
with whose habits and character the tourist will have oppor- 
tunities of making himself acquainted. 



See preliminary remarks prefixed to Eoute 13. The ex- 
cursion is performed in boats to the island of Magero, the 
distance across which to the Cape is about 20 English 
miles. 



ROUTE XIV. 



HAMMEEPEST TO THE NOETH CAPE. 



Havosund 

Kjelvik, in Magero . . 
North Cape . . 




3 



12f N". m. 89i E. m. 

Several travellers have landed at Hornvigen, a small bight 



390 EOTJTE XY. — CHEISTIANIA, BY DEAMMEK, 



in the North Cape itself, above wMcli it rises 935 feet ; this 
saves the journey across the island of Magero, but it can 
only be done when the sea is calm, and the wind favourable. 
Tor further particulars of the North Cape, see " Norway and 
its Scenery," p. 10. 

IV. SOUTH-EASTERN GROUP. 
EOUTE XV. 

CHEISTIANIA, BY DEAMMEK, TO THE EJUEiAI^-T'OSS, &C. 

This route connects Christiania with Eoutes 4, 5, and 6 
successively, forming a junction with the former of these 
routes at Seem in Hitterdal, three stages beyond Kongsberg. 
It will therefore place the tourist who lands at Chris- 
tiania in the same position for excursions in the Telemarken 
and to the Ejukan-Foss, and for further pursuing the course 
detailed in those routes, as if he had commenced his 
journey from Christiansand. The road is practicable for 
carriages as far as Tinoset, about 40 English miles from 
Christiania ; and it would be desirable to perform that part 
of the journey in a carriole, but after that station, a car- 
riage will be useless, in going to the Ejukan-Eoss, and in 
almost all the excursions on the lines of road pointed out in 
the sequel of Eoute 4. Unless, therefore, the tourist pro- 
poses to return by the same road, or to take, in continuation, 
some other post-road practicable for a carriage, he must dis- 
pense with the comforb of travelling in carriole for any part 
of this journey, except the first stages from towns at which 
they are regularly furnished. This is a serious inconve- 
nience, as he will either have to make use of the country 
cars provided at the stations, or to travel on horseback all 
the way. In this dilemma he may, perhaps, be able to make 
some arrangement for a carriole to convey him at least as far 
as Kongsberg ; there is also a diligence, it is believed, daily, 
to Drammen on this route. The tourist need hardly be re- 
minded, after former suggestions, that his equipment should 
be carefully adjusted to the modes of travelling he may be 
compelled to adopt, and the extent and character of his 
intended tour. The traveller coming from Bergen, or any 



TO THE EJUE:Als--rOSS, &C. 



391 



part of the western districts, by adopting Eoute 9 from 
Liedals-oren may take the Telemarken and Ejukan-Foss 
in his circuit, E^outes 9 and 15 forming a junction at 
Drammen. 

CHRiSTiAisriA is the modern capital of Norway, having 
been founded in 1624, by Christian IV. of Denmark, on 
the destruction by fire of the old city of Opslo, founded in 
1058 by king Harold Hardraade, who fell in the battle of 
Stanford bridge. The population of Christiania is now 
about 35,000, having been much increased since the Nor- 
wegians established their independence. Most of the streets 
are broad and straight, but the houses are principally built 
of wood, except in the new part of the city towards the 
palace. The Hotel du Nord is the principal resort of 
English travellers, but good accommodations and much 
attention are met with at the Hotel de Scandinavie. The 
hotel charges in the towns of Norway average about 2 
sp. dollars per day. In the country, half that sum ought 
to suffice for the usual meals and a night's lodging. Por a 
detailed account of Christiania, refer to " Norway and its 
Scenery," p. 313. Summary of the principal objects. The 
castle of Aggershuus, standing well on an elevation above 
the rjord, with its place d'armes, fine avenues of trees, and 
delightful promenade on the ramparts overlooking the Fjord; 
it is the only picturesque building in the city. The .Dom- 
Kirke, or Cathedral, a heavy building of no interest ; the 
new Palace, standing on an eminence at the west end of the 
city, with a fine portico, but having no other architectural 
pretensions; the new buildings of the University in the 
same quarter, connected with which is the Museum, con- 
taining a curious collection of northern antiquities ; the 
Military College; and the Botanical Gardens, situated about 
a mile from the city, most remarkable for the collection of 
alpine plants which the connection of the Danish Grovern- 
ment with Iceland and Spitzbergen enabled it to procure. 
In short, there is little temptation to the tourist to linger in 
Christiania, except for the purpose of making excursions in 
the delightful neighbourhood. The hall, in which the 
Storthing, the "parliament" of Norway, holds its sit- 
tings deserves a visit, if the traveller should happen to be 
in Christiania during the session, not on account of the 



892 EOUTE XY. — CHEISTIAKIA, ET DRAMMEI^, 



building, whicli is very mean, but for the opportunity of 
observing tbe order with which the proceedings of the most 
democratical legislature in Europe are conducted. The 
great majority of the representatives are farmers, and of 
course determined protectionists. The Storthing assembles 
triennially, the last sitting having been in 1851. The 
tourist who has not provided himself with suitable maps, 
will find them, together with the Norwegian road-books, &c., 
at Herr J. W. Cappelen's, bookseller, in the Kirkegaden- 
street, a most obliging person, who speaks English, and is 
known to most travellers. In Norway all persons, of what- 
ever their rank, remain uncovered while purchasing the most 
trifling article in the shops. 

^ Nses, in Asker . . . . If East stage. 

G-jellebaek, in Thraneby 1^ East stage. 

^ Drammei^^ . . • • H 

Haugsund, in Eker. . If 

Dunserud, in Eistum . . 1 
^ KoNaSBERG- . . |- 

Heibo . . -.21 
* Ssem, in Hitterdal • • -i 

IIN. m. 77E. m. 

^ ]Vces. — This stage was formerly divided into two, and 
the stations given in the old road-books are Stabsek and 
Asker. 

^ Approaching Drammen, there is a fine view from Para- 
dise Hill of the town, the valley, and the Ejord. Eor 
Drammen, see Eoute 9. 

^ Kongslerg is principally remarkable for the silver mines, 
which are worked by the Government, and produce an 
annual revenue of 100,000 Sp. dollars, — See " Norway and 
its Scenery," p. 124. Kongsberg stands in the valley of 
the Laagen-elv, over which the Jonskunden mountain rises 
to the height of 3,000 feet. 

* Seem in Hitterdal, — Eoute 4 is joined here ; see the 
Excursions 1 and 2, for the continuation of the route into 
the Telemarken, or to the Ejukan-Eoss. 

There is a more direct and a pleasanter road from Kongs- 
berg to Dsel and the Ejukan-Eoss, which is practicable for 



TO THE EJTJKAN FOSS, &C. 



393 



active travellers. Its course lies up the valley of tlie 
Laagen-elv, till that river is joined by the Jonsdal-elv near 
the waterfall of the Lardbro-Foss, and then to Mden on the 
latter river, 1 mile ; to Bolkesjo, 1 mile ; to Graven, on the 
Tind-so, about 3 Norsk, or 21 English miles. This stage is 
not practicable for carriages. From Graven a boat may be 
procured to ascend the Tind-so to Msel, at the entrance of 
the "Westfjordalen, where the road joins the route from 
Kongsberg to the Ejukan-Poss ; or it may be joined at 
Tinoset by going from Bolkesjo to Polseland, 1^ Tinoset, 
1\ miles. 

EOUTE XVI. 

CKRISTIAKIA TO BEEGEN, OVER THE FILLE-PJELD. 

This is the most frequented route to Bergen ; the road is 
generally excellent, and it leads through the magnificent passes 
of the rille-rjeld, with the fine approaches to them. There 
is another road to Bergen, by way of Drammen, and through 
Hemsedal and Hallingdal, which is likewise very interest- 
ing, and crosses the rille-Fjeld in another line ; being also 
convenient for visiting the Ejukan-Foss, &c., in going or 
returning. — See Boutes 9 and 15. The railway between 
Christiania and the foot of the Mjosen-Vand, which is ex- 
pected to be opened this year, (L853) with the steamers 
which already ply on that lake, may be turned to good account 
by the traveller on this route, as they enable him to join it 
about 7 6 English miles from Christiania, with a considerable 
saving of time and fatigue, if not of distance. The tourist 
wiU go by the railway to the terminus at Minde, the station 
also of the steam-boats on the Mjosen. The distance is about 
forty miles. No doubt, trains will be arranged to meet the 
departure of the boats. At present they run every Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday mornings, but probably there will be 
daily communications on the Mjosen when the railway is 
completed. The tourist, taking his passage in the steam-boat, 
will disembark at Hun^ on the western shore of the Mjosen. 
The distance from Minde is about 40 miles, and the passage 
is performed in from four to five hours. Erom Hun to 
Bodnces, the nearest point at which the high road to Bergen 
can be reached, the distance is 17 English miles, by a good 



39^ 



BOUTE XYI. — CHEISTIANIA, 



post-road ; and horses may be procured both at Hun and 
at Mustsed, the intermediate station to Eodnaes. There is 
a large and commodious inn at Hun, and there are comfort- 
able accommodations for a small party at Mustaed. 

In this way, the journey from Chris tiania to Eodnsss may 
be accomplished in about seven hours, while, by the post- 
road, it cannot be done in less than twelve or fourteen ; 
besides, at the outset of a long and wearisome journey of 
nearly 350 miles, it is something to save the wear and tear 
of sixty miles travelling by road. In addition to this, the 
tourist will include in this little detour a long range of the 
noble Mjosen-Vand, without losing the scenery of the 
Eands-Ijord, which he will fall in with at Eodnses. This 
variation from the usual route is, therefore, strongly recom- 
mended to future travellers ; carrioles can be shipped and 
disembarked at Minde and Hun, and of course conveyed 
by the railway from Christiania. The distances in Norsk 
miles between Hun and Eodnses are, from Hun to Mus- 
taed, thence to Eodnses, If miles. By sleeping at 
either of the two former of these places, a good start will 
be obtained for the next day's journey, which includes a 
very difficult pass over the mountains from Brufiadt to 
rrydenlund. 

The journey from Christiania to Bergen generally occupies 
eight or nine days, but may be accomplished in seven. 
Forbud tickets should be despatched by the preceding post, 
directions for which are given in the preliminary chapter. 
The distances should be arranged in reference to suitable 
sleeping places which are mentioned in the Eoute. Fifty 
miles a day may be accomplished with ease on most parts of 
this road, and seventy, on a pinch, by an active traveller. 

^ Jonsrud . . Pay for 2 m. 

Sundvolden . . 1^ Bay for 2|m. 

Klsekken . . If Fast station 

^ Vang, in Jsenvager 1 Near Vang there is a steam- 
boat station on the E-ands- 
Bjord. 

Sanne, in G-ran . . 1^ 

Augedal . . f (pronounced Ougedal.) 

Smedshammer . • f 



OYES THE riLLE-rJELD, TO BEEGEN. 



395 



Sand, in Land 
Hof 

Steensrud, or Eodnses 



3 Tonvold 

Tomlevold 
* Brufladt 

Trydenlund 
5 Strand . . 

Eeien, or Slidre 

Staee 



6 


Ojlo 






Thune . . 


3 

• • 4 


7 


Kuame 


1 


8 


Husum 


.. 3i 




7 

8 


9 


Mid-Ljsne 




10 


Lierdals-oren . . 


n 


11 


Gudvangen 






Stalheim 


H 




Vinje . . 


1 




Tvinden 


s 


12 


Vossevangeu 


1 




riage 


7 

8 




Evanger 


3 

• • 4. 




Eolstadoren 


3^ 
4. 




Dalseidet 


1 

• • 2 




Dale 


5 

8 




Grarnses. . 






Hauge 


i 

8 


13 


Bergejn' 



The route bythe Mjosen joins 
here. 



H 

-^8 

14- 



Pay for 1|- m. 



48f K m. 



S38i E. m. 



* Stop tlie carriole at KrogHeven, before coming to Jonsrud, 
where there is one of the finest views in the south of 
Norway. It embraces the snowy peak of Grousta-Fjeld, 70 
English miles distant, and underneath commands the Tyri- 
Ejord and the Hols-Ejord, a smaller lake, with the romantic 
district of the Eingerike, so called after one of the old 



396 



EOUTE XTI. — CHEISTIANIA, 



kings of this part of Norway. A guide should be obtained 
to the best points of view. Near Klcdkken^ see the noble 
Hone-foss. 

^ Yang, — The scenery continues picturesque to Vang, on 
the Eands-Fjord, which extends 50 English miles almost due 
north ; on its shores forest and cultivated scenery are inter- 
mingled, and the head of the lake is surrounded by mountains. 
Near Vang is the station of a steani-boat which plies on the 
Fjord ; the tourist may, perhaps, take advantage of it to 
vary his mode of travelling. It traverses the whole length 
of the Fjord, starting from Hadeland at its southern ex- 
tremity, and conveying the traveller, in his direct route, as 
far as Odnaes (not Eodnses) at the head of the lake. Ey the 
last accounts, the boat leaves Hadeland every Monday and 
Thursday at 6 a.m., returning on Wednesday and Saturday 
at 8 A.M. If the tourist contemplates this plan, he must 
arrange his forbud accordingly. Hadeland is rich in curious 
remains connected with old Norwegian history. The post- 
road coasts the eastern side of the Eands-Fjord for its entire 
length to beyond the station at Eodnses, w^here there are 
good accommodations. 

^ Near Tonvold the fertile valley of the Etnedals-elv is 
entered, which is followed up to Erufladt. 

* At Brufiadt, one of the steepest ascents in the whole 
journey is commenced, the summit of the pass rising to at 
least 3,500 feet above the level of the sea, and the traveller 
from the south finds himself for the first time among drifts 
of snow. After passing this plateau, the descent to Fry- 
denlund is equally rapid, commanding views of prodigious 
extent and magnificence. There are tolerable quarters at 
Frydenlund, and much better at Eein, two stages beyond. 

* Strand-Fjord, — " I saw nothing in Norway more exqui- 
site ; the road follows the left bank for about 15 English 
miles. The shores are studded with villages and hamlets, 
clustered among groves of timber, which, encircling pas- 
tures and corn-fields, straggle up the sides of the hills, 
and richly clothe point and promontory jutting out into 
the Fjord, and headlands and islets breaking its outline. I 
counted no less than four or five churches on the western 
bank, a rare aggregation in this thinly-populated country, 
&c.''— " Norway in 1818." 



OYER THE EILLE-EJELD, TO BEEGEI^". 



397 



^ djlo is charmingly situated at the foot of the Lille 
Miosen-Vand. Then follows " a scene of dreary grandeur ; 
the dark waters of the unfrequented lake below, and a 
mountain of upwards of 4,000 feet in height (along the face 
of which the road is carried) above." 

At Kuame the ascent of the Eille-Ejeld is begun in 
right earnest, the road being often fearfully steep. The 
horses are not changed till HsBg on the other side of the 
Fjeld ; but on the summit of the ascent, at Nystuen, there 
is a very comfortable resting-place, where, though it stands 
3,000 feet above the level of the sea, all the wants of the 
weary traveller are supplied. There is a small lake just by, 
which furnishes trout 'of peculiar excellence. Just beyond 
the post-house at Nystuen a column marks the boundary 
between the provinces of Aggershuus and the Bergenstift. 
" Standing beside the marble pillar, I had a splendid prospect 
to the north, as far as the eye could reach, on a magnificent 
day, and myriads of mountain-tops were discernible covered 
with snowed to their very summits, all lighted up by a 
cloudless sky. The same day I fell in with multitudes of 
those little creatures, the lemmings, which, hiding their 
heads only, allowed themselves to be caught." — M.S. Note, 
E. K. 

^ Between Nystuen, and Sceg, for about 20 English 
mil('», the plateau of the Fille-ijeld is crossed, at a high 
elevation, in all its monotonous desolation. Snow frequently 
hes on the ground ; vegetation is scant and dwarfish ; and 
no animal life is seen, unless a herd of reindeer should 
happen to cross the traveller's path. Soon after com- 
mencing the descent Maristuen is reached, a roomy house, 
with good accommodations ; the road now follows the 
course of the Lierdals-elv all the way to Lierdals-oren. The 
scenery of the pass is extremely wild ; the cliffs tower to a 
great height, and huge masses of rock are scattered at the 
base ; the torrent foams below, forming numerous cataracts, 
and receiving continual accessions from the cascades which 
discharge themselves from the summit of this Fjeld. 

^ Between Hseg and Husum the road continues rapidly 
to descend through most romantic scenery ; the tourist 
should stop to see the curious old cliurch of Borgund to the 
left of the road. It is built of timber, and of great anti- 



398 EOIJTE XVII. — CHEISTIAKIA, ET THE MJOSEK, 



quitj, dating from the 11th or 12th century, in a style of 
architecture pecuhar to these old churches of Norway, 
which seem to be modelled on a mixture of the Byzantine 
and what is commonly called the Grothic style. Another on 
a larger scale is seen at Hitterdal, in Eoute 4. Above 
Husum there is a fine specimen of Norwegian engineering, 
where the road is carried en-echelon down the steep scarp of 
the mountain. 

For LiEEDALS-oEEisr, see Eoute 8. The passage from 
hence to Grudvangen is performed by boats on the Sogne- 
Ejord, for which see the observations in Excursion 4 con- 
nected with that Eoute. 

Gudvangen is approached through a deep and narrow 
inlet of the Fjord, a chasm in the precipitous cliffs rising 
2,000 feet from the water's edge, and continuing up the 
narrow glen, after passing which, the road is carried to 
the summit at the head of the valley by a zigzag of great 
engineering skill. The Keel-Foss leaps from the summit of 
the cliffs into the ravine (2,000 feet,) a prodigious fall, but 
the body of water is trifling ; altogether, however, this is a 
scene of surprising grandeur. 

Vossevangen. — For remarks on the road from hence to 
Bergen, see Koute 5. 

Beegen. See Eoute 1. 



EOUTE XVII. 

CHEISTIANIA TO TEONDHJEM, BY THE MJOSEN-VAKD AND THE 
DOVEE-FJELD. 

This is the great north road of Norway ; but the com- 
pletion of the railway to Minde^ on the Mjosen,will alter its 
earlier stages. — See the directions given in Eoute 16; in- 
stead, however, of landing at Hun, the traveller will proceed 
by the steam-boat to Lillehammer, at the head of the lake, 
which is about 65 English miles in length, and there join 
the post-road to Trondhjem. Forbud tickets should be 
dispatched by post, according to previous directions, the 
journey being divided into convenient stages for rest and 
refreshment; the journey may be performed in seven or 
eight days. 



OYEB THE DOYEE-EJELD, TO TEONDHJEM. 



Grorud, in Aker 

Skrimstad, in Skedsmo 
^ Mo, in Sorum 

Trogstad, in Ullensaker 

Bisebro 
^ Piro, in Eidsvold 
3 Minde 



^ LiLLEHAMMEB 

^ Mosliuus, in Ojer 

Holmen, in Throtten 

Losnses, in Fodvang 

Elstad, in Ringebo . . 

Oden, in Froen 

Moen, in Sothorp 
' Viig, in Kuammses 
^ Solhjem, in Sels 
^ Lanrgaard . . 

Haugen, in Dovre . . 

Tofte, in ditto 

Lie, in ditto 

Fogstuen, on Dovre-Pjeld 

Hjgerkin, ditto 

KongsYold, ditto 

Drivstuen . . 

Bise 

Oune, in Opdal 
Stuen . . 

Sundsetb, in Hennebo 
Bjerkager, in ditto . . 
Grarlid, in Sognedal 
Hov, in ditto 
Soknses 

Volium, or Yollan . . 
Leer, in Plaa 
Mgelhuus 

Ust, in Leinstranden 

TeONDHJEM OrDEONTHEIM 



Pay for 1 m. 



1 



1\ Embark here 
steam-boat on 
Mjosen-Vand.* 

9 



^ 



1|- Pay for If m. 
f Pay for 1 m. 

13. 
1 



If 

f Pay for 1 m. 

n 

3. 
4 

1 Pay for 1^ m. 
^ Pay for 1^ m. 
li Pay for m. 



1 Pay for 1^ m. 

3, 
4. 



47|Km. 3331 E. 

2d 



400 EOTJTE Xm. — CHEISTIAITIA, BY THE MJOSET^", 

^ Mo. — This and the two next stations have been lately 
changed ; they are taken from the Eeiseroute, published at 
Christiania in 1852 ; in the old road-books they stand thus : 
Kloften, Lie, Eaholt. The country to Minde is uninterest- 
ing, and the road execrable, it being cut up by the great com- 
mercial traffic to the Mjosen lake, by which the interior is 
supplied with groceries and other shop-goods ; the railway 
which passes along this line, will, doubtless, absorb this, 
as well as the passenger, traffic, and the post-road be dis- 
used. 

^ Mdsvold, — On the right of the road is an old mansion, 
w^here the Grund-lov, or constitution of the kingdom, was 
framed in 1814, when, before the union with Sweden, the 
Norwegians made a noble stand against the combined 
European powers for their national liberties, which they 
succeeded in establishing. — See " Mr. Laing's Works," and 
"Norway in 1848 and 1849." 

^ Near Minde are the baths of Eidsvold-bakken, much 
resorted, to in the summer. The company are entertained 
in a long and spacious building, a miniature of those of the 
same description at the German baths. The prospect from 
this spot over the Mjosen- Vand is very agreeable, and the 
little port of Minde below, the station of the lake steam- 
boats, gives it a busy air. 

* The Mjosen is a magnificent sheet of water, — from its 
great extent an inland sea ; the shores, bounded by gentle 
elevations, the slopes of which are partially wooded, and 
generally well cultivated, offer varied and pleasing views, 
but the scenery is not to be compared with the bolder fea- 
tures of the western lakes and fjords. If possible, the 
tourist should visit the Mjosen first, as it will appear tame 
on his return. Tor further observations on the Mjosen- 
Vand, see " Norway and its Scenery," p. 109, and for places 
on its shores, Eoutes 18 and 19. 

* LiLLEHAMMEE is a towu (Kjolstad) of rising import- 
ance at the head of the lake, being the entrepot for the 
commerce of the rich valleys of Gulbrandsdalen and Hede- 
marken. There are some large distilleries, at which five 
million gallons of corn-brandy are made annually, the con- 
sumption of spirits in Norway being enormous. There is a 
good hotel in the open space near the church. The river 



OVEB THE DOTEE-rJELB TO TEOITDHJEM. 



401 



Laagen, whicli here runs into the lake, abounds in fine 
trout, which are commonly of 181bs. weight, and are some- 
times taken, it is said, of double that size. 

^ Moshuus. — The road now threads the windings of the 
celebrated valley of Gulbrandsdal, the garden of Norway, 
which, watered by the Laagen-elv, is 140 English miles 
long, extending to the foot of the Dovre-Fjeld. Rich farms, 
in excellent cuttiYation, contrast with the stupendous moun- 
tain ridges enclosing the valley, and the pine forests which, 
in places, clothe their higher declivities. The river Laagen 
forms numerous rapids and falls in its headlong course ; in 
other places it has the stillness of a small and narrow lake. 
The interest is increased by crossing several lateral rivers, 
which discharge their waters into the Laagen, the road 
being carried over bridges of timber, of the most pictu- 
resque style, often at great elevations above the torrents 
beneath. 

Viig. — The famous Norwegian king, St. Olaf^ was born 
here ; pieces of the timber of his old mansion^ employed in 
building the station-house, are still pointed out. The situa- 
tion is charming, and it is a desirable resting-place. 

^ Solhjem — Beyond this station, at Kringelen, on the 
top of a hill, is a momument commemorating the slaughter 
by the peasants of Colonel Sinclair and a body of Scots who 
were crossing the country to form a junction with the army 
of Gustavus Adolphus in 1612.— See " Norway and its 
Scenery, p. 306. 

^ Laurgaa/rd. — Here a cross road tuns off, leading to 
the Otte-soe and across the Sogne-Fjeld to Eortun. — See 
Eoute 8. 

Tofte is the first of the stations, called Fjeld-Stuen, 
founded in 1120, by King Eyestein, as refuges for travellers 
crossing the Dovre-Ejeld. Before reaching it the road passes 
the village and church of which givos name to the 

district. On the right are seen the cluster of peaks called 
the Eundane-Ejeld. 

Lie. — The ascent of the B-ovre-Fjeld commences here, 
being very abrupt, through the most desolate scenery ima- 
ginable. The traveller changes horses at Eogstuen, another 
of the Ejeld-Stuen and a. most wretched place; and soon 

2 B 2 



402 EOUTE XYII. — CKEISTIAFA TO TEOISTDHJEM. 



after reaches the plateau of the Dovre-Fjeld, upwards of 
4000 feet above the level of the sea. 

Hjcerkin. — The peak of Sneehsettan is seen, and may be 
easily ascended, from the neighbourhood of this station. Its 
height, according to Mr. Esmark's admeasurement, is 8115 
feet, or nearly double that of Ben-Nevis. The station-house 
is very commodious, and supplied with every comfort. 
" One could stop here for any length of time in the very 
heart of the Dovre-Fjeld; there can be no lack of sport, 
and consequently of good feed, and no one can be more 
anxious to please than the station master."—" Captain 
Biddulph's Journal." Por further particulars of Snee- 
hsettan and the road over the Dovre-Fjeld, see " Norway • 
and its Scenery," pp. 296, &c. From Hjserkin a road turns 
off to the east, through Toldalen, and, crossing the Tron- 
Fjeld, meets the road from Christiania to Eoraas (Eoute 20) 
at Tonsset on the G-lommen. 

Kongsvold, — Good quarters here. The road now de- 
scends rapidly, and following the course of the Driva-Elv, 
is carried through a deep ravine, hemmed in on both sides 
with rocks, and frequently choked up with large masses. 
Dr. Clarke and the earlier travellers were in raptures with 
this scenery, comparing it to the finest passes in Switzer- 
land ; but those who have visited the western districts of 
Norway, think it inferior to much they have seen there. 

Oune. — There are good accommodations here, as well 
as at Sundseth, two stages further on. The valley gradually 
wddens, and the scenery becomes less bold and picturesque. 
Here a road turns off to the west, and following up the 
Driva-Elv, then descends the right bank of the Sundals-Elv 
to the Ejord, where travellers embark for Molde or Christian- 
sund. Our road to Trondhjem makes here a bend to the east. 

Garlid. — " The scenery between this station and Hov 
is peculiar and unlike anything I had seen. The road is 
good, but hilly, and every succeeding hill commands a great 
extent of fir-forest, stretching over a very undulating coun- 
try. The peculiarity is that a village crowns every emi- 
nence, while the whole country besides appears only a fit 
abode for wild animals." — " Price's Journal." 

SoJcncBs, — After leaving this station, the road descends 



EOTJTE XYIIT. — TO LILLEHAMMEE. 



403 



tlie valley of the Gula-Elv, whicli in some parts is very 
picturesque. Here the road from Eoraas to Trondlijem is 
joined. 

^'^ McbIJiuus. — The beautiful valley of the Gula-elv con- 
tinues all the way; it is highly cultivated and well peopled; 
with the broad and glittering stream in the middle, and com- 
manding fine views of forest-clad mountains. The whole 
antiquity of the nation is crowded together in this valley ; 
it is the cradle of the land." — Von Buch. See "Norway 
and its Scenery," p. 290. 

Trondlijem. — Eor particulars, see Eoute 11. 



ROUTE XVIII. 

CHEISTIANIA TO LILLEHAMMEE, BY WEST BANE! OP THE MJoSEN". 

This and the following Eoute fall in at Lillehammer with 
the great north road to Trondhjem ; but they are seldom 
adopted since the establishment of steam-boats on the 
Mjosen. They may be useful to tourists who, after an ex- 
cursion on that lake, wish to return by land in order to 
vary the journey; and more extensive views of the lake are, 
of course, commanded from its elevated shores than from 
the deck of a steam-boat. Of the two, Eoute 19, on the 
east side of the lake, is preferable, both in point of scenery 
and because the road on the eastern bank is very bad. 
From Christiania to Eidsvold the distances are given in 
Eoute 17; but the railway will supersede those stages. 

Piro, in Eidsvold . . 5|- 

^ Hammeren, in Hurdal . . If 

^ Grarsjo . . • . I- Pay for 1 m. 

Gronnen . . . . If Pay for If m. 

^ Alfstad, Lunden, or Sogstad 1 

* Hun, or Hund . . 1^ 

Sveen, in Birid . . . . 1 

Eotterud, or Grrytestuen 1^ 

Vignses; cross the Laagen to 

LILLEHAMMEE . . 1|- 



15f K m. E. m. 



404! 



EOUTE XIX. — TO LILLEHAMMEE. 



^ Sammeren, — The road coasts a small lake called the 
Hurdals-so. 

* At Alfstad there is an obelisk with a Eunic inscription. 
The gaard or mansion here is said to have been the resi- 
dence of a king named Alf. 

^ Between Garsjd and Lunden a high Fjeld is crossed. 
The views of the Mjosen-vand, with its bays and promon- 
tories, its cultivated banks, woods, villages, and churches, 
on this stage, and occasionally throughout the route, are 
very beautiful, 

* Ktrn, — There is a comfortable inn here. See tie 
observations prefixed to Eoute 16. 



ROUTE XIX. 



CHEISTIAKIA TO LILLEHAMMEE, BY EAST BANK OP THE MJoSEN. 



See Observations, prefixed to Eoute 16. 



To Eidsvold, as in Eoute 17 . 


. 5| 


Morstuen 




Korsodegaarden . . 


• H 


Noklebye 


1 


Thorsboug, in Vang 




Bjserke, in FurnsBs 


7 
8 


Eangberget, in Eingsaker 


. 1 


Mo, in ditto . . 


li 


Ereng, in ditto . . 




LILLEHAMMEE 


i| 




15f 



Pay for 1\ m. 
Pay for 1|- m. 



m. 107^ E. m. 

^ Morstuen, — The road passes so near the Mjosen-Vand 
that in some places its little waves dash the wheels of the 
carriole ; at others the road mounts high above its steep and 
rocky banks. There are fine views over the lake, with a mag- 
nificent back-ground of lofty mountains. The province of 
Hedemarken is here entered, remarkable for its rich soil, high 
cultivation, and the wealth and independence of the farmers. 

^ Korsodegaarden. — Erom this station Eoute 20 diverges to 
the eastward, meeting the Grlommen river, and continuing 
to Eoraas and Trondhjem. 



EOUTE XX. — CHUISTIANIA TO TRONDHJEM. 405 



^ Vang stands on an inlet of the lake at its broadest 
part; the Island of Helgeo, the only one on the lake, 
about the size of Cur wen's Island on Windermere (which 
the Mjosen somewhat resembles), lies off the mouth of the 
inlet ; On the island are the ruins of a castle built by 
Hako IV. Near Yang formerly stood the city of Stor- 
Hammer. It is said to have been a Norsk mile in circum- 
ference, and to have contained a palace, a cathedral, and 
many churches and monasteries. It was ravaged and de- 
stroyed by pestilence and fire in the fifteenth century, and 
no vestige of it remains, except some picturesque ruins of 
the cathedral. 



ROUTE XX. 

CHEISTIANIA TO TEGNDHJEM, BY THE GLOMMEN AKD EORAAS. 

The distance by this route to Trondhjem is about the 
same as that over the Dovre-Fjeld, Eoute 17. It is little 
frequented, but may be useful to tourists who wish to 
change their line of road in going to Trondhjem or return- 
ing ; or to include a visit to the copper mines at Eoraas, and 
the encampment of Lapps in that neighbourhood. The 
Glommen also is a noble river, the largest in Norway, its 
course to the sea extending more than 300 miles, and this 
road ascends its banks for two-thirds of the distance. In 
the low^er part of its course it waters a fine district ; and 
although the province of Osterdalen, through which the road 
ascends it northw^ard, is wild and uncultivated, there are 
magnificent pine forests, and the hunting and shooting is 
said to be excellent. It is almost the only part of Norway 
in which the elk is now found. 

Korsodegaarden 
"West Loken, in Eomedal 
Sigstad, or Aanestad 
^ G-rundsset, in Elverum 
Aasset 
Soknses 

Ophuus, in Stor-Elvedalen 
Messelt, in ditto 



If 

1 

1^ 

1^ 

7. 

8 

If 



See Eoutes 17 and 19. 



408 EOTJTE XX. — CHRISTIAITIA TO TEOKDHJEM, 



1 

2f Pay for 4 m. 

3 Pay for 4|- m. 
1^ Pay for 2 m. 
11 
11 

If Pay for 2 m. 
li l*^y iov 1^ m. 

H 
1 

1 
1 

If See Eoute 17. 

47f K m. SBli E. m. 

^ Grundscef. — A.t this station the road approaches the 
Glommen, which is here a fine majestic stream, not less 
than 200 yards broad. The road is excellent, and the viewa 
varied and picturesque. 

^ Vestgaard. — The high road here crosses the Grlommen, 
which it joins again at Tonsset, about 40 English miles 
further north : but there is a horse-road to the same point 
which follows the windings of the river all the way. The 
main road, diverted to the east by high mountains which 
close in upon the right bank of the river, after crossing it, 
passes over very high ground till it descends into Eeen-dalen 
and strikes the Stor-so. 

^ Ahre, — This station, in the valley of the Eena-elv, 
a stream which flows into the Stor-so, is reached after the 
long and hilly stage just mentioned. 

^ Engen, — All these stages are very hilly. The road 
still follows the course of the Eeena-elv, and passes at the 
foot of the Tron-Ejeld, 5761 feet high. 

^ Nedhg, in Tonscet, — " This is quite a large village, and the 
posting house is like an inn. The Glommen is here about as 
broad as the Towy at Carmarthen." — " Captain Biddulph's 



^ Vestgaard, in ditto 

^ Akre, in Hither Eeen-dalen 

Bergsset, in Over Eeen-dalen 
* Engen, in Tonsset 
^ JN'edby, in Tonsset 

Tolgen 

Os in Tolgen . . 

^ EoRAAS . . 

' Eoen, in Aalen 
Hov, in ditto 
Grrodfc, in Pligh Aalen 
Langledet, in ditto 
Kirkvold 
Bogen 

Eogstad, in Storen 
® Vollum, or VoUan 
Tboi^dhjem . . 



BY THE GLOMMEI^" AITD EOEAAS. 



407 



Journal." Here the route regains the valley of the Grlom- 
men, and the road fromHjserkin, through Foldalen, mentioned 
in Route 17, joins it. There is also a more direct road from 
hence to Trondhjem, by which the detour to E/Oraas is 
avoided. It goes by Evikne, crossing a high Fjeld before it 
descends into the valley of the Orka-elv, and joining the 
great north road, Eoute 17, at Grarlid. There are regular 
stations, whieh are given in the last authorized tables, as 
follows : — 

Lundsseter . • . . 1 

Tonsset . . 1^ 

Stoen . . . . 1 

Evikne . . . . 2 Pay for 2f m. 

Moen, in Do . . 1 

Naeverdal, in ditto . . 1^ 

Garlid . • . . 2^ Pay for 3 m. 

® Boraas, — This town, though it is situated 3000 feet 
above the level of the sea, in a most dreary and inhospitable 
district, has a considerable population, depending entirely 
on the copper mines, which are here worked and smelted. 
There are good accommodations at the Landsman's, an intel- 
ligent person, who is also the station-master. Prom Boraas 
an encampment of Lapps, on the Swedish frontier, with 
their herd of rein-deer, may be visited. See " JN'orway and 
its Scenery," p. 119. 

' Before arriving at Bden the route leaves the Glommen, 
which is here a mountain torrent with numerous falls and 
rapids, and has its source in the elevated Aasund-Soen, 
a little to the right. Soon afterwards the road falls in with 
one of the tributaries to the Gula-Elv, and follows its wind- 
ings through the glen, and afterwards the noble valley, of 
the Gula, till the river falls into the Trondhjem-Pjord. 
About Poen, therefore, is the watershed between the rivers 
which discharge themselves into the Skaggerack on the 
south, and those which fall into the northern ocean by the 
west of Norway. 

® Vollum. Here the road from Eoraas joins Eoute 17, 
the great northern road to Trondhjem. 



408 



EOrTE XXI. — CHEISTIANIA 



ROUTE XXI. 

CHEISTIANIA TO MOLDE, BY E0MSDALE2^. 

To tourists from Christiania, no more interesting tour can 
be suggested than that which this route offers either in 
itself or combined with the return by the Sogne-Fjord and 
Lierdals-oren, over the Eille Pjeld, Eoutes 10 and 16 ; or, 
extended to the Hardanger and south-western districts, by 
Eoutes 5 and 6, taking them the reverse way. Our present 
route embraces the lake scenery of the Mjosen, and crosses 
so near the foot of the Dovre-Ejeld, that by a short excur- 
sion its wild passes, and the Fjeld itself with Sneehgettan, 
may be included in the tour. For this excursion the tourist 
should make his resting place at the comfortable station of 
Hjserkin, two stations beyond Lie or Lid. Here our present 
route branches off from the great northern road, following 
the first course of the Laagen-elv, and then of the Eauma- 
elv ail the way to Veblungsnses on the Eomsdal-Fjord, 
which the to-urist is recommended to make a resting place. 
The scenery in this part of the route, which is through- 
out charming, increases in grandeur on the approach to 
Eomsdalen, through which wild and picturesque valley the 
road is conducted. There are regular stations all the 
way, and the journey jnay be performed in a carriole with 
horses bespoke by the forbud. Prom Molde, continuing 
the tour above sketched, the traveller will take the Bergen 
road, Eoute 10, as far as Lservig, on the Sogne-Fjord, which 
he will ascend in boats to Lierdals-oren; and from thence 
may return to Christiania, over the Fille-Ejeld. If, however, 
as before suggested, he proposes to include the Hardanger 
and objects connected with it, such as the Voring and 
Ejukan-Foss in his circuit, another branch of the Sogne- 
Fjord. will land him at Gudvangen, and taking the post- 
road to Vossevangen, he will cross to Eide on the Har- 
danger-Fjord, according to Eoute 5. That and the several 
other routes in the first, or south-western group, may be 
consulted as to the most eligible course of completing the 
intended circuit, bearing in mind that if the traveller has 
no wish to return to Christiania; all those routes centre in 



TO MOLDE, BY EOMSDALEIS". 



409 



Christiansund, from whence lie may have an opportunity of 
embarking for England. This, however, should be pre- 
viously ascertained, and the arrangements made accord- 
ingly. This extended tour may be accomplished in a 
month, with a reasonable selection of the most interesting 
points. 

The following are the stages from Lie to Molde ; the rest 
will be found in the routes referred to. 



From Christiania 
^ Holager . . 

Holseth 
^ Lgesjo-Ioernvserk 
^ Molmen 

Nystuen . . 
. Ormeim 

Fladmark . . 
* Horgheim 

Veblungsnseset 

Torvig 

Alfarnses . . 

Sollesnses 

Dvsergnaes 

Strande 

Molde 



291- Eoute 17. 

If 

H 
1 

1 pay for 1} m. 

1 

1 

H 



44i ]Sr. m. 



a09-J E. m. 



^ Holager. — Here the Laagen-Elv flows out of the Laesjo- 
Vand, and the road begins to skirt its northern shore. It is 
a singular natural phenomenon that both this river and the 
Eauma-Elv have their sources in the same lake, although 
one discharges its waters into the Skaggerak, which washes 
the south coast of Norway, and the other into the 
North Sea. The elevation of the lake must be consider- 
able, probably not less than 2000 feet above the level of 
the sea. 

^ Lcesjo Joerncerlc, or " Iron Works," from an old foundry. 

^ Molmen. — Between this and the last station the road 
coasts two small lakes, the largest of which has the name of 
Lsesjo-skogen, in Munch's Map. The scenery is varied and 



410 EOTJTE XXII. — CHBISTIAITIA TO KONGSYIl^GEE. 



picturesque all the way down tlie valley of Eomsdalen, which 
the river and the road here follow. 

* HorgJieim. — Soon after passing this station, the grand 
features of this celebrated valley commence and continue 
all the way to Veblungsnseset. See Eoute 10 for the con- 
tinuation of the route to, and an account of, Molde. 



ROUTE XXII. 

CHEISTIANIA TO KONGSVINaEE, ON THE SWEDISH TEGNTIEE. 

This is the most direct road to Stockholm ; the first three 
stages from Christiania being the same as in Koute 17. 

Grorud, in Aker . . 

Skrimstad, in Skedsmo 
^ Mo, in Sorum . . 

Langbakke, in TJllensaker 
^ Eaaholt, or Herberg, in Nsds 

Korsmo, in Odalen 

Sundby, in ditto 
^ KOjS'GSYIJSGEE . . 



SiN. m. 59|E. m. 

^ 3fd. — Half-way between this and the next station our 
road turns ofi* from that which leads to Minde, at the foot 
of the Mjosen-vand. 

^ Baaholt. — Before coming to Nses the road crosses the 
Vormen-Elv, which issues from the Mjosen-Vand at Minde. 
The Vormen joins the Glommen a little to the right of this 
road, which follows the course of the latter river all the way 
to Kongsgiver, through a level and fertile country. About 
one English mile from Raaholt is the Eon-Eossen, a con- 
siderable Eall. At this place the roar of the waters is heard 
from the road ; but it is not often visited. 

^ Kongsvinger (Kings-vinger) was formerly a frontier 
fortress of great strength. The citadel stands on a high 
point of land, washed on two sides by the Grlommen. It 
was of great importance during the long series of wars be- 
tween Sweden and Norway, but since the union of the two 



7. 

8 

I" pay for 1 m. 

3 
4. 

1| 
H 

3. 
4. 



EOUTE XXIII. — KOifaSYINaER TO EOEAAS. 411 



kingdoms, it has been dismantled. The Swedish border is 
crossed about 20 English miles from Kongsvinger. It is 
marked by boundary stones or pillars, a line of which ex- 
tends from near Stromstad, on the southern, to the Tana-Elv 
at the northern, extremity of the Scandinavian peninsula. 
" They are all numbered and fixed, as appears by Eorsell's 
[and other] maps, at intervals of from a half to one Norsk 
mile, the whole extent of the frontier." — " Captain Biddulph's 
Journal." 



ROUTE XXIII. 

KONGSVINaEE TO EOBAAS AND TEONDHJEM. 

There are roads on both banks of the Glommen as far 
north as Grunds^t in Elverum, where they join Eoute 20. 
The stages on both are given, completing the line of the valley 
of the Glommen, south to Kongsvinger. Of the two, that 
on the left bank is preferable 5 in both, Skulstad, -} m., is the 
first stage. 



On BigJit Bank, 

JSTses, in Grue . . 1^ 

Holmrydningen, in ditto 1-|- 

Lovaasen, in Hof, « . \ 

Dengen, in AasnsDS \ 

Braskerud, in Vaaler • . 1^ 

Berger, in Elverum If 

Grunds^t, in ditto . . 1^ 

N. miles 7|- 



On Left Banh, 

Nord, in Brandvold . • 1 

Bold, in Grue . . 1 

Anstad, in Hof • . 1^ 

Kongelbaek, in Aasnsas f 

Vaaler . . . . . . 1 

Elsset .. 4 

Houm, in Elverum . . 1^ 

Grundsset . . . . 1^ 

N. miles 8|- 



ROUTE XXIV. 

CHEISTIANIA TO LAUEVIG- AND POESGEUND. 

This route connects Christiania with the principal towns 
on the west bank of the Cristiania-Ejord and with Ere- 
deriksvsDrn, the principal station of the Norwegian navy. 



412 EOUTE XXIT. — CHRISTIAITIA TO LAIJRYIG. 



At Porsgrund it joins Eoute 4, whicli proceeds west to 
Christiansand. 

ISTaes, in Asker . . If 
G-jellebsek 1^^ 

^Drammek . . . • 1^ 
Ostre, in Sande 1 

Eevaa, in ditto • • t 

^ HOLMESTRAKD . . 1^ 

SoUerod, in Undrumsdal If 
^ Fyldpaa, near Tonsbeeg f Fyldpaa to Tonsberg ^ m. 

Sorbye, in Stokke . . f 

Haukerod . . 1 

Maannjordet . . If 

^ Laurvio . . If Laurvig to Frederiksvaern f m. 

Yasbaatten . . • • f 

Kokkersvold, in Eidanger 1 
^ POBSOEUND . . 1 

16fN. m. 114fE. m. 

^ Drammen. — See Eonte 9. 

^ At Brusserod, between Holmestrand and SoUerod, a road 
turning off to the left leads to Sorfen, a town becoming of 
some importance from its naval arsenal and school. Dis- 
tances : Horten, If m. ; Horten to Kjser, 1 m. ; Kjaer to 
Pyldpaa, f m. The rocks near Holmestrand are grand, and 
the town finely situated. 

^ Fyldpaa. The town of Tonsberg is pleasantly situated 
on a smaU branch of the Pjord, half a mile north from this 
station. It was anciently a place of great trade and import- 
ance, and one of the largest towns in Norway ; but it long 
since fell into decay. Jarlsberg, the seat of the Counts 
Wedel Jarlsberg, stands near Tonsberg. This family is one 
of the last of the noble families of Norway which has re- 
tained its rank, all titles of honour having been abolished 
by the democratic constitution of 1814, with a reservation 
in favour of the present possessors and their children. 

* Laurvig stands at the head of a large bay, backed by 
rocky hills, in some places covered with woods, in which a 
few small oaks, a species of timber confined in Norway to 



EOUTE XXY. — CHEFSTIANIA TO DEOBAK. 413 



the neighbourhood of the south coast, are mingled with 
pines and birch. There are also groves of beech. The 
town contains about 4000 inhabitants. 

® FrederihsvcBrn, — A strong castle, at one extremity of the 
bay on which Laurvig stands; and here there is a sandy 
beech, a great rarity on the coasts of IN'orway, The fortress 
has a garrison, and is mounted with heavy cannon, and is 
the principal station of the Norwegian navy, consisting of 
only one frigate, a few corvettes, brigs, and schooners ; its 
principal strength being in gun-boats, of which there are 
140, heavily armed. Sandcesuiid^ a little port to the east- 
ward, at the entrance of the Christiania Tjord, has become 
of some importance, from the steamers calling at it. 

^ I*orsgrund. — See Eoute 4. 



EOUTE XXV. 

CHBISTIANIA TO DEOBAE:, MOSS, AND FEEDEEIKSTAD. 

This route connects the towns on the east side of the 
Christiania Fjord. A steam-boat leaves Christiania every 
Tuesday and Friday morning, from May till August, for 
Frederikshald, calling at all these towns, and returns on 
Monday and Wednesday: a very pleasant way of making 
the excursion, from the varied beauties of the Christiania 
Fjord. The stages by the land route are as follows :— 

Prinsdal 

Melbye, in Aas 
^ Deobak 

Korsegaard 

Sundbye 

Soner 
^ Moss 

Dillingen . . 

Carlshuus 

Kjolbergbro 
^ Feederikstad 



li 

5. 
8 
3. 
4. 
3. 
4- 

li 
1 



11 K m. 77 E. m. 



414 



EOTJTE XXYI. — CHEISTIANIA 



^ Drobak has a population of 1500 souls, and a consider- 
able export trade, prineipallj in deals. 

^ The town of Moss, environed by pine-woods, stands on 
a little bay, where a torrent rushes precipitously into the 
Fjord. On this stream, at intervals, are placed a great 
number of saw-mills, which convert the pine-logs into "deals" 
with astonishing rapidity. — See " JSTorway and its Scenery," 
p. 147. Moss has a population of 4000, and a large export 
trade, supplied by the saw-mills. 

^ Frederikstad, at the mouth of the main branch of the 
river Grlommen, a town of 4000 inhabitants, was formerly 
of considerable importance as a frontier garrison in the 
wars wdth Sweden; the fortifications still remaining, but 
being now neglected. 



ROUTE XXVI. 

CHEISTIAKIA TO FEEDERIKSHALD AND SWINESUND, 

This route, crossing the Swedish frontier at Swinesund, 
is the road either to Stockholm by the south bank of the 
"Wener lake, or to Grothenburg by Uddevalla and the Tails 
of Trolhaettan. It was formerly the usual way of entering 
Norway by land routes, and is still the only practicable 
one in winter, when the navigation is stopped by the ice. 
The stages are the same as those in Eoute 25, as far as 
Carlshuus, where the road branches off from that to Pre- 
derikstad. A steam-boat makes the voyage twice a week 
from Christiania to Trederikshald. — See particulars in 
Eoute 25. ' 

Carlshuus . . • . ^1 

Haraldstad, in Tune . . 1^ 
^ Saepsboeg \ 

Ojstad, in Skjeberg . . 1\ 

Vestgaard, on the Swine sui^dC^) 1 
^ Feedeeikshald f 

Hogdal, in Sweden If 



13^ N m. 92J E m. 



TO FEEDEEIKSHALD AiTD SWINESUKD. 



415 



^ Sarpsborg, a town on the Glommen, formerly of some 
consequence, but destroyed in the Swedish wars. The site, 
with the adjoining estate of Borregaard, having been pur- 
chased by an English merchant, Sir John Pelly, has recently, 
it is understood, been sold to Mr. Sewell, both having exten- 
sive commercial connections with JN'orway. The town is 
rebuilt, and, being well situated for an export trade in 
timber, is again rising to importance. The Fall of the 
Glommen, called the Sarps-Foss, is very magnificent, from 
the vast body of water it discharges, though the height is 
not considerable, and the number of saw-mills detract from 
the picturesque efiect. 

2 Swinesund is a narrow Fjord, forming, with the rocky 
barriers on both shores, the frontier between Sweden and 
Norway. It is approached by a long and precipitous 
descent, and all its features are very picturesque. 

^ Frederihsliald, on a lower branch of the Swinesund, is 
a frontier town of considerable size and trade, the popu- 
lation being 4000. The fortress called Frederiksteen, for- 
merly esteemed impregnable, is built upon an escarped rock, 
is inaccessible on three sides. Charles XII. of Sweden was 
killed while besieging it in 1718. — See "Isorway and its 
Scenery," p. 143. 



2 E 



416 



SECTION III. 

ROUTES BY STEAM-SHIPS, FROM ENGLAND, FROM THE 
CONTINENT, AND ROUND THE COAST OF NORWAY. 

I. The communications by steam direct from England to 
Norway and Sweden, hitherto conducted by Messrs. Thomas 
Wilson, Sons, and Co., of Hull, will for the future be in 
the hands of the North of Europe Steam Navigation Com- 
pany, whose offices are at 84, King William Street. Eor 
the present, the station will remain at Hull, with commu- 
nications during the season to Christiania every fortnight, 
and to Gothenburg weekly, the boats starting from Hull on 
Saturday. The fare to Christiaina is 4Z. 4^. for the best 
cabin, 21, Vis. 6d. fore cabin; the voyage being performed 
in about sixty hours. The boats leave Christiania on their 
return every Tuesday fortnight. It is, however, in con- 
templation to have a direct iveehly communication, both 
with Christiania and Grothenburg, by larger and more 
powerful steamers, and the station will probably be moved 
from Hull to Grrimsby. Information respecting the Com- 
pany's arrangements from time to time can, of course, be 
readily procured at their offices. 

II. There is now a line of steam navigation established 
between Hamburg, Christiansand, and Bergen. A new 
and powerful steam-boat is building in England for this 
Company. The boats leave Hamburg every Thursday, and 
reach Christiansand in about thirty-five hours. They touch 
at Stavanger on the voyage from Bergen, returning to and 
from Christiansand to Hamburg every Saturday. Tourists 
whose design is to visit the western districts of Norway 
in the first instance, can meet the Hamburg line by the 
boats direct from London to that place, in case the Hull 
steam-boats should still fail of calling at Christiansand ; or 
they may take the "overland route" to Hamburgh, as 
pointed out in the preliminary observations. 

III. There is a Norwegian steam-boat every week be- 



ROUTES OF STEAM-SHIPS. 



417 



tween Copenliagen, Gotlienburg, and Christiania, from the 
middle of April to the end of October. 

IV. Another Norwegian steam-boat plies weekly during 
the season between Christiania and Eel, at the bottom of 
the G-reat Belt, calling at Nyborg, in the island of Funen 
off the coast of Jutland. The voyage is performed in about 
forty-eight hours, the boats, by the latest accounts, leaving 
Kiel every Saturday, and Christiania every Tuesday. To 
join these boats by the " overland route," through Belgium 
and G-ermany, the principal stages are Ostend, by steam- 
boat, first day; Cologne, second day; Hanover, tliird day; 
Hamburg and Kiel, /az^r^^ day; there being a line of railway 
the whole distance from Ostend. 

Y. There is communication during the season every week 
between Christiania and Christiansand, the boats calling 
at Sandgesund, at the entrance of the Fjord, where they 
meet the steam-boat from Kiel; so that tourists intending 
to proceed at once to the west of Norway may thus fall in 
with the group of routes connected with that part of the 
country. 

VI. A steam-boat leaves Christiansand for Bergen every 
week, at present, and, calling at all the intermediate ports, 
performs the voyage in two days, returning in the same 
manner. 

VII. Steam-boats start from Bergen once a fortnight for 
Trondhjem and Hammerfest, calling at the intermediate 
places, and returning in the same manner. These boats 
wiU likewise during the present season proceed northwards 
from Hammerfest, doubling the North Cape and calling at 
G-jesvaer, within 2 N. miles of the Cape, continuing the 
voyage to Vardo and Vadso, on the east coast of Finmarken, 
and touching at Stangenses, at the mouth of the Tana- 
Fjord; the whole circuit from Christiania being performed in 
seventeen days. The Table subjoined, contains the stations, 
vdth distances and fares. All the Norwegian steam -boats 
carry mails, and are commanded by officers of the royal navy 
who, in general, speak English. The table, accommodations, 
and society are good, the charges for diet moderate, and 
the voyage may be performed with comfort, the course for 
the greater part lying under shelter of the numerous islands 
which lie off the coast ; the scenery being, of course, the 

2 E 2 



418 



EOUTE OF STEAM-EOATS 



finest of the kind. A detailed account is published every 
year, under the authority of a department of the Norwegian 
government, containing particulars of the days and hours at 
which the steamers start, and call at the several stations, 
in all their voyages for the season, which commences in 
April and ends in October. 



TABLE 

OF THE EOUTE OF THE COAST STEAM-BOATS, WITH DISTANCES, 
AND FARES. 



Stations. 


N. M. 


Fares. 


Christiania. 


■ 


Sp.d. Sk. 


Drobak . . . . . , 


4 




Holmestrand 


8 




Jtiorten 


8 




Moss . • 


8 




Vallo 


10 




kJdiiLlct/o U-llLl • • • • 


.1 o 




Sandefjord . . 


16 




Frederiksvsern . . 


16 


2 48 


Breyig 


20 


3 


Langesund 


19 




Kragero 


21 




Eiisoer 


25 




Haven, near Tvedestrand 


28 




Arendal 


31 


4 75 


Grim s tad 


34 




Lillesand and Humlesund . . 


37 




Christiansand 


41 


5 105 


Eleven, near Mandal 


47 




Tarsund 


53 




riekkefjord 


59 


8 15 


Esegefjord, in Sognddal 


60 




Egersund 


63 





BOUND THE COAST^ 



419 



Stations. 




Fares. 








Sp.d. Sk. 


Stavanoeb . . 


• • 


76 


10 30 


Kobbervig 


• • 


78 




Haugesund . . 




80 




Mosterhavn 


• • 


85 




Lervig 




87 




Teroen.. 




91 




Bukken 




94 


12 105 


BERaEI^ 


• • 


97 




Skjaerjeliavii 




107 




Sauesund 




113 




Fseresund . . 


• • • 


117 




Moldoen 


• • 


124 




Larsnses 




132 




Egsund 


• • 


135 




Aalesund 




139 


19 SO 


MOLDE . . 




148 




Christia]S"sund 




155 


20 15 


^do . . 




159 




Haven 


» • • 


165 




Bejan . . 




170 




E/odbjerget . . 




174 




Teondhjem 




177 


22 105 


Valdersund 


• • • 


178 




Siid-Krogoen 


• • 


180 




Bjoroen (Namsen) 


» % • 


186 


24 


^ord-Krogoen . . 


e • 


191 




Gudvig 


• • 


196 




Bronosund 




202 




Alstahaeug . . 




208 




Kobberdal 




212 




Anklakken . . 




218 




Eodo . . 




221 




Stot 


• • 


226 




Grildeskaal 


• • 


230 




BODO 




235 


28 45 



420 



STEAM-BOATS BOUND THE COAST. 



Stations. 


N M. 


Fares. 






Sp.d. Sk. 


Kierrmgo . . 

•JO ■ 


239 




Groto . . 


2U 




Skraaven . . . • . . 


249 




Svolvser 


250 




Stejlo . . . , . . 


258 




Lodingen . . 


255 




Sandtorv . • . . 


259 




Harstad-havn • . 


263 




Havnik . . « , 


264 




Kastn8DS-havn 


268 




Kloven 


272 




Gibostad 


275 




Teomso 


282 


36 


Karlso • • , . 


189 




Havnaes 


294 




Skjervo • • 


285 




Loppen 

J: J: ^ 


299 




Hasvik . . 


303 




Oxfjord . . 


305 




Talvik .. 


311 




Bosekop (Alten) 


313 


39 105 


Kaafjorden • • . • 


314 




Hammeefest 


325 


39 75 


Giesvser (North Cape) 


331 




Stangenses (Tana-rjord) 






Vardo . . 






Vadso . . 







There may, perhaps, be some unimportant changes in the 
stations, or fares, which may always be ascertained from the 
Annual Tables. 



421 



SECTION IV. 

TRAYELLmG POST.— EATES OF PAYMENT EOR HORSES, 
&c.— THE SKYDS LAW.— THE EORBUD, &c. 

The rates of payment for horses and boats have been 
reduced by a recent ordinance of the Storthing. The follow- 
ing Tables are calculated according to the new regulations. 



TABLE 

OF PATMEI^'TS POE ONE HOSSE, FEOM TOWN AND COUNTEY STATIONS, 
PEE NOESK MILE. 



Distance. 


At ordinary 
stations in the 
country. 


At fast stations in 
the country, and 
town stations, 
not fast. 


At fast stations 
in towns. 




Sp. d. 


Mks. 


Sk. 


Sp.d. 


Mks. 


Sk. 


Sp. d. 


Mks. 


Sk. 


1 mile 




3 




^2 




6 


1 

4 






6 






9 






12 


3 






9 






iH 






18 


i 






12 






18 




1 




3 






15 






991 

— 2 




1 


6 


3 






18 




1 


3 




1 


12 


7 






21 




1 


71. 




1 


18 


1 mile . . 




1 






1 


12 




2 




u 




1 


3 




1 


161 




2 


6 


H 




1 


6 




1 


21 




2 


12 


If 




1 


9 




2 


U 




2 


18 


u 




1 


12 




2 


6 




3 








1 


15 




2 


10| 




3 


6 


1^ 




1 


18 




2 


15 




3 


12 






1 


21 




2 


lOl 




3 


18 


2 miles | 




2 






3 






4 





The station-master's fee (tilsigelse) is in all cases 4 sk. 
per stage for each horse, besides the above payments. A 
"fast station" is one where horses are always ready. A 
carriole and harness are charged 6 sk. extra, a country car and 
harness 4 sk., and bridle and saddle 2 sk., per Norsk mile. 



422 



TABLE 

OP PAYMENTS TOR TWO AND THREE HOESES AT THE OEDINAET EATB 
OP COUNTRY STATIONS. 



Distance. 



^ mile 

JL 
4 
3 

8 • • • • • 

2 • • • • • 

5 

8 

3 

4 

7 

8 .... . 

1 mile . 

li 

li 

If 

H 

-•-8 

^4 

1 8 . . . . , 

2 miles 



Two Horses. 



Sp. dol. 



Marks. 



1 
1 
1 
1 

2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
3 
3 
3 
4 



Sk. 

6 
12 
18 

6 
12 
18 

6 
12 
18 

6 
12 
18 



Three Horses. 



Sp, dol. 



1 
1 
1 



Marks. 



1 
1 
1 

2 
2 
3 
3 
3 
4 
4 
4 



'Sk. 

9 
18 

3 
12 
21 

6 
15 

9 
18 
3 

12 » 
21 
6 
15 



For fast stations in the country, and ordinary town 
stations 12 sk'. per mile, and for fast stations in towns 24 sk. 
per mile (one mark), must be added to the calculations in 
this table, besides the payments for carriages and harness. 
Until the recent alteration in the Skyds-law, the charges 
were 48 sk. per mile from ordinary town stations, and 72 sk. 
per mile from fast stations in towns, instead of 36 and 48 
respectively, the reduced charges. The statement in the 
Introductory Chapter, under the head of ''The Service by 
Post" requires correction in this particular. 



423 



TABLE 

OF EATES OF PAYMENTS FOE BOATS. 











Sk. 


4-oared boat 


12 


to 15 feet 


keel 


8 


6-oared boat 


15 


to 18 feet 


keel 


12 


8-oared boat 


18 


to 30 feet 


keel 


16 


10-oared boat 


30 


and over 




24 


Eor every boatman 








28 


Where there is a licensed 










company 








30 



The "tilsigelse'* of 2 sk. to the station-master for each 
boatman is now abolished, as well as all difference between 
the rates of payment for boats between town and country 
stations. In Norway, each rower pulls two oars ; so that a 
four-oared boat requires two men ; and so of the rest. No 
distinction is now made between a row-boat and a sailing- 
boat. The boatmen have no claim to " drikke-penge," but 
in long stages by water a promise of " schnapps " will 
sometimes quicken their exertions, which are not very 
vigorous. In navigating the Fjords under sail, the traveller 
should never allow the sheets, or halyards, to be made fast, 
on account of the sudden squalls which frequently occur. 
The ropes should be held in the hand ready to be let 
loose instantly, otherwise there is danger of being cap- 
sized by the gusts of wind rushing down the gorges of the 
Fields. 

: SZTDS LAW. 

Travelling post in Norway, as before observed, is regu- 
lated by law. The regulations of the Ordinance of the 
6th June, 1815, and others, so far as they generally affect 
English travellers, have been already mentioned. It re- 
mains to notice those of the Ordinance of the 24th Sep- 
tember, 1851, which has made some changes, besides a 
reduction in the fares for horses and boats. 



424 



SKTDS LAW. 



By Section 2, it is ordained that the Amptmand shall de- 
termine the number of station horses and reserve horses to 
be kept at the fast stations. On less frequented roads the 
number of horses may be fixed at two or three, provided 
the station-keeper secures to himself the means of pro- 
curing a sufficient number of reserve horses to meet the 
requirements of the road. Instead of the time formerly 
allowed, the traveller must in future wait three-quarters, 
or one hour, at the stations not fast, if required [i. e., when 
horses are not pre-engaged by forbud]. 

By Section 9. In addition to the cars and other con- 
veyances which the station-masters in the country are 
required to furnish by a former Ordinance, station-masters 
in towns and at fast stations are further enjoined to furnish 
carrioles, and travelling cars on springs, with cushions and 
leather aprons, for which 6 sk. per mile is allowed. 

By Section 14, it is ordained that the traveller who keeps 
the horses or boat he has ordered w^aiting one hour beyond 
the time appointed by himself shall pay at the rate of one- 
quarter of a mile for every horse, or every boatman, and half 
as much for every additional half-hour they are kept waiting 
up to the regulated payment for one mile. The " skyds," 
whether horses or boatmen, need not wait more than two 
hours and a half for the traveller, who, arriving after that 
lapse of time, must pay the waiting money he has forfeited, 
before he can be provided wdth fresh skyds. 

[If the traveller is detained at a previous station, and 
brings a certificate to that efiect, which the station-master 
is required to give, or by the weather, or an accident, he is 
not liable to any penalty for the delay. And also by the 
old law of the 6th June, 1815, still in force, if the forbud 
arrives three hours before the time at w^hich horses or boat- 
men are required to be at the station, and they are not 
there when the traveller arrives, the owner of the horses or 
the station-master making default, is fined one sp. dollar for 
the delay.] 

By Section 11 two persons may travel with one horse, 
on payment at the rate of a single fare and a half, carrying 
with them luggage of the weight of 24 lbs. and 36 lbs. 
respectively. If two persons travel entirely without lug- 
gage, and fchey provide a separate conveyance for the skyds- 
karl, they pay one fare only. In the latter case, they may 



THE FOEEUD. 



425 



put luggage to the amount of 192 lbs. weight on the ear 
occupied by the driver. [The weight of luggage allowed 
for a single traveller with one horse is 64 lbs.] 

By Section 4 of the Law of the 6th June, 1815, if the 
traveller has the reins in his hands, and is himself driving, 
should any accident occur, he is responsible for the damage 
done. Drivers are required to keep on the right side of the 
road, and not occupy more than one-half, under the penalty 
of 1 sp. dollar. If the traveller ill-uses or over-drives the 
horse, the station-master, on complaint of the post-boy, and 
with the assistance of two others, is to assess the damage, 
which must be deposited (subject to an appeal) before he is 
supplied with a fresh horse. 

By Section 6 of the same Law, the traveller must pay 
all tolls for roads or bridges, in addition to the skyds 
money. 

THE FOKBUD. 

Directions for sending the forbud are given in the pre- 
liminary chapter. The charge is, 24 sk. per mile, the 
ordinary rate of payment for one horse. If the forbud 
tickets are sent by post, only 4 sk. for each station is paid. 
Tickets may be procured in blank at aU the principal towns, 
according to the following form. 

Form of Forhud TicJcet, loitTi the llanlcs supplied, 

@fl)b6ffaffetftebet [Jonsrud] teftille^: 

ftger [een] ^eji tneb ©oele 

ftger [tre} ^eft [e] 

at fiaae foerbig [0ns] bagen ben [6te Juli,] 1853- 

[Vor-] mibbagen [otte.] 
3Keb S'ortubet (ber Betaleg i?eb Unbertegnebe^ Unlontft) folger : 
[een Kaffert, een Ssek.] 

A. B. 

[Christiania] ben 4de Juli, 1853. 



426 



THE rOEBrD. 



The Form translated, as filled up. 

At the Skyds Station Jonsrud are ordered, 

Say, one horse with harness. 

Say, three loose horses. 
To stand ready, Wednesiaj, the 6th July, 1853. 

Jbrenoon, at 8 o'clock. 
With the Forbud (which is to be paid on the arrival of 

the undersigned) there comes one portmanteau, one 

lag. A. B. 

Christiania, 4ith July, 1853. 

Directions have been already given for calculating the 
rate of travelling, so as carefully to fix the time ot arrival at 
the several stations. The tickets must have the traveller's 
signature, and should be numbered, and duplicates kept, 
or a correct list, with the days and hours for each station 



427 



SECTION V. 

THE LANGUAGE.— VOCABULAEY OP COMMON WORDS AND 
PHRASES. 

During- tlie many centuries in which Norway was sub- 
ject to the kings of Denmark, the Danish idiom of the old 
Norsk tongue, superseded the Norwegian dialect, not only 
in official and other writings, but in the common usage of 
the people. Originally, the language of the three Scandi- 
navian countries was called Danshe Tunge; the variations 
arose in the developments of later periods. At present, the 
Norwegian language, as it is written and spoken in good 
society, is identical with the Danish, although the pronun- 
ciation is somewhat different, varying also with provincial 
dialects. Referring to the preliminary chapter for a sugges- 
tion of a simple mode of acquiring such words and phrases 
as may suffice for the tourist's most necessary demands 
while travelling through the country, the present Section is 
intended to offer him some further assistance. 

Almost all Norwegian documents, forbud tickets, tables 
of routes, &c,, which the tourist will have occasion to use, 
as well as newspapers and books, are, like German publica- 
tions, printed in Gothic letters. These are so familiar, or 
so easily decyphered, that they will occasion little difficulty; 
but the small letter k (e.g. in iffe, ikke, oiot) may perhaps 
puzzle a stranger, and the capitals D and Cl, O and may 
be mistaken for the letter 2), D. 

The Danish alphabet contains twenty-seven letters, 
omitting and adding cd diphthong and o as distinct charac- 
ters. K and Q are used indiscriminately, and Dr. Hask, in 
his grammar, rejected the Q altogether as superfluous. The 
dipthong cs has rather the sound of ai than that which we 



428 



KOESK LANGUAGE. 



give it. The a, with two dots over it, is pronounced like the 
Trench diphthong 6e, in ceil or oeuf. The double aa, w-hich 
frequently occurs, has the sound of our oa, as Aagaard, pro- 
nounced Oagoard. which is invariably sounded when 
final, conveys the sound both of the French ferme, and 
e, ouvert. The open e is exactly like the diphthong ce, as in 
Herre, gentleman. The simple o has also both open and 
close sounds, as Kop, a cup, JBrdder, brother. The vowel / 
has the sound of our y consonant, as Fjord — Ft/ord; while 
the Danish y is pronounced like the Trench u. The pro- 
nunciation of the consonants scarcely varies from our own, 
except that d following a consonant has no perceptible 
expression, and serves merely to increase the sound of the 
preceding consonant, as Fjeld, a mountain range, pro- 
nounced Fyell; Fjord — Fijdr. 

In such a work as this it would be useless to attempt to 
make the grammatical inflections comprehensible. They 
are in general very simple and correspond with the English, 
and a short study of Eask's Danish Grrammar would prepare 
the tourist for the practical learning already pointed out. 
There is also a small portable edition of an English and 
Danish dictionary, lately published at Leipsic which would 
be useful. Both these works can be procured at the foreign 
booksellers in London. A short and easy Norsk, or 
Dansk, grammar calculated for the use of English tra- 
vellers by an intelligent Norwegian scholar, Mr. Edward 
."Wittriip, of Arendal, is now in course of publication by 
Mr. Cappelen, at Christiania, which will doubtless be also 
sold in London. 

One or two observations may prevent some mistakes. It 
may be well to remember that s is not the sign of the plural 
number in Dansk, as it is in a large class of English words, 
but of the genitive case, as we say " the journey '5 end," but 
the genitive of words signifying inanimate substances is gene- 
rally rendered, as in English, by af, as Taget af Huset, the 
roof of the house ; while the plural of nouns in Dansk is 
formed by e or er, as Dag, day, Dage; Kong^ king, Konger. 
Again, foreigners are sometimes perplexed by the way in 
which the definite articles are made the terminations of 
nouns substantives as often occurs in naming objects in 
their journey, as Elv, river, Mven, the river; Dal, a valley, 



THE I^rMEEALS. 



429 



Dalen\^ tlie valley; Horunger, the name of a mountain, Hornn- 
gurne, tlie Horunger mountains. The articles form perhaps 
the greatest peculiarity in the Danish language, and as they 
are necessary in the simplest intercourse, it may be as well 
to name them. There are two, en for the masculine and 
feminine genders, and et for the neuter. When prefixed, in 
which case they are not joined to the substantive, they 
constitute the indefinite articles, and when affixed they 
become the definite: thus, Hest, horse; en Sest, a horse; 
Hesten, the horse. Ne is always the definite article of the 
plural, as Seste, horses, Sestene, the horses ; genitive, 
Hestens^ of the horse, Hestenes, of the horses. Before ad- 
jectives, the demonstrative pronoun den, det, de, is employed 
as the definite for the neuter, common, and plural, as den 
gamle Stol, the old chair; det sJcjonne Land, the fine country ; 
de Hvide Seste, the white horses. 

The personal pronouns are leg (pronounced yei), I; dit, 
thou ; Jian, he ; hun, she : vi, we ; I, you ; de, they. The 
third person plural Be is used in addressing a person, 
instead of du, or J; and in writing to another, the words De, 
Dem, and Deres, are commenced with capital letters. To 
do otherwise would be esteemed a mark of disrespect. The 
objective cases of personal pronouns are mig, me ; dig, thee ; 
Jiam, him ; liende, her. Plural, os, us ; vores, ours ; eders 
(jer) yours. The possessive pronouns are mit, min, mine, 
my, mine ; dit, din, dine, thy, thine ; sit, sin, sine, its, his, 
hers, and theirs, in the neuter, common, and plural, respec- 
tively; and vort^ vor, vore, our, ours; jert (jer), jere, your, 
yours. 



NUMEEALS. 



1. Een, one. 

2. To, tivo. 
Tre, three, 
^ire, four. 
~Fem,five, 
Sex, sia:. 
Syv, seven. 

8. Otte, eight. 

9. Ni, nine. 



10. Ti, ten. 

11. Elleve, eleven. 

12. Tolv, twelve. 

13. Tretten, thirteen. 

14. Fj orten , fourteen. 

15. 'YemteT^., fifteen. 

16. Sexten, sixteen. 

17. Sytten, seventeen. 

18. Atten, eighteen. 



430 



DAYS OF THE WEEK. 



19. Nitten, nineteen. 

20. Tyve, twenty, 

21. Een og Tyve. 

22. To og Tyve, &c. 
80. Tredive. 



60. Tredsindst}^e. 
70. Halv-fjerds.* 
80. rjirdsindstyve. 
90. lialvfems.* 
100. Hundrede. 



40. Tyrretyve. 



1000. Tusende. 



50. Halv-treds.* 



Den Porste..The first. 



Den Tredie..Tlie third. 



Den Anden. .The second. Den Tjerde. .The fourth, &c. 



Eengange . . Once. Togange . . Tv\'ice. Tregange . . Thrice. 

The Norwegian method of reckoning by Jialves is rather 
puzzling to a stranger. Thus Klokken er halvtre " means 
that it is half-past two o'clock, or halfway hetween two and 
three. So " Halv-tredsindstyve," fifty ^ signifies that it is 
halfway from forty towards three times twenty, or sixty, 
which is fifty. 

If a stage be a mile and a-half, you may perhaps be told 
that it is "Halvanden Miil," or halfway towards the second 
mile; but more probably that it is "Sex Fjerding," or six 
quarters. If the distance be half a mile and one-eighth, 
they will call it " Fem Ottendeel," or five-eighths. If the 
traveller be told that the stage is " Halv Sex Fjerding," he 
must not fancy it to be only three-fourths, or the half of six; 
he will find it to be five-fourths and one-eighth, or halfway 
fr 07)1 five towards six^ upou the principle before explained. 



Den Forste Grang. . . .The first time. 
Den Anden Grang .... The second time. 



DATS OP THE WEEK. 



Monday Mandag. 

Tuesday Tirsdag. 

"Wednesday Onsdag. 

Thursday Tors dag. 



Friday 

Saturday 

Sunday 



Fredag. 

Loverdag. 

Sondag. 



* Short for Halv-tredsindstyve, Halv-fjerd-smdstyve,Halv-femsmdstyve. 
Femti is also \x^Qdi fov fifty ; Sexti, for sixty; Sytti, for seventy; Otti, 
for eighty; Nitti, for ninety. 



VOCABULAET. 



431 



The montlis are written nearly as in English. The 
following words may conveniently find a place in connection 
with computations of time and distance. 



Mid-day 

To-day 

To-night 

Yesterday 

To-morrow 

In the evening 

Early 

Late 

Long (time) 
Long (space) 
Short 

Quick, directly 
Slow 

Two, three o'clock. 



Mid-dag, 

Idag. 

Inat. 

Igaar. 

Imorgen. 

IqueU. 

Tidlig. 

Seen. 

Lsenge. 

Long. 

Kort. 

Snart. Strax. 
Langsom. 
Klokken To, Tre, 



VOCABULARY. 

1. Common Expressions of Civility and on Casual Intercourse* 



Good morning. 
Good evening. 
How do you do ? 

I come from 

I am going to 

I am an Englishman. 
We travel to see the coun- 
try. 

Norway is a beautiful coun- 
try. ' 

Tou are a fine people. 

I cannot talk Norwegian. 
I can only speak a few 
words. 

I do not understand tnat. 
Tou must speak slowly 



God Morgen. 
God Aften. 

Hvorledes befinder De Dem ? 

leg kommer fra 

leg reiser till 

Leg er en Engelskmand. 
V^i reise for at see Landet. 

Norge er et smukt Land. 

Be er et bravt Eolk (Scotch, 

braw). 
leg kan ikke tale Norsk, 
leg kan kuns tale nogle faae 

Ord. 

leg forstaaer ikke det. 
De maae tale langsomt, 
2 E 



432 



AT A.-N IIS-N OR EESTING-PLACE. 



Do you understand me ? 
"What is your name ? 
What o'clock is it ? 

Be so good as to 

Many thanks. 

Thanks shall you have. 

Thanks for the meal. 

The mistress is kind; obliging. 

The daughter is pretty. 
The girl is civil. 
G-entleman. 
Lady. 

Young Lady. 

(If of an inferior class). 

Grood day. 

Grood bye ! Tarewell ! 



Torstaaer De mig? 
Hvad hedder De ? 
Hvad er Klokken? 
Vser saa god at — — 
Mange Tak. 
Tak skal De have. 
Tak f5r Maden. 
Huusmoderen er sserdeles 

forekommende. 
Datteren er smuk. 
Pigen er artig. 
Herre. 
Prue. 
Troken. 
J omfru. 
God dag. 
Adjel Farvel! 



2. At an inn or resting-place. 



Can I get anything to eat ? 
I am hungry : I am thirsty. 
Give me dinner. 
„ supper. 

„ breakfast. 
Is there fresh meat. 

5, salt meat. 

5, ham or bacon. 

5, fish, 
egg^. 

„ potatoes. 

„ wheaten bread. 
Give us whatever you have. 
Give me oat-cake and butter. 

„ milk and cream. 

„ old cheese. 

„ oatmeal porridge. 

„ coffee. 

„ sugar, 
tea. 



Kan Jeg faa noget at Spise ? 
Jeg er sulten : Jeg er torstig. 
Giv mig Mid- dags Mad. 
„ Nat Mad (or Aftens 

Mad). 
„ Trokost. 
Er der Kjod ? 
„ riesk. 
„ Skinke. 
„ risk. 

-Eg. 
5, Potates. 
„ Hvede Brod 
Giv Os hvad De har. 
Giv mig Plad-brod og Smor. 
„ Melk og Plode. 
3, Gammel Ost. 
5, Brod. 
„ Kaffee. 
„ Sukker. 
„ Thee. 



AT AN li^K; OR EESTIKa PLACE. 



433 



Give me brandy. 

white wine. • 
beer, 
salt, 
pepper, 
mustard. 
Bring me a knife and fork, 
spoon, 
plate, 
cup. 
glass. 
Chair. 
Table. 
Kettle. 
Pot. 

Irying-pan. 

The fire, (provincial.) 

To boil. 

To frj. 

Immediately. 

Quickly, (provincial.) 

Slow. 

Eeady. 

Clean. 

Dirty. 

Nothing. 

Not. 

Yes; No. 

And ; or. 

In ; with. 

From here ; to. 

Much ; more. 

Little. 

To get. 

To procure. 

To walk ; to ride. 

Take away. 

To fetch. 

Come here. 

Husband. 

Wife. 



Giv mig Ersendeviin. 
Hviid Yiin. 
01. 
Salt. 
Peber. 
Sennep. 
Skaf mig en Kniv og Gafiel. 
„ Skee. 
„ Tallerken. 

Kop. 
5, Glas. 

Stoel. 

Bord. 

Kjedel. 

Gryde. 

Stege-pande. 

Varme. 

Eoge. 

Stege. 

Strax. 

Snart. 

Langsom, 

Fserdig. 

Eeen. 

Smudsig. 

Intet. 

Ikke. ^ 

Ja; nei. 

Og; eller. 

I ; med. 

Herfra; til. 

Meget; mere. 

Lidet. 

Paae. 

SkafFe. 

Spadsere; ride. 
Tage bort. 
Hente. 
Kom her. 
Mand. 
Eone. 

2 r 2 



434 



AT AK ON, OE BESTING PLACE. 



Son. 

Daughter. 

Boy. 

Girl. 

Children. 

Servant. 

Interpreter. 

Can I sleep here to-night ? 
Can I have a night's lodging? 
Are our rooms ready ? 
Is my bed made ? 
Sheets ; coverlid ; pillow. 
Washing-bason ; soap. 
Bring some water. 

„ a towel. 

„ a candle. 
Put wood on the fire ; stove. 
Shut the door. 
Open the window\ 
Clean my boots. 
"Wake me early to-morrow. 
To rest. 

To be sick or ill. 
To lie down. 
Sleep well ! 

What have we to pay ? 
Give me the bill. 
Eight. 

Here is the money. 
Change money. 
The bill is too high. 
Extravagant. 

One dollar three marks is 

enough. 
I will not pay more. 



Son. 

Datter. 

Dreng. 

Pige. 

Born. 

Tjener. 

Tolk. 

Kan leg ligge her In at ? 
Kan leg faae Natte Quarteer? 
Ere vore Vaerelser istand ? 
Er min Seng redet ? 
Lagener ; Teppe ; Pude. 
Vaske-boUe; Ssebe. 
Skaf mig Vand (vulgar, 

Vatteri) . 
Haandklsede. 
Lys (a light). 
Laeg Brsende paa Eyren. 
Luk Doren til. 
Aaben Vinduet. 
Borst mine Stovler. 
Vsek mig tidlig imorgen. 
Hvile. 
Blivesyg. 
Ligge. 
Sov godt !| 

Hvad have vi at betale ? 
Giv mig Eegningen. 
Eigtig. 

Her ere Pengene. 
Vexle Penge. 
Eegningen er for hoi. 
Ubillig. 

En Daler og tre Mark ere 

tilstrsekkelig. 
leg vil ikke betale mere. 



S. At a Station and on the Soad. 



Station-master. 
Post-boy. 



Skyds-skaffer. 
Skyds-karl. 



AT A STATION, AKD ON THE EOAD. 



435 



Station-in aster's fee (4 sk. 

for each horse). 
Drink-monej (to the boy, acl 

lihituni) . 
"Where is the Day-book ? 
Pen ; ink. 
Paper ; letter. 
The stage. 

How much must I pay for 

each horse ? 
I will have three horses. 
Where do we change horses? 
How many miles is it from 

here to ? 

Is there a good inn on the 

road ? 

Is the road good ; hilly ? 

Middling good ; flat. 

Easy road ; heavy road. 

Shew us the way. 

I will travel on horseback. 

Can I get a horse directly ? 

Presently ; toute a Vlieure. 

I have but little luggage. 

Car (or cart). 

Carriage (generally). 

Axle-tree. 

Shafts. 

Spring. 

Wheel. 

Wheel screw. 

Grease. 

Whip. 

Harness. 

Saddle. 

Girth. 

Bridle. 

Stirrups. 

Horse-shoe. 

Portmanteau. 

Box. 



Tilsigelse-penge. 

Drikke-penge. 

Hvor er Dag Bogen ? 
Pen ; Bl^ek. 
Papiir ; Brev. 
Skiftet. 

Hvor meget skal jeg bet ale 

for hver Hest ? 
Jeg skal have tre Heste. 
Hvor skifter man Heste ? 
Hvor mange Mile er det 

herfra til ? 

Pindes gode Gjestg'iver- 

steder paa Veien ? 
Er Veien god ; bakket ? 
Meget god ; flad. 
Let Vei ; tung Vei. 
Viis OS Veien. 

Jeg vil gjore Eeisen til Hest. 

Kan jeg iaae en Hest strax ? 

En-tima. (provincial.) 

Jeg har kun ubetydeligt Toi. 

Sky ds-kj sere. 

Vogn. 

Axel. 

Armene. 

Ejeder. 

Hjul. 

Skru Nogle 

Smor. 

Svobe. 

Sele. 

Sadel. 

Sadelgjord. 

Bidsel. 

Stigboile. 

Heste-skoe. 

KofFert; Vadssek. 

Kasse. 



436 



AT A STATION, AND ON THE EOAB. 



Bag. 

Strap. 

Buckle. 

String. 

To tie. 

To fasten. 

Is there a ferry ? 

Is there no boat here ? 

Can you procure me a boat ? 

With two rowers. 

Put my carriage on board. 

Carefully. 

The wind is high. 

contrary. 
Is there any danger ? 
The horses were ordered for 

three o'clock. 
Where are the horses ? 
Drive on. 

The horse is lame. 

A clever (active) horse. 

Tou must drive fast, or I 

shall be late. 
Shall we have fine weather ? 
What town is that ? 

mountain-range ; hill. 
What do you call that river ? 
Water; lake. 
E/Ock ; waterfall. 
The country. - 
Pield. 
Cornfield. 
Meadow. 
Grass. 
Hay. 
Wheat. 
Eye. 
Barley. 
Oats. 
Cattle. 



S^k. 

Eem; Strop. 
Spsende. 
Snor. 
Binde. 

Tseste ; ssette fast. 
Er der nogen Fserge ? 
Pindes ingen Baad her ? 
Kan man skafie mig en Baad ? 
Med et Par Eoer-Karle. 
Tag min Vogn ombord. 
Vser forsigtig. 
Vinden er stserk. 

contrari. 
Er der nogen Fare ? 
Hestene vare bestilte til 

klokken tre. 
Hvor ere Hestene ? 
Kjorr til ! skynd paa ! 

Erem ! 
Hesten er halt. 
En rask Hest. 

Hu maa kjore fort ellers 

kommer J eg for sildig. 
Skal-vi have smukt Veier ? 
Hvilken By er det ? 

Ejeld; Bakke. 
Hvad kalder Du denne Elv ? 
Vand ; Soe. 
Bjerg ; Eoss. 
Landet. 
Mark. 
Ager. 
Eng. 
Grges. 
Ho. 
Hvede. 
Eug. 

Byg. 

Havre. 

Creature. 



OIT THE EOAD. — FISHINa AKD SHOOTIITG. 



Cow. 


Kg. 


Sheep. 


Paar. 


Pig. 


Sviin. 


Dog. 


Hund. 


Wood or forest. 


Skov. 


Tree, piece of wood. 


Tr^. 


Stick. 


Stok. 


Bircli. 


Birk. 


Ash. 


Ask. 


Scotch fir (pinus sylvestris). 


Purii. 


Spruce fir {pinus abies). 


Gran. 


Plowers. 


Blomster. 


Parm-house. 


Gaard. 


Barn. 


Lade. 


Dairy hut {clialei). 


Sseter. 


Parsonage. 


Prseste-gaard. 


A mother-church. 


En Hoved-Kirke. 


A church attached. 


En Annex-Kirke. 



4. FisTiing and Shooting, 



Eishing-rod. 

Eishing-line. 

Eeel. 

Hook. 

Ely. 

Artificial fly. 

Boat. 

Oar. 

Eower. 

Drawing net. 

Small net. 

Salmon. 

Trout. 

G-rayling. 

Pike. 

Gun. 

Eifle. 

Gunpowder. 

Shot. 

Bullet. 



Eiske-stang. 

Eiske-snor. 

Snelle. 

Angel; Krog. 
Elue. 

Elue-angel; Elue-krog. 

Baad. 

Aare. 

Eoers-karl. 
Nset. 
Garn. 
Lax. 

Eorelle; Orret. 

gyk. 

Gjedde. 

Skydegevser; Gevser. 

Eiffel. 

Krudt. 

Haglepose. 

Kule. 



438 SHOOTING. — ARTICLES OF DEESS, &C. 



Eeindeer. 

Elk. 

Bear. 

¥ox. 

Wolf. 

Hare. 

Bird. 

Capercailzee. 
Black cock. 
Ptarmigan. 
Hazel hen. 
Plover. 
Snipe. 



Eensdyr. 

Elsdyr. 

Bjorn. 

Ulv. 
Hare. 
- Fugl. 

Tiur. 

TJrliane. 

Eype. 

Hjerpe. 

Vandhone. 

Sneppe. 

5. Articles of Dress, Sfc. 



Coat. 

Overcoat. 

Trowsers. 

Hat. 

Cap. 

Pocket. 

Shirt. 

Handkerchief. 

Boots. 

Shoes. 

Gloves. 

Socks. 

To wash. 

To iron. 

To mend, (patch.) 

To buy. 

To sell. 

Needle. 

Scissors. 

Thread. 

Button.' ; 



Kjole; Prak. 

Over-kjole. 

Beenklseder. 

Hat. 

Hue. 

Lomme. 

Skjorte. 

Handtorklsede. 

Stovler. 

Skoe. 

Handsker. 

Stromper. 

Vadske. 

Stryge. 

Lappe. 

Kjobe. 

Sselge. 

Synaal. 

Sax. 

Traad. 

Enap. 



439 



SECTION VI. 



SHOOTING AND ANGLING IN NORWAY. 

Makt Englishmen resort to Norway every year for 
shooting and fly-fishing ; particularly the latter. Inclosures 
and cultivation, a crowded population, exclusive rights, and 
the enormous rents required for moors, deer-forests, and 
fishings within the British islands, compel them to seek 
fields where game is more abundant and there is freer 
action. The wild character of the greater part of the 
surface of Norway, its innumerable lakes and rivers, and 
vast forests and Fjelds, combined with increasing facilities 
of communication, have naturally attracted them to a 
country offering such advantages to the lovers of sport. 
Some whose expectations were too highly raised have been 
disappointed ; a few only have carried off the great prizes. 
Some causes of this disappointment will become apparent in 
the course of the following observations, intended prin- 
cipally for tourists proposing for the first time to engage in 
a sporting excursion to Norway, and wishing to learn some- 
thing of its capabilities. Clever and amusing books have 
been witten on different branches of the subject, which may 
be consulted with advantage by those who desire to prepare 
themselves carefully for their enterprise. To a compendium 
of the most useful information contained in such works, 
some hints and suggestions may here be added, as the 
result of personal observations and of communications from 
persons of experience in both countries. 

Beginning, as usual, with a word of caution to inex- 
perienced travellers in Norway, it may be suggested to the 
tourist, that, though he may be a fair shot or a practised 



440 



HIKTS TO SPOETSMETiT. 



angler, lie had better relinquisli all idea of combining sucb 
pursuits with his travels, unless he is disposed to make 
them his principal object. Grame is not so plentiful in 
Norway that it can be knocked down by the roadside, or on 
a casual halt in the stages of a tour ; and, though almost 
every lake and river abound with trout, salmon-fishing in 
perfection is confined to some particular rivers, and very 
brief opportunities. Travellers remark how very few birds 
of the commonest kind are seen in Norway, while deer 
are only to be found in the depths of the forests and on 
the high Fjelds. It is from false and exaggerated impres- 
sions on this subject that disappointment has arisen. The 
sportsman and angler will probably traverse a great extent 
of country, and have peculiar opportunities of becoming 
familiar with the wildest scenes, but this object must be 
secondary to his main purpose, which will be found to 
demand great devotion of time, as well as much perseverance 
and sometimes great hardihood. Besides, no one can take 
the field, or try his luck on the waters, in Norway, with any 
hope of success, unless he is furnished with an outfit which, 
in the one case, is weighty, and in both peculiarly exposed to 
accidents in travelling through such a country. The tourist, 
therefore, must not fancy that he can add the enjoyment 
of a few days' shooting or salmon-fishing to the pleasure 
he proposes himself in atrip to Norway, unless he has leisure 
to devote at least a week or ten days to these pursuits at 
some suitable station, and is properly equipped for them, 
as well as prepared to encumber himself with the necessary 
implements of his sport during the rest of his journey. He 
is therefore recommended not even to burthen himself with 
a fowling-piece. A common fishing-rod for trout, if his 
tastes be that way inclined, will be no great incumbrance, 
and may often furnish him with an hour's amusement, as 
well as supply a meal for which he would otherwise be at 
a loss. 

SHOOTiisra. 

Of grouse, the birds most interesting to sportsmen, there 
are several varieties in Norway, many of which are found 
in great abundance. The wood-grouse, capercailie, or cock 



snooTiNa. 



441 



of fhe wood {Tiur), a noble bird, of the size of a turkey, is 
met with, in all tbe pine forests, but seldom in any great 
numbers, and more in the northern than the western dis- 
tricts. They are shot in the trees by the peasants in a most 
unsportmanlike manner in the close season, despite of the 
game laws. The black-cock {Urhane) lies in the higher 
pine-forests and the birch-woods to the verge of the open 
Fjelds, which also harbour the hazel hen {Sjerpe), the 
most delicately flavoured of Norwegian birds. The white 
grouse is found in the upper birch- woods at the height of 
from three to four thousand feet. This variety is distinct 
from the red grouse of the British islands {Tetrao Scoticus), 
which is unknown in JN'orway, Osterdalen (Eoute 20) and 
Land and Aadalen, in Walders (E/Oute 16) abound with birds 
of the wood. The Ptarmigan {Bype) is not preserved by 
law. It is to be met with everywhere on the open Pjelds 
where it subsists on the berries of the Alpine plants ; but a 
Norwegian naturalist has informed us that they are found in 
most unequal numbers in different years, and are most 
common on the more level tracts in the ^'Amts " of Nordland 
and Finmarken, when they are somewhat overgrown with 
shrubbery of the birch-tree. Plover are seen everywhere 
on the upland moors, where they rise under your feet, 
startling you with their plaintive cries. The ptarmigan is a 
stupid bird, flying but a short distance and perching among 
the grey rocks of the high Pjelds. The cock of the wood 
and other birds of the forest cannot be found without 
dogs. A good treatise on these birds appeared in the last 
numbers of the "Illustrated Christiania News," 1852. 

Partridges are only found at some places in the south of 
Norway. Wild fowl of every description are plentiful on 
the west coast, and numbers of woodcocks about the great 
Fjords of those districts. Snipes are to be met with where- 
ever the ground is suitable. At the end of August or 
beginning of September, there are immense numbers of 
them at the northern extremity of the Ojeren-vand, about 
fifteen English miles from Christiania, and close to the new 
railway ; and also at the head of the Hitterdals-vand, and in 
Lower Tellemarken. (Route 4.) These are also good places 
for shooting wild ducks. Hares are found everywhere ; 
in some places in great abundance, particularly in the 



41-2 



DEER-STALE:i:N"a. 



island of Smolen near Christiansund (Eoute 11), in which 
there are also plenty of ptarmigan and some red-deer. The 
white hare {Lepus JBorealis) is we believe common ; but we 
have never been fortunate enough to see one, except in the 
specimens preserved in the museums of Norway. A couple 
of well-bred setters are the best dogs to take on a sporting 
excursion in Norway ; they will do all the work required 
either in the forest or on the Fjeld. They should be used 
to feed on barley-bread, and may be conveniently conveyed 
in a strong net lashed under a carriole. The arm should be 
a good double barrel-gun, with a large bore for bullets if 
they are required. The sportsman should carry a sufficient 
stock of powder and ammunition, carefully packed, as well 
as his guns, in waterproof cases to secure them from damage 
by getting wet. 



DEER-STALKINa. 

Porthls most exciting of all European field-sports, the 
bold and hardy sportsman has greater scope in Norway 
than in any other country, except perhaps among the 
chamois hunters in the Tyrolese mountains, or the higher 
Alps. The elk, {Ms-dyr) the an tiered monarch of the 
North, is extinct throughout the greater part of Norway, 
but is still found in the eastern districts of Hedemarken, 
particularly in the parishes of Osterdalen, Soloer, and 
Loiten. (Eoute 20). There are some also in the forests in 
Land, in the southern part of the county of Walders, and in 
the commons of Aadalen. (Eoute 16.) By late accounts 
they seem to be spreading still more to the westward, and as 
there is a heavy fine for killing an elk out of season, it may 
be hoped that this noble animal will not be entirely extir- 
pated by the peasants. Mr. Asbjornsen has written va- 
luable essays on the elk and reindeer, published in the 
" Christiania Illustrated News." 

Eed-deer, in any considerable numbers, are now almost 
exclusively confined to the islands on the west coast, par- 
ticularly the large island of Hitteroen, off the Trondhjem 
Pjord, and that of Smolen near Christiansund. Some 
are, however, still left on the continent of Norway about 



DEER-STALKINa. 



443 



the Sond-fjord and JNTord-fjord, in Eomsdal, Sondmor 
and Nordmor (Eoute 21), as well as about the grounds 
of Lysekloster (the convent of Lyse), in the Bergenstift. 
(Eoiite 5.) 

Eeindeer (Bensdyr) abound on the higher Fjelds, at and 
about the snow level, in every part of Norway ; the long 
chain of mountains, in particular, which lie between 
Trondhjem and the Bergenstift being their proper liahitat. 
Their best range is perhaps on the plateau of the Tjeld 
between Fortun and Lorn. (Route 8.) They are also seen in 
great numbers on the high Fjelds above Juste dalen, and 
between Opdal, Lesjo, and Eomsdalen. (Eoute 21.) The 
boundless plateau of the Har danger Fjeld affords them 
secure retreats, and they may be found more readily on its 
eastern flank near Lier and Argehovd at the northern 
extremity of the Mjos-vand. In Nordland and Finmarken 
they rarely appear, but they are met with on the Dovre- 
Pjeld (Eoute 17), as well as on the Eille-Pjeld. (Eoute 16.) 
A still better place to find them in numbers is the Eundane- 
Ejeld (The Bounds), a branch of the Dovre-Ejeld dividing 
Gulbrandsdalen and Osterdalen. Mr. Belton gives an 
interesting account of an excursion among the snowy peaks 
of this Fjeld in pursuit of the reindeer. — "Two Summers in 
Norway," vol. i., p. 158. 

The reindeer being very shy, and ranging over the vast 
solitudes of these high Norwegian alps, at an elevation of 
from four to five thousand feet, the stalking them requires 
considerable powers of endurance as well as great activity ; 
while it is an enterprise which will amply repay the sports- 
man who is possessed of these qualifications, and no others 
would of course attempt it. The best stations for the 
resting-place and depot are Eortun (Eoute 8) ; Veblungs- 
nsDset (Eoute 21) ; Hjserkin (Eoute 17) ; and Eeien or 
Nystuen (Eoute 16). At these places experienced hunters 
can be obtained as guides ; provisions must also be procured, 
and arrangements made for spending, probably, several 
nights on the Ejeld. In this case, there is no resource but 
to obtain shelter in the nearest "Iseger," or huntsman's hut, 
which is nothing more than four walls of loose stones with 
flat ones for the roof ; but as even these are not always to 
be reached, Captain Biddulph recommends deer-stalkers on 



4M BEASTS AND BIEDS OF PREY. 

the Fjeld to be provided witli a light tent. See the post- 
script to " Norway in 1848-9/' which may be consulted 
with advantage for general directions on this subject. It 
may be added that, for deer-stalking on the Tjeld, dogs are 
quite useless, except perhaps a lurcher, to secure a wounded 
deer. The best arm is a two-grooved rifle, 14-bore, with 
a double or single barrel according to the sportsman's 
strength, the double barrel being of course the most ser- 
viceable. The guide must not be allowed to carry a gun ; 
but two good telescopes should be provided, with one of 
which he should be furnished. The reindeer may perhaps 
be stalked to within sixty yards, or it may not be possible, as 
they are very wild, to get a shot at them nearer than two 
hundred yards; and it may take many hours and even days to 
follow the trail, Dyr-schacTc, over the snow till the herd is 
found. The sportsman — no one indeed in a wild country, 
should omit carrying a small compass in his waistcoat 
pocket. His dress should not be of a conspicuous colour : 
the cap, jacket, and trowsers beiag of shepherds' plaid, or 
any black-and-white mixture. 



ANIMALS OT" PEEY. 

Eears are to be found in most parts of Norway, but 
hunting them is seldom successful except in the latter part 
of autumn, with the assistance of good deer dogs, and in 
spring, by placing carrion in the forest, and shooting them 
from a tree or a log hut ; a common practice requiring no 
extraordinary courage. It is far otherwise, and very dan- 
gerous, to face them single handed, as Mr. Lloyd was in the 
habit of doing. See his work on " The Keld Sports of the 
North." Wolves, which also abound, are generally hunted 
in winter, and when the snow is deep, on skates. The 
gaupe, a species of lynx, is found in the wilder forest 
districts. Standing about two feet high and five long, and 
strongly made, it is a far more formidable animal than the 
wolf, and is hunted with dogs. The beaver is still found in 
Norway, but having become nearly extinct, killing them is 
prohibited during a term of years, two of which are yet 
unexpired. They are only to be seen at present in Lower 



SALMOJf riSHING. 



445 



Telemarten and Eaabjgdelauget, but it is said tbat they 
are also to be found on the Swedish frontier. The glutton, 
an animal of strange uncouth appearance, allied to the 
marten by the teeth and head, but with feet approaching in 
character those of the bear, is to be found generally through- 
out the country. The western districts of JN'orway abound 
in noble birds of prey — the golden eagle, the sea-eagle, the 
osprey, the jer-falcon, or Icelandic falcon, so famous in olden 
time. The peregrine-falcon is common in most parts of the 
country. 

Sahnon. — There are scarcely any of the innumerable rivers 
of Norway, of proper size, which salmon do not enter, and 
they would doubtless all be even better supplied than they 
are with this noble fish, if it were not for the falls near the 
mouths of many of the largest rivers, which prevent the 
salmon from ascending on their annual passage from the sea 
to their spawning beds ; thus stopping their passage also to 
the thousand streams which feed the larger rivers. Another 
limit to the success of the angler in a country so intersected 
with rivers and streams, is the very short season during 
which the waters are in a proper state ; for they are ren- 
dered turbid by the melting of the snow on the !Fjelds in 
the early part of summer, and are often again disturbed by 
the breaking up of the ice in the mountain lakes at a later 
period. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, English anglers 
have met with splendid success in salmon fishing in Norway. 
The Namsen, north of Trondhjem (Eoutes 12 and 17), has 
long been considered the best of the Norwegian rivers, and 
next to it the Alton river, near Hammerfest. (Eoute 13.) 
They may also be reached by the coast steam-boats, for 
w^hich see the Tables subjoined. These favourite waters are, 
however, so frequented by first-rate English anglers, that 
the best fishings are rented by gentlemen who make regular 
visits to them every year. Others are generally pre-engaged 
for the season ; while the demands of the farmers who claim 
rights on the banks of the rivers, particularly the Namsen, 
are most exorbitant. Next to these, the Gruul-elv, which 



M6 



SALMON riSHINa. 



flows into the Fjord near Trondhjem, is, perhaps, the Lest 
salmon stream in Norway. There are, besides, the ISTid-elv, 
also flowing into the Trondhj em-Fjord, and the Orke, in 
Orkedalen, on the road to Molde. (Eoute 10.) Further 
south, we have the Eauma-elv, the fine river which takes its 
course through Eomsdal, for which the station is Veblungs- 
nseset (Route 21), before mentioned as good quarters for 
deer stalking ; and the Driva-elv, below Drivstuen. (Eoute 
17.) On the road to Bergen the Lierdals-elv is recom- 
mended, and salmon have been taken in one or two of the 
rivers which fall into the Bergen Fjord; but the rivers on this 
part of the west coast are generally too short in their course, 
and too near the Fjelds, to allow of good salmon fishing. 
Incomparably the best salmon river in the south of Norway, 
and perhaps the second in all Scandinavia, is the Laagen-elv, 
near Laurvig. (Eoute 14.) There are also the Drammen 
river, in the same neighbourhood, and the Mandals-elv, near 
Christiansand, and no doubt there is fair fishing in some of 
the rivers between Mandal and Stavanger. (Eoute 1.) These 
southern rivers should be first tried by tourists who are 
bent on a fishing excursion to the north, as the water in 
them is clear at least a fortnight earlier. 

The observations in Section 1, respecting landing at some 
point on the south coast, are especially worthy of notice by 
those who take this course. As the Laagen-elv just men- 
tioned is much resorted to by English anglers, it is very 
possible that the new comer may find there the same ob- 
stacles from pre-occupation which he will almost surely 
meet with on the Namsen, Alton, and Guul, the still more 
frequented rivers of the north of the kingdom. A new 
comer will sometimes be viewed with jealousy by expe- 
rienced anglers, who are apprehensive of any interference 
with their favourite waters ; and he will probably be dis- 
couraged by unfavourable accounts of rivers, which either 
have not been fairly tried, or the reporters wish to reserve 
for their own amusement. But let him not despair. 
The other rivers enumerated, and doubtless many more, 
as yet untried, which by luck or skill he may make his 
own, enjoying the first fruits of his discovery, will satisfy 
any moderate expectations he may form. The times are 
probably gone by when from 2000 to 3000 pounds' weight of 



TEOUT riSHING. 



M7 



salmon could be taken by a single rod, in one river, and in a 
short season ; but those who are not gluttons in their sport 
may well be content with a success far inferior as to 
quantity. 

The difference between fishing in strictly preserved waters, 
instead of taking the chances of new or more open rivers, 
seems to be something like that between a hattue in well- 
stocked woods, and shooting over a rough and wild country; 
between counting the "head" of game bagged in a day's 
sport, instead of reckoning, with a more generous feeling, 
the less palpable returns of a field which has put the sports- 
man's skill and powers of endurance to a severer test. 
Anglers will also recollect that by the rules of their art, 
success depends upon the state of the weather and the 
water, and they must not hastily decide against a promising 
river, because, at a particular period, the salmon will not 
rise to the fly, or because others have met with a similar 
disapp oint m ent . 

It was formerly the general custom of English anglers in 
Korway to give all the fish they took, beyond w^hat they 
required for their own consumption, to the occupiers of the 
land on the bank of the river from which they fished, and in 
unfrequented parts of the country this acknowledgment of 
the owner's rights may still suffice. But the system of 
demanding money payments for permission to angle has 
been gradually extending itself, and the demands made in 
this way are frequently most extortionate. 

Trout Fishing, — It would be vain to attempt to parti- 
cularise the thousand rivers and lakes of Korway, most of 
which contain trout, more or less plentifully. Moderately 
sized streams and lakes are by far the best for the angler ; 
but waters discoloured by the melting of the snow are even 
more unfavourable to trout than to salmon fishing. The 
heaviest trout will invariably be found lying at the foot of 
falls, especially if they are situated a little above an exten- 
sive lake. Below the Hund-Poss, between Lillehammer and 
Moshuus (Eoute 17), trout are occasionally taken of thirty 
pounds weight, and commonly of fifteen to eighteen. Sir 
Humphrey Davy caught a great many sea-trout in the rivers 
between Mandal, Christiansand, and Arendal. The Vor- 
men-elv, near the new railroad station at Minde, is full of 

2 a 



448 FISHIKG TACKLE. — GAME LAWS. 

trout, and the small lake near Nystuen on the Fille-Fjeld 
(Route 16), abounds with fish of the colour of a salmon, and 
of exquisite flavour. The district of Telemarken, round the 
Gousta-Fjeld (Eoute 4), is also celebrated, not only for the 
picturesqueness of its scenery, but for the excellence and 
abundance of its trout. 

The principal fishing-tackle makers in London are now so 
well acquainted with what is required by an angler for the 
ISTorwegian rivers, that they may be referred to for what is 
best adapted to the purpose ; nothing of the sort can be 
procured in Norway. Everything for salmon fishing should 
be of the best quality, the rods and lines of the strongest, 
with large flies ; brilliant and decided colours being the 
most killing. Messrs. Jones and Co., of Jermyn Street, 
St. James's, and other tradesmen in that line, are in con- 
stant communication with first-rate English anglers con- 
nected with JSTorway, and their information may be depended 
on. Mr. Jones has printed a little work, adapted to its 
title : " The Salmon Eisher's Pocket Companion;" and there 
is also a work published at Drammen, by Mr. Hutchinson, 
an English angler, resident there, under the title of " Elue- 
fiskeriets Anveldelies Norge," " The Practice of Ely Eishers 
in Norway," which may be useful to those who have ob- 
tained some knowledge of the language ; while Mr. Belton's 
entertaining and instructive volumes, " Two Summers in 
Norway," convey in a most agreeable manner much and 
varied information on this subject. 



CAME LAWS. 

By an Ordinance of the Storthing, dated 4th August, 
1845, the following restrictions and penalties are enacted 
for the preservation of game. 

Elk and red deer can only be shot between 1st August 
and the 1st November ; the penalty for illegally killing an elk 
being 40 sp. d. {91.), and for red deer 20 sp. d. Eeindeer 
are not suflered to be killed between 1st April and 1st 
August ; the penalty being 10 sp. d. Hares are protected 
from 1st June till 15th August, under a penalty of 2 sp. d. 
Capercailie, black cock, and hazel hens are not to be killed 

-0 



GAME LAWS. 



449 



from 1st April to 15tli August. Water-fowl, except birds 
of passage, are forbidden to be killed in spring, between 
1st April and 1st July ; the penalty being 1 sp. d. The 
penalties are to be recovered by information lodged with 
the district officer, which the offender is summoned to 
answer, when he may at once pay the fine, or disputing it, 
will be heard in answer to the charge. One-half of the 
penalties go to the informer, the other to the poor. They 
can little affect the English sportsman, as it is not very 
likely that he will be shooting in Norway in the close 
season, or that the fines would be rigorously enforced 
against him in the wild districts, to which he would pro- 
bably resort. 



THE END. 



2 G 2 



PRINTED BY HARRISON AND SONS, 
LONDON GAZETTE OFFICE, ST. MARTINIS LANE. 



